Mazda CX-5 OEM Parts

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2017 CX5 AWD Touring
I have a 2017 Mazda CX-5 and looking to get OEM washers for the engine oil, transmission and differentials.

I came up with # 9956-41-800 (Drain Plug Washer $2.25)
# 9956-41-400 (Drain Plug Washer $1.00)

What is the difference between the 2 washers?

Does the differential drain plugs use the same as the engine oil washer?

I assume the transmission uses the same washer as the engine oil washer?
 
I have a 2017 Mazda CX-5 and looking to get OEM washers for the engine oil, transmission and differentials.

I came up with # 9956-41-800 (Drain Plug Washer $2.25)
# 9956-41-400 (Drain Plug Washer $1.00)

What is the difference between the 2 washers?

Does the differential drain plugs use the same as the engine oil washer?

I assume the transmission uses the same washer as the engine oil washer?
For CX-5:
Meeting the specs or not, my point was only to emphasize those multiple packs, they all have Mazda part number 9956-41-400 mixed in the description, are NOT Mazda OEM drain plug aluminum washers, but made by “Prime Ave” and “AOIT”. So don’t mistake them as the Mazda product 9956-41-400.

Yes most car dealers will include a drain plug aluminum washer with each OEM oil filter sold.

2016.5 CX-5 Transmission fluid change questions

Rear Diff and Transfer Case Fluid Change: Tools, Parts and Links
 
Thanks for the info!

I plan on ordering it directly with Mazda and getting OEM. I read too many bad reviews on Amazon that the replacement parts don't fit correctly and cause leaks.
 
You don't have to use OEM drain plug washers for engine oil or transmission fluid..
Just by any washer, aluminum is better but copper washers work as well. Don't waste your time and money overr these. I use bulk washers from RockAuto.com, never had any issue.
I buy Dorman brand washers by size.

Better spend money saved for good Torque Wrench.
 
I buy Honda washers by the mega pack because they're cheap. 20 for like $8 or so. 20 lasts a good while, obviously.
 
Any idea what part# are the plastic clips that hold the plastic access cover underneath the car that accesses the oil filter area?
 
You don't have to use OEM drain plug washers for engine oil or transmission fluid..
Just by any washer, aluminum is better but copper washers work as well. Don't waste your time and money overr these. I use bulk washers from RockAuto.com, never had any issue.
I buy Dorman brand washers by size.

Better spend money saved for good Torque Wrench.O
OEM washers are only $1

If you go on Amazon and read the reviews on the aftermarket washers. People have experienced losing oil and major leaks. For me, is it worth saving $1.00 but risking have a $5,000 engine have failure due to oil leakage from a drain plug gasket? Absolutely not.
 
Any idea what part# are the plastic clips that hold the plastic access cover underneath the car that accesses the oil filter area?
There’re plastic clips and screws (total 3) for the oil filter access hole cover.

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OEM washers are only $1

If you go on Amazon and read the reviews on the aftermarket washers. People have experienced losing oil and major leaks. For me, is it worth saving $1.00 but risking have a $5,000 engine have failure due to oil leakage from a drain plug gasket? Absolutely not.


Are you kidding me? People have experienced losing oil and major leaks, had to replace engine for that? Oil leak at drain plug is not going to lead to major leak, much less to engine failure. It's the people who forgot to replace drain plug, then drove without ANY engine oil in it.

If there's any leak at drain plug, it's because people didn't tighten it with correct torque, not because they used cheap washer. Even if they didn't tightened it right, they're supposed to check for oil level every week, that's in your OM.

Here I snipped three washers, 1 OEM, 1 Dorman from my stash and a copper washer I had. All are soft enough to easily snipped. I'm not saying you should save money by buying cheap, but saying you don't have to use OEM washer. OEM washer was much thinner than Dorman washer. I wasn't sure what the correct torque for my CX-5 was , so went for 30 fp
 

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Are you kidding me? People have experienced losing oil and major leaks, had to replace engine for that? Oil leak at drain plug is not going to lead to major leak, much less to engine failure. It's the people who forgot to replace drain plug, then drove without ANY engine oil in it.

If there's any leak at drain plug, it's because people didn't tighten it with correct torque, not because they used cheap washer. Even if they didn't tightened it right, they're supposed to check for oil level every week, that's in your OM.
True, most on this forum probably check their oil on weekly basis and would catch an oil leak. And using a different washer probably not a big deal...would realize the leak and change out washers...

But sadly, a majority of the population probably doesn't even check their oil on a monthly basis, let alone weekly.

Add in someone who has a dirt or gravel driveway, parks in different parking spot at work... They might not even notice a slow drip til the engines blown.

Real world example, approx. 20 years ago, coworker was having trouble starting car, popped the hood... Battery was good, etc. No oil on dipstick...
Had crack in oil pan from whomever over-tightening the plug from last oil change...Lord knows how long ago that was. Yep that was expensive fix.

Of course he always checked the oil and didn't know how it leaked out that fast?

The little oil left that was leaking was black as coal and thin as water.

That's why they've designed sealed systems and longer lasting oils/fluids, for most of the general population that can't be bothered with maintenance.
 
I like the Honda type, too. I bought s 5-pack at Autozone and they've lasted several years. They don't seem to be too picky about how tight they are. I guess the rubber compresses more than solid aluminum.
I buy Honda washers by the mega pack because they're cheap. 20 for like $8 or so. 20 lasts a good while, obviously.a
 
Oops, over-tightened by 1.1 fp
Another tip, if your car is new or if you don't have a torque wrench is to mark a line across drain plug and pan with white paint or liquid white out before loosening the plug so you can see where to stop tightening it. This is assumed that the previous torque was correct lol.
 
Another tip, if your car is new or if you don't have a torque wrench is to mark a line across drain plug and pan with white paint or liquid white out before loosening the plug so you can see where to stop tightening it. This is assumed that the previous torque was correct lol.
Threads season and torque to angle changes before stabilizing again after run in. I see this on barel nuts and muzzle devices on m4s when assembling.
 
I have tried to find other methods, but beyond measuring bolt stretch with stoopid expensive kit, measuring drag (torque wrench) is the best way. I am very attentive to torque and bolt stretch, by extension, when building/assembling or maintaining weapon systems. This is the last one I did, for a good friend.
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