Mazda Adjusted Break Bias on "newer" Mazdas?

[gizzard]

I took my car to a Mazda dealer to get its 30K mile service and the dealer said I had more 80% brakes left on the front, but less than 10% on the rear. They quoted a $200+ service on it ($90 for brakes, $100+ for labor). I thought this was really puzzling because much of the car's weight is usually on the front axle when braking. I called a friend who is much more knowledgeable about cars and he told me to ask the mechanic if the rear calipers were dragging. The dealer said nothing was abnormal with the calipers, but Mazda adjusted the brake bias on newer Mazdas to the rear.

Is this true? And if so, would there be such a large disparity in brake wear? I really don't want to spend another $200 on top of the $339 service, especially when I'm going to spend another $300 on a new set of tires soon.

Thanks in advance for your advice.

Edit: Is there a way I can check myself? Should I feel it during driving?

 

[AlbNYPR5]

I have gone through two sets of pads on the rear of my car in about 42k. There is a known problem with the pads hanging up which causes increased pad wear. My first set of pads were covered by mazda under goodwill at like 21k. Another 10k or so went by and the brakes were having issues again and within another 5k the passenger side rear pad was worn to the metal backplate. I replaced the pads and rotors all around at that point and haven't see the pads hang up at all in the past 7k or so. To me it looks like the mazda rear pads are just s***.

 

[nalspeed]

if you have a p5 this is what I did I bought some ceramic posi pads and blank rotors, since you only have 30k on car I would just recomend getting the pads from propartsusa he is in forum, but if you want that extra brake power get the rotor as well, i went to evanstires don't know if you have those around your area and they instl it for 75 dollars. never ever go to dealer to get brakes done they **** you on labor

I took my car to a Mazda dealer to get its 30K mile service and the dealer said I had more 80% brakes left on the front, but less than 10% on the rear. They quoted a $200+ service on it ($90 for brakes, $100+ for labor). I thought this was really puzzling because much of the car's weight is usually on the front axle when braking. I called a friend who is much more knowledgeable about cars and he told me to ask the mechanic if the rear calipers were dragging. The dealer said nothing was abnormal with the calipers, but Mazda adjusted the brake bias on newer Mazdas to the rear.

Is this true? And if so, would there be such a large disparity in brake wear? I really don't want to spend another $200 on top of the $339 service, especially when I'm going to spend another $300 on a new set of tires soon.

Thanks in advance for your advice.

Edit: Is there a way I can check myself? Should I feel it during driving?

 

[eting_pro5]

quit driving with the ebrake on.


just kidding, im sure its mazda shitiness

 

[cheapmiata1600]

huh, I've replaced my fronts once already but I havn't touched the rears. I have 45k miles too.

 

[i12drivemyMP5]

I have 2003, what is "newer models" My oem stuff came off at 8k with no signs of wear at all much less abnormal. Only took them off to put on brembos & hawks. I'm at 37k & still have at least 1/3 of the pads in back & a little less in front. Not seeing any strange wear at all. Now since the rotors were drilled/slotted they will be toast when pads are done-nothing left to turn surprised no warp action yet but I use steering wheel & gas, brakes are a last resort. The oems are in good enough shape to go back on should I not want to buy the other combo again. I will be buying same combo again less the slots-only drilled rotors this time. I refuse to let anyone work on my car at all unless new tires or alignment for the reasons you stated. Sounds like you got the brakes from our POS 1997 pontiac grand am we used to have. I replaced pads once then pads/rotors by the time we were at 20k & that was the wife's car. She has much tamer driving habits.

 

[ChopstickHero]

in my P5, i've changed the front rotors once and machined them once, and changed the pads twice..... BEFORE i even touched my rear brakes.

 

[the tortoise]

I think it depends where you live. Apparently the road salt really upsets the rear calipers, causing the brakes to drag.

I think the Mazda dude was full of $hit. It makes no sense to have the brake bias shifted that much to the rear.

