LinuxRacr's Haltech E6X Log..
- Thread starter LinuxRacr
- Start date
jrodhotrod
Contributor
- :
- 2003 Mazda Protege5 (Mine) 2002 Nissan Sentra GXE (Wife's)
Yes, copies of your MAP please? Pretty please?
Ok, this morning I had cold start issues. The car wouldn't start. It turned over great, but wouldn't start. So I took a look at the Fuel Air Correction map and remembered that Steve Kan had changed it a little. Well, loaded up my old map just to see if it would start (of course I made the corrections to the trigger setup 1st). I looked at what it said at temprature 8.48 Celcius, and the correction factor was 0.83. I tried again, and the car started, but died after that. Looking at my new map at the same air temp range, the correction factor was like 1.42 or something like that. So I moved the bar down to correction factor 0.93. The car started right up. In turn I adjusted all the bars for colder temps down by the same number of steps. From there on, I drove into work with some nice boost. 
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LinuxRacr said:Ok, this morning I had cold start issues. The car wouldn't start. It turned over great, but wouldn't start. So I took a look at the Fuel Air Correction map and remembered that Steve Kan had changed it a little. Well, loaded up my old map just to see if it would start (of course I made the corrections to the trigger setup 1st). I looked at what it said at temprature 8.48 Celcius, and the correction factor was 0.83. I tried again, and the car started, but died after that. Looking at my new map at the same air temp range, the correction factor was like 1.4 or something like that. So I moved the bar down to correction factor 0.93. The car started right up. In turn I adjusted all the bars for colder temps down by the same factor. From there on, I drove into work with some nice boost.
That's one of the keys people have to figure out. Follow the trends and make "intelligent" adjustments and the car will start up just fine!
Glad you are rocking and rolling!
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- 2002 BJFW, 2007 BK3P, 1979 SA22C, 2005 BK3P
Captain KRM P5 said:
LinuxRacr said:Ok, this morning I had cold start issues. The car wouldn't start. It turned over great, but wouldn't start. So I took a look at the Fuel Air Correction map and remembered that Steve Kan had changed it a little. Well, loaded up my old map just to see if it would start (of course I made the corrections to the trigger setup 1st). I looked at what it said at temprature 8.48 Celcius, and the correction factor was 0.83. I tried again, and the car started, but died after that. Looking at my new map at the same air temp range, the correction factor was like 1.42 or something like that. So I moved the bar down to correction factor 0.93. The car started right up. In turn I adjusted all the bars for colder temps down by the same factor. From there on, I drove into work with some nice boost.
hey, is there an echo in here
j/k good work manThanks guys. The one thing that was also discussed was the air intake temprature. His belief is that it should not exceed 25 Celcius if your intercooler is good. Of course it will exceed that when you are at a stoplight, but when cruising around, the temps should not be higher. When I was boosting around this morning, and then I would start cruising, my intake air temps were at 29 C. I need to get that FMIC from Beau in.
LinuxRacr said:
I think he is crazy... I've run with intake temperatures as high as 50 C PRE TURBO without issue... (probably up around 80 or 90 C by the time it hit the motor) If you have a short ram intake you will be pulling air temps as high as 130F or better (roughly 55C) without even putting it through the turbo. If you have a cold air... a 90 degree day results in an intake temp of 32 C which is assuming prefectly cold air... so frankly he is off is rocker on that one.
Now if he means increase over the intake draw temp... that I can semi understand... but again... that's only a 77 degree increase... and that's not that much... figuring out the thermodynamics of that wouldn't be that hard... but you'd be looking for a system efficiency probably up over 85% which is asking a LOT....
Other ways to cool that stuff...
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LinuxRacr said:
there are a lot of equations that govern it... he'd have to know the efficiency of your turbo the relative area of the intercooler air dam area (ignoring your actual intercooler size/exposure) the amount of heat seepage in your intake manifold, the heat conduction from you manifold/turbo assembly, and any other additional factors. Not to mention actual temp at the intake (do you have a CAI or a SRI?). But creating an a priori number like that doesn't mean much of anything... I've never heard of the guy, nor do I know anything about how experienced or what he is... I'd wager more experienced than I by a good margin... but mathematics and thermodynamics are the same regardless...
You can have the best intercooler in the world but if you are on the outer edges of your compressor map it will not save you... And if you are sucking hot air to start with.... an intercooler again will not save you.
not to mention that humidity matters as it changes the heat capacity of the air... a dry day the air WILL be hotter given all other variables equal... more humid day you'll see cooler temps.
LinuxRacr said:
cough*JandS*cough
What kind of timings are you running? If you are keeping in the 15ish range under boost you aren't really doing THAT bad... timing doesn't yield as much horsepower as one would hope unfortunately... And losing timing helps spool! But sucks for EGT's and turbo life.
HiBoost TS
Member
LinuxRacr said:
Then you need to adjust your air temperature maps. This is a good time to tune for cold weather.
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- 2002 BJFW, 2007 BK3P, 1979 SA22C, 2005 BK3P
LinuxRacr said:
yes, moving the bars down reduces the percentage of correction to that temp range
