Lewis7789 2002 Protege5 build thread (tons of pics)

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Thanks Justin. That will make the tranny plugs a lot easier. I'll look into it after work. And you said you need to swap the speedo sensor from the Protege to the Mx-6 tranny, right? I have all the sensors intact on the MX-6 tranny, will that one work or not with the Protege speedo?

I'm going to be asking a lot more questions now that it's wiring time. Yay.
 
Um m I had to switch because the speedo sensor for the 1.8l wouldnt work in the mx6 trans. So I bought one from a obdII 626(same style plug as the protege harness), but Im guessing the reason it didnt work was because the 1.8l uses a F-series trans not a G-Series like the 2.0l. Don't you have ABS though? so you shouldnt even need a speedo sensor.
 
Don't you have ABS though? so you shouldnt even need a speedo sensor.

I don't think his works well anymore :S

"Yo, what dis be?"
IMG_7695.jpg


It's an ABS sensor that got deleted!
IMG_7696.jpg
 
didnt know if he would be replacing it and keeping ABS, well in that case he will need a speedo sensor LOL.
 
Dang it! Haha! Well, I just "deleted" it from the rear brakes. The fronts are still intact and can be plugged into the Protege harness, no problem. I'm a little confused as to what the speedo sensor and ABS have in common. I'm not worried about ABS but I do want a working stock speedometer.
 
my belief was that abs equipped proteges had a blank plug on the transmission for the speed sensor and used the abs wheel speed sensors for the speedo. SO, what i was saying is that if you still had abs installed and working you shouldnt have to worry about hooking up the speed sensor on the v6 trans since it is redundant and wont do anything. However, if your removing ABS then you need to make sure there is a speedo ring on the differential and that you get a speed sensor that the protege harness can plug into so u can have a working speedo.
 
Hmm... Well hopefully it will still all work with the front ABS still connected. I asked Josh to pull off the speed sensor for me from my old tranny at his house and he basically brought over a black plastic cap so I think you're right that it runs off the ABS. Now I just gotta hope the ABS system will still work in the front with the rear deleted. Or else I'll just find some rear sensors and re-install them. That's what I get for snapping off the rear ABS. blast.
 
im sure it will work enough to give your speedo a signal, idk about it working as it should for braking with the rears not hooked up. Maybe someone that has had an ABS sensor go bad can shed light on the subject.
 
im sure it will work enough to give your speedo a signal, idk about it working as it should for braking with the rears not hooked up. Maybe someone that has had an ABS sensor go bad can shed light on the subject.

I'm pretty sure the speedometer gets its signal from the front wheels. I say this because in the winter when my front wheels are spinning my speedometer reports that I'm going much faster than the car is actually moving.

The ABS light will certainly be on constantly but I suspect he'll still be able to tell how fast he's going :)
 
Cool. Thanks for the info, gentlemen. I honestly don't like the ABS system on my car anyway, it's way too sensitive. I've always just used the threshold braking style on my other cars since they didn't have ABS. I'll just pull the ABS bulb, like the airbag and CEL. ;)

Justin, I'm running to autozone tonight for hoses and stuff. I snipped one of the fuel lines on the Protege to see if it would fit and it's got a metal sleave inside, whereas the KL is just a reinforced hose. If I'm understanding correctly, you basically got a hose to fit over both ends of the fuel lines, then clamped them together, right? I thought I could just clamp the P5 line to the metal line from the KL but I doubt the metal sleeve inside will make a good seal.
 
right just normal 3/8" fuel hose from azone or advance will work and get come nice fuel injection clamps. They are the ones that look like mini tbolt clamps. These clamp more evenly and provide a better seal.
 
Awesome. Thanks for all your help on this, man. I really appreciate it. I'm sure sometimes you're just like "do your own bloody research like I did, newbie.". If there's anything I can do to repay you, let me know.

And a sincere thanks to everyone for helping me out on this swap and my car in general. Mazda love. (no homo)
 
Man I wish I was up there with you and Phen right now so I could be helping with this haha. Keep it up man, you're on the homestretch!
 
Shoot, I wish you were up here to help me out with the wiring, Ivan.

I'm headed to Summit Racing for a radiator, cap and zip tie mounts for the fans. I've done my measuring and decided on this Griffin radiator. What's the differences with radiator cap preassure though? The stock one is 13psi so I figured I would get this Griffin cap rated at 14-16psi.

Also gotta pick up my hose I ordered for the power steering, and now find some hose for the radiator. I picked up all the rest of the stuff for the motor, fuel lines, and such. That's another funny story dealing with the morons at Autozone... O'Reily's FTW.

I'll start fabbing up some brackets for the radiator tomorrow.
 
Oh, and I need to pick up some battery terminals since the ones for the Milly harness are missing. I was looking online for some and fouhttps://www.amazon.com (commissions earned). It tells you the voltage right on the terminal? Pretty sweet. But how does it work? Wouldn't it need to be connected to both sides of the battery or does it get grounded or something?
 
Oh, and I need to pick up some battery terminals since the ones for the Milly harness are missing. I was looking online for some and fouhttps://www.amazon.com (commissions earned). It tells you the voltage right on the terminal? Pretty sweet. But how does it work? Wouldn't it need to be connected to both sides of the battery or does it get grounded or something?

Read the reviews, that thing's a POS. And yes you'd need to ground it.

Just get a good cheap set of terminals from a local shop, if you need to know the battery voltage bust out a multimeter.
 
Word. Scratch the battery terminal. I'll just buy some nice standard style ones.

Bad news on the Griffin radiator, it aint gonna fit. The top inlet is way too close the the timing belt cover/alternator. And the way the cap is welded it won't sit even to the chasis. So looks like that is going back tomorrow.

Justin mentioned a Miata radiator. I measured Phens MSM radiator and the inlet is about 4-3/4" from the left so it clears the timing belt cover and alternator, but would still need a pretty drastic 90' bend to the left for the coolant hose. I'm going to do some more research online tonight and see what i can come up with for a radiator. Worse case scenario I'll just rock an OEM Milly radiator.
 
Something like this for the positive (for later additions)
jlaudio006%20004.jpg


And something like this for the ground for easy removal.
t_4437.jpg
 
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