 

[.paul]

I took my car to a Mazda dealer to get its 30K mile service and the dealer said I had more 80% brakes left on the front, but less than 10% on the rear. ...The dealer said nothing was abnormal with the calipers, but Mazda adjusted the brake bias on newer Mazdas to the rear

There's no way you'd have that much brake bias to the rear, you'd notice it the first time you got hard on the brakes and looped the car. Generally you'll go through two sets of front brakes before you change a rear set.

but if you want that extra brake power get the rotor as well,

What? How does changing a rotor give you more braking power?
The only thing the brake rotor does is dissipate the heat the brake pads create when they change forward motion in to heat energy.

 

[gizzard]

Some more details: I live in Southern California (near LA) and my car is a 2003 P5 (no roof rack). The mechanic seemed to include my car, Mazda3s and 6s in the "newer cars" categories. I'm calling BS on him too, but I'm going to get it checked out at other dealerships in my area.

Thanks for the advice. =)

 

[Jack Daniels]

I just did the rear brakes on my 2003 P5 at 38000 miles. Calipers are not dragging. I have heard that there is more rear bias on these cars. Maybe it's only on P5's with ABS?

The fronts are at about 50%.


BTW, it's a really easy job to do yourself.

 

[macklum]

I opted for the drum brakes and no ABS on my 2001lx for that reasons ,Mazda rear calipers are s*** , I just checked the drums at 137kms and I sill have 1/2 the shoes left .

 

[aMaff]

I just did the rear brakes on my 2003 P5 at 38000 miles. Calipers are not dragging. I have heard that there is more rear bias on these cars. Maybe it's only on P5's with ABS?

The fronts are at about 50%.


BTW, it's a really easy job to do yourself.

It's really not aweful, now that I've done it once, I think I could handle it next time

 

[i12drivemyMP5]

Way to easy to have some careless dealershit screw it up for no reason. Use the labor fees for the women, entertainment OR other goodies for your car.

 

[Jack Daniels]

I opted for the drum brakes and no ABS on my 2001lx for that reasons ,Mazda rear calipers are s*** , I just checked the drums at 137kms and I sill have 1/2 the shoes left .

You opted for drum brakes on purpose?

 

[Greg S]

Some more details: I live in Southern California (near LA) and my car is a 2003 P5 (no roof rack). The mechanic seemed to include my car, Mazda3s and 6s in the "newer cars" categories. I'm calling BS on him too, but I'm going to get it checked out at other dealerships in my area.

Thanks for the advice. =)

Same deal for me and with the front pads halfway worn the rears were toast, had to replace the rotors since they were so scored. Wife's car not mine. Seems to be an issue with the P5 for certain, don't know about other Mazdas. Once you see how the rear caliper design is done you can see why it happens, not the smartest design, but cost effective.

 

[mogi]

uh *cough* guys *cough*

TSB
http://web2.airmail.net/theman/protegefaq/tsb/

 

[Jack Daniels]

uh *cough* guys *cough*

TSB
http://web2.airmail.net/theman/protegefaq/tsb/

So there's a TSB. I had inspected my rears a couple of times during tire rotations and saw no dragging of the brakes. They wore perfectly even on both the left and right. The inboard and outboard pads were exactly the same. Dragging pads on single piston calipers typically wear more on one side. I don't think there's any problem. :shrug:

 

[Nomad]

OK guys, I suppose I should write some info here.

The miata brakes are the same design in the rear and there are a few little issues everyone should know to overcome shortcomings.

The rear calipers are "floating" single piston, in that the single piston on the inside pushes the inner pad against the rotor, then as it closes the distance the outer pad is forced closer to the rotor by it "sliding" on the two slider pins. The effectiveness of the brakes depends on the two slider pins moving freely.
These are supposed to be lubed from the factory but 99% of the cars seen display no lube whatsoever even right off the Mazda boat. Oops!
The first thing people should do to avoid this is really easy. Take the rear wheels off, undo the two rear caliperpins and they will slide out their sleeves. You'll then notice that the pins are either dry and smooth or dry and corroded or in rare cases lubed. Clean off corrosion and lube liberally with copper based high temp anti sieze grease. It comes in a bottle (like a vitamin bottle) at any parts store.

Grease those slider pins and the rear brakes will engage and disengage as they are supposed to. Yearly if you are into it. Since this area is sort of open at least every other year you may want to add some grease.

This is why the rears stay closed and wear out. So grease your pins and save money on brakes and free up horsepower!

 

[.paul]

My hero!!
I definately should do this sometime.