There's definitely no shortage of builders around here (Ludwig Motorsports, Banzai Racing, RX-7 Store, Rotary Resurrection are all relatively close to me). Seems like the rotor housings are the hard thing to find. A lot of people seem to have the irons, but at the moment I'm trying to find a complete shortblock. If I get desperate I'll start looking into purchasing the components separately. Let me know if you guys have anything lying aroundI have several S5 Turbo engines rebuilders. I also have an S5 torn down engine minus the rotor housings. The parts are in really good shape.
-Derrick
Definitely let me know.I have 2 complete engines here which we could take all of the manifolds off to lighten it up for shipping.
Let me see if I can get some pictures.
-Derrick
I was able to fab up (and I use that phrase loosely) some brackets for the driver's side this weekend. I ended up using the stock brackets and aluminum stock found at Lowes. Initially I used some 3/4" square tubing and some 1/8"x1" flat stock and while that worked, I found the seating position to be too high (knees hit the steering wheel and head hit the roof at times). I went back to Lowes and picked up some 1/4"x1" flat stock and that did the trick (needed to be thick enough to clear some features on the stock slider).
I'll let the pictures do the talking. The pictures show the 3/4" square tubing initially used, but the end product is essentially the same. Total cost for the driver's side: ~$35. Take that $110/ea Wedge brackets!
The sad part is it's incredibly dirty in those pictures!Wow, your interior looks fresh! Looks like it's in crazy good shape...
The sad part is it's incredibly dirty in those pictures!
It was already in decent condition when I got it, but I replaced every (visibly) broken panel last Fall. There is a burn mark on the radio surround from the cig ligher (argh!) and the steering wheel and e-brake handle are showing some wear and the cargo cover isn't perfect though. I'm going to get a new radio surround and the steering wheel will be replaced with a slightly smaller Sparco one(350mm) and a Snap-Off quick release unit; I don't know what to do about the e-brake handle.
Hopefully I will get to work on the passenger's side this weekend unless my brakes come in, which gets priority.
Total cost for the driver's side: ~$35. Take that $110/ea Wedge brackets!
Well I've been bested. Game-Set-Match: Passenger's Seat Rails. I'm either going to have to build up the courage to try again (not likely as I was not happy how things were looking to fit) or go with the Wedge bracket. That being said, the passenger's side Sparco won't be going in for a while (maybe late Summer?).Ugh, the passenger's side is going to be a b****. For whatever reason, Mazda in their infinite wisdom, decided to make the inside seat rail for the passenger's side angled and about 3/4" higher than the outside rail. I'm fairly certain I can still put something together but the seat is going to be like 3/4"-1" higher than stock, which I'm not so happy about. I'll just have to see how it goes.
I've been asking around and it appears it could be a number of things: bad trailing coil (source of tachometer signal), dirty contacts (I'm going to try to clean them tonight) or a bad calibration. Mazda did build in a calibration method but I need a 12V signal source. I have read a 12V battery charger will output a 120Hz signal, which is supposed to read 3600 RPM on the tachometer when properly calibrated. It's odd because the FSM mentions no calibration method at all. If I can find a 12V battery charger (I'm sure there's one around the house) I may try this weekend, but I'm deathly afraid to pull apart the dash after what happened last time (about 10 plastic pieces broke and I had to spend ~$200 replacing them).check it at idle to see what it reads vs what you know is accurate?
maybe its just a mis-calibration of the gauge?
very odd that its off a flat amount not a percentage.
Thanks! I know it doesn't look like much but I'll get there one day! The tires are 225/50R16 Toyo T1-R's. You can definitely get away with larger in the back, but with the 16x8 +32 Enkei's I have, I literally have 1/8" clearance at the spring perch in the front, and that's with camber plates and bolts! Any lower offset and I'd be smacking the fender and the proximity to the spring perch prevents more negative camber.very nice build up, you sure put alot of work in to it. BTW what tire size did you go with on your ENKEI's? I have a set of FD rims 16X8, so when I get my FC I know what tires they can run.
Thanks, and no problem!thanx for that info! and very nice seats!!!(cool)