LinuxRacr's Haltech E6X Log..

[TurfBurn]

you can set the haltech to do up to 60 seconds of post start enrichment

Nifty.. I may be half confusing that correction with a different one... the Microtech has like 3 or 4 startup correction factors... can be a bit much when you don't understand them all. Sounds like the Haltech is about the same there too.

 

[Captain KRM P5]

Nifty.. I may be half confusing that correction with a different one... the Microtech has like 3 or 4 startup correction factors... can be a bit much when you don't understand them all. Sounds like the Haltech is about the same there too.

it has coolant temp correction, air temp correction, fuel temp correction, fuel pressure correction, battery correction, zero and full throttle maps, barometric correction, post start enrichment, wastegate duty cycle, idle speed control, closed loop 02 and adjustable injector trims.

i think from what i saw the air temp correction was too rich. at zero celcius for example his map adds 2.4% more fuel whereas mine adds about 1.1% more. That may not seem like a huge difference but in playing around with the unit that percentage of correction can change alot.

 

[TurfBurn]

it has coolant temp correction, air temp correction, fuel temp correction, fuel pressure correction, battery correction, zero and full throttle maps, barometric correction, post start enrichment, wastegate duty cycle, idle speed control, closed loop 02 and adjustable injector trims.

i think from what i saw the air temp correction was too rich. at zero celcius for example his map adds 2.4% more fuel whereas mine adds about 1.1% more. That may not seem like a huge difference but in playing around with the unit that percentage of correction can change alot.

What you need all that for! LOL Just kidding.. but yeah... Air temp corrections typically will run as high as 8-10% correction over "base" wherever your base temp is. Water temp correction can sometimes be as high as 60%... so his numbers don't sound unreasonable... and a 1% difference is nearly nominal...

fuel pressure, injector atomization etc will all affect that considerably.

 

[vindication]

WOW, tons of info for my n00bish ears. I was wondering if a tunning n00b like myself could learn to tune the car "good enough"? I might either go with the E6X,Microtech, or AEM(but that wont be for a while) and hope I wont get too deep. With someone to teach me the basics enough to learn the rest on my own would I be able to tune my car to purr like a kitten(or close ), so to speak? Say about a year or so, to be able to tune during summer and winter conditions?

 

[TurfBurn]

WOW, tons of info for my n00bish ears. I was wondering if a tunning n00b like myself could learn to tune the car "good enough"? I might either go with the E6X,Microtech, or AEM(but that wont be for a while) and hope I wont get too deep. With someone to teach me the basics enough to learn the rest on my own would I be able to tune my car to purr like a kitten(or close ), so to speak? Say about a year or so, to be able to tune during summer and winter conditions?

Well I taught Keola and Dave over the phone how to tune the car with the Microtech in it over the phone over a couple of nights enough that they have it running and streetable in a matter of a few "lessons." So I could teach you to tune the Micrtoech enough to be driveable and fix the "problems" of cold start etc from a poor tune in a matter of a weekend or two of you trying it. As long as you have a wideband and an extra set of hands available you'd be just fine. The Microtech is very friendly... You could probably do the same with the Haltech.. but I'm not going to be so keen to help teach you how to tune over the phone when it's not my product . I'll help troubleshoot here and there, but obviously not going to give hours of support for something I didn't sell!

You'll get to "good enough" easily enough... but then the long road is getting it from good enough to good!

 

[LinuxRacr]

After getting it started, I let the car sit for about an hour, and it wouldn't start again. Back to the maps...

 

[MPNick]

After getting it started, I let the car sit for about an hour, and it wouldn't start again. Back to the maps...

Why not install your stock injectors for now until you get the hang of tuning the system?

 

[TurfBurn]

After getting it started, I let the car sit for about an hour, and it wouldn't start again. Back to the maps...

Patrick,

Each time you start the car note the coolant and air temperature on a piece of paper. You should start to see trends when you do that. It will help solve your problems a little as it will help you methodically identify each portion you work on. Make sure you leave your idle maps alone and the like and only fiddle really with the crank and after start enrichment. Those are the biggees to get it to work as Steve explained to you!

