Well, the wedding is over, and thats freed up a lot of cash...So i've decided to treat the car to some new work.
A few people here already know the long term plan, but we'll keep that hush hush for the time being.
Did some routine inspecting of the car the other day, and found some very disturbing stuff. 12 months of very hard drag racing have left all bar the front engine mount destroyed. Reason the front survived is I swapped it out for an AWR mount, but didn't get the rear one in because I couldn't get one of the bolts off... my lack of persistence seems to have been the main reason for the rear, and then the sides letting go. So I've garaged the car and decided to do a bit of work on it.
Got a set of autoexe coilovers with low mileage in the mail the other day - they come off a sport20 and thus need some modification to get them to fit the fwd. The rears lack the tabs to bolt the sway bar up (stuffs me how the sport20 rear bar works...), but that shouldn't be too much of a big deal. Calling my suspension shop tomorrow to get some options. If all goes well i should have them in the car within the fortnight. Very pleased to have found a set, they are absolutely awesome coilovers - Twilightprotege has had a set for a few months now and the ride quality and handling is second to none.
I'll post some pics when i get a chance.
So back to the engine mount issue. In order to get the rear mount off, i am going to have to grind the studs off and drill them out. The nuts have seazed and even with a 6 foot breaker bar i was doing nothing but stripping the hell out of them. So i'll get in there with the dremel and cut them off, drill them out and weld some new high tensile studs to replace them.
In order to make room to work, the intake manifold is going to have to come off, and this is where the fun begins. The new wife has grudgingly accepted me fabricating a new intake manifold. While the manifold is off, i'll send the gasket off to be used as a template for a laser cut flange plate.
Design is going to be a single runner, tuned ram tunnel design. For those unfamiliar with this design, the basic idea is to use reflected pressure waves to boost intake pressure in the runners using Helmholtz theory. Basically when an air charge hits a closed valve, it reflects a pressure wave at the speed of sound back out the intake manifold, which is again reflected when it reaches the opening of ram tunnel. If tuned correctly, and timed just right, when that reflected pressure wave reaches and open intake valve, pressures as high as 7psi at the valve can be achieved. I've got the math on my desk right now, and once i've got the design worked out i'll post up how its all worked out.
In addition, I'm going to take the opportunity to fab up my custom 4-1 race headers. I've got all the pipe work sitting there ready to go (i've had the pipes for over a year now, and haven't been bothered putting it all together) - so its just a case of putting it together and building an exhaust system to suit.
Both manifolds are being designed for the not-so-secret engine rebuild, but should still give a substantial improvement on the stock motor. I'm hoping these additions will give me the power I need to get me below the magic 15 second mark, which will allow me to qualify for the next sport compact series, as they are enforcing far stricter cut offs next year.
In addition, i'm looking at doing an oil filter relocation and sorting out my gauge cluster bits and pieces, as well as doing a battery relocation to the boot (needed to make room for the ram tunnel and pod filter, as well as the cold air box to seal it off from the engine). The wife also has a few requests for some other upgrades so stay tuned.
I'll post some more tomorrow...right now i'm getting the wind up from mandy, so hope you enjoy this little tease
A few people here already know the long term plan, but we'll keep that hush hush for the time being.
Did some routine inspecting of the car the other day, and found some very disturbing stuff. 12 months of very hard drag racing have left all bar the front engine mount destroyed. Reason the front survived is I swapped it out for an AWR mount, but didn't get the rear one in because I couldn't get one of the bolts off... my lack of persistence seems to have been the main reason for the rear, and then the sides letting go. So I've garaged the car and decided to do a bit of work on it.
Got a set of autoexe coilovers with low mileage in the mail the other day - they come off a sport20 and thus need some modification to get them to fit the fwd. The rears lack the tabs to bolt the sway bar up (stuffs me how the sport20 rear bar works...), but that shouldn't be too much of a big deal. Calling my suspension shop tomorrow to get some options. If all goes well i should have them in the car within the fortnight. Very pleased to have found a set, they are absolutely awesome coilovers - Twilightprotege has had a set for a few months now and the ride quality and handling is second to none.
I'll post some pics when i get a chance.
So back to the engine mount issue. In order to get the rear mount off, i am going to have to grind the studs off and drill them out. The nuts have seazed and even with a 6 foot breaker bar i was doing nothing but stripping the hell out of them. So i'll get in there with the dremel and cut them off, drill them out and weld some new high tensile studs to replace them.
In order to make room to work, the intake manifold is going to have to come off, and this is where the fun begins. The new wife has grudgingly accepted me fabricating a new intake manifold. While the manifold is off, i'll send the gasket off to be used as a template for a laser cut flange plate.
Design is going to be a single runner, tuned ram tunnel design. For those unfamiliar with this design, the basic idea is to use reflected pressure waves to boost intake pressure in the runners using Helmholtz theory. Basically when an air charge hits a closed valve, it reflects a pressure wave at the speed of sound back out the intake manifold, which is again reflected when it reaches the opening of ram tunnel. If tuned correctly, and timed just right, when that reflected pressure wave reaches and open intake valve, pressures as high as 7psi at the valve can be achieved. I've got the math on my desk right now, and once i've got the design worked out i'll post up how its all worked out.
In addition, I'm going to take the opportunity to fab up my custom 4-1 race headers. I've got all the pipe work sitting there ready to go (i've had the pipes for over a year now, and haven't been bothered putting it all together) - so its just a case of putting it together and building an exhaust system to suit.
Both manifolds are being designed for the not-so-secret engine rebuild, but should still give a substantial improvement on the stock motor. I'm hoping these additions will give me the power I need to get me below the magic 15 second mark, which will allow me to qualify for the next sport compact series, as they are enforcing far stricter cut offs next year.
In addition, i'm looking at doing an oil filter relocation and sorting out my gauge cluster bits and pieces, as well as doing a battery relocation to the boot (needed to make room for the ram tunnel and pod filter, as well as the cold air box to seal it off from the engine). The wife also has a few requests for some other upgrades so stay tuned.
I'll post some more tomorrow...right now i'm getting the wind up from mandy, so hope you enjoy this little tease