Mazda - Made in Mexico Oil Filters are Faulty

A machine "punches" this louvers into the metal filter housing. The oil then flows through these louvers into the filter element to be filtered. The lack of quality control shows that this punch did not fully open up the louvers and the few that did open, the slit opening was very tiny.

Could be just a fluke on mine or maybe the production run created hundreds or thousands of these faulty filters, that is unknown. Will your engine fail when running this filter? Most likely not but it will damage it depending on how many miles you run this filter and what type of debris will get bypassed and pushed back into the engine. Debris could end up scoring the bearings or getting caught into a lifter or something, causing problems many miles later.

The Made in Thailand has punched circular holes, not louvered, but it is clear that these holes are open and allow a lot of oil flow to get into the filter element. Louvered punches are okay AS LONG as they are punched correctly, allowing oil flow. This filter was not punched correctly and it was never inspected, except by me.
 
Try your dealer, just ask. Two Mazda dealers around me seem to have an endless supply.
 
I think this is being blown out of proportion.

I'm nearly certain that what you actually seeing is an alternating pattern of louvers: one punched up and one punched down. This would explain why some of them look "closed."

While you'll get no disagreement from me that single, straight circular punches are higher flowing, Mazda has to stake their warranty on these louvers flowing appropriately for 5yr/60k miles. As such, you aren't going to damage the longevity of your engine using this filter for a single oil change.
 
A machine "punches" this louvers into the metal filter housing. The oil then flows through these louvers into the filter element to be filtered. The lack of quality control shows that this punch did not fully open up the louvers and the few that did open, the slit opening was very tiny.

Could be just a fluke on mine or maybe the production run created hundreds or thousands of these faulty filters, that is unknown. Will your engine fail when running this filter? Most likely not but it will damage it depending on how many miles you run this filter and what type of debris will get bypassed and pushed back into the engine. Debris could end up scoring the bearings or getting caught into a lifter or something, causing problems many miles later.

The Made in Thailand has punched circular holes, not louvered, but it is clear that these holes are open and allow a lot of oil flow to get into the filter element. Louvered punches are okay AS LONG as they are punched correctly, allowing oil flow. This filter was not punched correctly and it was never inspected, except by me.
While I agree the Thailand filters seem better, i was under impression oil flowed through/out the louvers into center shaft? Or is the Mazda engine designed differently? I would think if the oil went into filter and couldn't get out/that it would backup and create pressure in system?

Wouldn't that set off an engine code ?
I don't know, i'm asking.
 
... i was under impression oil flowed through/out the louvers into center shaft?....
You're right. Oil enters the filter through the six (in this particular filter) large holes in the end plate surrounding the threaded hole.

If it were otherwise, a filter with an anti-drainback valve would prevent any oil from leaving the filter, immediately starving the engine of oil and destroying the bearings.

Mazda filters don't have an anti-drainback valve, but most aftermarket filters do, and using one of them does not cause oil starvation.
 
Speaking of oil. When I do an oil & filter change on my 2017 CX5, manual states 5 quarts. When 5 quarts are poured in, the oil level ends up on the middle of the dipstick range between the two hole punches. Basically 1/2 way between the 2 holes.

When I put in 5.25 quarts it, the oil is just below the 2nd punched hole on the dipstick.

Is there any negative issue with running the oil just below the 2nd hole on the dipstick? It's still within the operating range.
 
Speaking of oil. When I do an oil & filter change on my 2017 CX5, manual states 5 quarts. When 5 quarts are poured in, the oil level ends up on the middle of the dipstick range between the two hole punches. Basically 1/2 way between the 2 holes.

When I put in 5.25 quarts it, the oil is just below the 2nd punched hole on the dipstick.

Is there any negative issue with running the oil just below the 2nd hole on the dipstick? It's still within the operating range.
Nope. 5 quarts is never enough. always need the extra 1/4 quart.
Several members add extra as the manuals wrong. I think the manual capacity was designed for quick changes... Dealers, and jiffy lubes want to get in and out...hence not all oil is drained out before refill. Most DIY, leave it sit and drain hence 5.1 quarts to 5.2 quarts is needed. F.i my manual says 4.8 quarts but I always need about 5.1 quarts.
 
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Nope. 5 quarts is never enough. always need the extra 1/4 quart.
Several members add extra as the manuals wrong. I think the manual capacity was designed for quick changes... Dealers, and jiffy lubes want to get in and out...hence not all oil is drained out before refill. Most DIY, leave it sit and drain hence 5.1 quarts to 5.2 quarts is needed. F.i my manual says 4.8 quarts but I always need about 5.1 quarts.