Later,

Steve

 

[TurfBurn]

Why not install your stock injectors for now until you get the hang of tuning the system?

I don't think that'll help unless someone already has a perfect startup map for stock injectors... and that won't help him learn to tune startup/idle. Tuning the regular maps and tuning startup are totally different animals... tuning startup/idle is the hardest part in my opinion at least!.

 

[Focus]

No offense guys, but these are the reasons I would shy away from a full standalone.

 

[TurfBurn]

No offense guys, but these are the reasons I would shy away from a full standalone.

It's just a tune thing... that's like saying you'd shy away from the piggyback because you have to adjust fuel under boost. So you should just use a pre-programmed chip then. Sure it's more work... but you also get more power, and there is something to be said for the pride of knowing the car runs the way it does because YOU made it run that way. Patrick has had this thing a few days... it takes a little bit to get the maps setup right and then it's all set...


In the end you have more control... and more control comes with it's price.

 

[Dexter]

No offense guys, but these are the reasons I would shy away from a full standalone.

Its not that big of a reason, imho......once you get the tune, youre good.

 

[Focus]

It's just a tune thing... that's like saying you'd shy away from the piggyback because you have to adjust fuel under boost. So you should just use a pre-programmed chip then. Sure it's more work... but you also get more power, and there is something to be said for the pride of knowing the car runs the way it does because YOU made it run that way. Patrick has had this thing a few days... it takes a little bit to get the maps setup right and then it's all set...


In the end you have more control... and more control comes with it's price.

You can get just as much power from a piggyback.

 

[Dexter]

Good to hear it. Like we needed to hear it.

 

[Captain KRM P5]

I don't think that'll help unless someone already has a perfect startup map for stock injectors... and that won't help him learn to tune startup/idle. Tuning the regular maps and tuning startup are totally different animals... tuning startup/idle is the hardest part in my opinion at least!.

the haltech has control provisions for individual injector fuel trim - would not getting a good base map with the stock injectors like Nick said and then using the trim function with the larger injectors to even it out make sense? or am i looking at it all wrong?

You can get just as much power from a piggyback.

well, if that were 100% true, why would any one ever decide to use a standalone? (ughdance)

patrick i'll make some changes and send the map back to you tonight

 

[jrodhotrod]

Keep up with the sharing of information, all useful for me as I'll be trying to tune my own cold starts soon enough. Stick with it, and you'll get it figured out. If Ken can do it in Illinois with those 0 degree temps, and YP5 in Toronto can get it done, I have no doubt that this car can be made to start cleanly, just have to find the winning combo.

I am curious though, what maps did Steve tune for your timing Pat?

 

[Bigg Tim]

It's just a tune thing... that's like saying you'd shy away from the piggyback because you have to adjust fuel under boost. So you should just use a pre-programmed chip then. Sure it's more work... but you also get more power, and there is something to be said for the pride of knowing the car runs the way it does because YOU made it run that way. Patrick has had this thing a few days... it takes a little bit to get the maps setup right and then it's all set...


In the end you have more control... and more control comes with it's price.

That remains to be seen.(thumb) I too have pride in making my maps on my setup. When you have the 80mm MAF in, you have to tune it from scratch just like a standalone.

 

[Captain KRM P5]

Keep up with the sharing of information, all useful for me as I'll be trying to tune my own cold starts soon enough. Stick with it, and you'll get it figured out. If Ken can do it in Illinois with those 0 degree temps, and YP5 in Toronto can get it done, I have no doubt that this car can be made to start cleanly, just have to find the winning combo.

I am curious though, what maps did Steve tune for your timing Pat?

YP5 toronto has it worse than I do I am sure. I've had the "fortune" of having a wide variety of temperatures and weather conditions in the last month ranging from -10 to 50 degrees fahrenheit and have eliminated cold start issues.

 

[TurfBurn]

You can get just as much power from a piggyback.

Not if doesn't have enough res... and can't advance timing.

 

[azian6er]

these problems were my nightmares as well. Haltech works great when its warm, but when its cold it can be a b****. This is why i am looking into the aem or emanage...

-B