LinuxRacr's Haltech E6X Log..
- Thread starter LinuxRacr
- Start date
Now I do....that the exhaust leak is fixed! (laugh)
Found out that I have had an exahust leak since the turbo was installed. A stud had ripped all the threads out of the block. I had to take off the turbo, manifold, and downpipe to re-tap the hole. Not it holds like a charm!!
Found out that I have had an exahust leak since the turbo was installed. A stud had ripped all the threads out of the block. I had to take off the turbo, manifold, and downpipe to re-tap the hole. Not it holds like a charm!!
Today, I totally revamped my ignition map again. It looks VERY close to Juan's ignition for his 44093 map. There is a reason for that. I did some test pulls this morning, and found areas where I was pinging. I just got rid of timing in those areas, and MAN does it pull smoother than ever before. This is because the timing trends in Juan's map are more gradual. So in esence, my map keeps pulling up top now in EVERY gear, and not just 4th.
LinuxRacr said:
Ha! I had this exact problem on 2, and then 3 of the studs. My next big project is to retap all of them and replace all the manifold bolts. I still have #3 loose. I just checked again today, and one of the bolts pulled all the way out and is gone. So I have to do this pronto.
I used studs and Nuts. Flyin' Miata is good about supplying some good A2 grade stainless steel studs, nuts, and washers. 8M 1.25 is the sizing on the studs. They have an offset collar so that you can screw the end with the least amount of threads into the block, and the end with the most threads go out towards the manifold.
i finally saw my turbo Linux, can you give me specifics on what your cold start problem was? I am having a cold start issue that seems to be more prevalent the colder the outside air is (depending on how long the car sits). I get an initial bit of fuel when the car starts, then it seems like the fuel just isn't there to support the continuing needs of the engine, until after a few starts. Is that what was happening with you?
I'm assuming you are using 440's? Get your injector times up to about 5.4ms to 6.2ms during cranking... then during cold idle you should be seeing around 1.4-1.7ms if you can adjust to get things to those numbers you'll get a good start and idle... also bump your timing by another 3 degrees when really cold as well.. (use your timing water temp correction maps) that is what we do on the Microtech's and it works great!
Yeah, the Haltechs have the Coolant Temp correction maps. If it is cranking slower (rur...rur...rur), you may not have enough fuel added during cranking, and may just have to add a little more. If you have a fast crank (rur.rur.rur), you may have too much fuel being added.