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Obviously, if you have a preference to fill to the max line, you may need more oil. I think most would agree that being too close to the min mark is unacceptable. Usually I fill to at least halfway between the holes and it's perfect for 8000km OCIs. But we're getting off topic at this point. We do have other threads that cover this topic if you guys want to continue the conversation there.
 

Usually I fill to at least halfway between the holes and it's perfect for 8000km OCIs.
Provided your engine doesn’t use any oil. Or you want to fill the oil to the Max mark like every other fluids for better safety margin.
 
Geez, this thread just made me go check my recently purchased filters :oops:. Looks like my dealer sold me the made in Thailand filters. Phew!
 
Mazda will say there's nothing wrong with that filter. If there is a ''louver' there is a hole. Each row bends in opposite direction.
 
Interesting discussion. Is there any evidence of failure using the MV filters? Any evidence oil flow is restricted by using them? Tough to see Mazda denying a warranty claim using a filter with their brand name stamped on it and it being a recommended filter For the 2.5l engine. If there were failures, Mazda would have pulled them, but they’ve been around for a while now and continue to be used.

here’s a dealer selling them on Amazon.

Mazda 3, 6, CX-5 & CX-3 New OEM Skyactiv Value Line 6 Oil Filters PE01-14-302AMV w/Drain Plug Gaskets https://a.co/d/cTZmdsT
 
Interesting discussion. Is there any evidence of failure using the MV filters? Any evidence oil flow is restricted by using them? Tough to see Mazda denying a warranty claim using a filter with their brand name stamped on it and it being a recommended filter For the 2.5l engine. If there were failures, Mazda would have pulled them, but they’ve been around for a while now and continue to be used.

here’s a dealer selling them on Amazon.

Mazda 3, 6, CX-5 & CX-3 New OEM Skyactiv Value Line 6 Oil Filters PE01-14-302AMV w/Drain Plug Gaskets https://a.co/d/cTZmdsT
Sadly, only the Mazda engineers know the answer.

Does the MV filter limit oil flow to the point it's problematic on the engine in the long term(maybe after the warranty expired) ?
* While I agree I don't see them using filters that would increase warranty claims, maybe the adverse effects occur long term for those of us who keep our vehicles 10-12 plus years?

Or maybe it's backwards... Maybe the MV filter with it's smaller louvered holes helps pressurize the system better. Maybe the Thailand and Japanese filters are obsolete perhaps?

Or was it merely a cost-cutting move but both filters work equally the same?

It begs the question though...
Why 3 different filters???
 
It’s considered a value filter so my guess is it’s cost cutting, and they are a little cheaper. But as you suggest, does it matter and why would Mazda engineer aninferior filter to the point it causes damage.

i might be wrong, but it looks like these filters may have been around about 10 years, which would be plenty of time to identify any issues and pull them if there were.
 
Mazda North America most likely. For me its the first time I see different oem filters sold by the dealers. At least I dont know of any other brand that does it.
In Europe they have not even heard of MV line or even the smaller Thai filter. Its only Japanese and thats it for oem. Its ironic because even the Thai filter is smaller diameter and can be clearly seen on the attachment surface, there is exposed metal visible around the filter. I was surprised the first time I changed my oil but then thanks to the forum I found the reason.
 
It’s considered a value filter so my guess is it’s cost cutting, and they are a little cheaper. But as you suggest, does it matter and why would Mazda engineer aninferior filter to the point it causes damage.

i might be wrong, but it looks like these filters may have been around about 10 years, which would be plenty of time to identify any issues and pull them if there were.
First reported by madar here on 2/19/2017. I’d say this “Value” oil filter is around less than 6 years.

Bought one of these oil filters from the dealer, don't even come in a box anymore. Happens to be one of those "value" filters from Mexico, gasket wasn't even lubed like the Japanese ones.View attachment 215914
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So the "value" type filter with the louvered punched holes appears to have an anti-drainback valve under the base-plate inside the filter.

The premium Mazda Thailand filter has no anti-drainback valve present.

Does this Mazda CX5 oilpump and plumbing is designed such that anti-drainback is un-necessary, and anti-drainback functionality is somewhere else in the lube system?

Before this 2015 CX5, my home fleet included a Toyota 22RE, and depending on the filter I used - Fram was the worst - a hot restart 10 minutes after shutdown would get three or four "knocks" on startup before oil got to whatever was knocking. And when I shut down and did an oil change, the filter was always mostly empty. Wix filters did not knock on a hot-start, and were full when removed for oil change. Cold startups required a few seconds of crank for the fuel injection to initialize and inject, so cold startups never "knocked". So the anti-drainback valve in the filter does something on a 22RE Toyota.

Given the absence of anti-drainback valve on the Mazda-supplied Thailand filter, it appears the anti-drainback valve built into the filter would be extraneous.
 
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