Lewis7789 2002 Protege5 build thread (tons of pics)
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That's exactly what I was looking to do, Cres. I wanted something nicer than the ugly terminals and like the extra holes for my mini-sub and HID's. And the quick release negative terminal will be nice since I'm sure I'll be wrenching on the motor all the time. heh-heh
As far as the radiator goes, looks like I'm going to stick with an OEM replacement. There are a few locally for around $135. And at least I should be able to buy stock hoses for it. One thing I'm going to have to figure out is the resevoir tank. I was planning on using the Protege, but the Milly radiator has a much lager hole on the top DS for the resevior tank to mount to. And I still need to look into the oil cooler lines for it. Oy.
As far as the radiator goes, looks like I'm going to stick with an OEM replacement. There are a few locally for around $135. And at least I should be able to buy stock hoses for it. One thing I'm going to have to figure out is the resevoir tank. I was planning on using the Protege, but the Milly radiator has a much lager hole on the top DS for the resevior tank to mount to. And I still need to look into the oil cooler lines for it. Oy.
03zoomzoom
Member
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- 2012 Mazda 3 i Touring
why not just make a coolant jug. Jegs had a $20 catch can that worked perfect for me. I'm sure Summit has a similar product. It doesn't have to be anything fancy. The aftermarket ones have basic mounting brackets that make it nice.
found them
http://www.summitracing.com/search/...nks-Catch-Cans/Price-Range/10-20/?Ns=Rank|Asc
found them
http://www.summitracing.com/search/...nks-Catch-Cans/Price-Range/10-20/?Ns=Rank|Asc
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Yeah, I know about those. I was just thinking about how I'll find an adaptor for that top left hole. It's probably 3/4" down to the coolant can of 1/4".
I'm going to play with the Griffin radiator some more tomorrow before I throw in the towel on an aftermarket rad. Maybe if I remove the radiator bracing I can squeeze it in there since I deleted the A/C. This 3" Griffin rad is really nice and was only a little more $ than the 1/2" OEM radiator.
I'm going to play with the Griffin radiator some more tomorrow before I throw in the towel on an aftermarket rad. Maybe if I remove the radiator bracing I can squeeze it in there since I deleted the A/C. This 3" Griffin rad is really nice and was only a little more $ than the 1/2" OEM radiator.
The picture above looks just like my radiator. What you are missing is the air separator tank that uses the smaller outlet on the top corner of the radiator. The air separator has the little nipple that you use to hook the protege container to.
Hope this helps explain it.
Pics:
Hope this helps explain it.
Pics:
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Well, another saturday in the garage. Thanks, Wes, for coming over today, man.
I've got the brake booster vacuum line ran to the IM. Had to return the power steering hose to O'Reily's (wrong size). We got a 5/8" line but it's still not fitting over the power steering hardline from the power steering pump. But is the right size for the resevior. I might have to return that and use 3/4" and find an adaptor for the resevior.
Here's the harline for the PS pump I need to try to stretch the 5/8" hose over. Josh is going to check the FS if the hardline will bolt up, though it looks like from the manual it won't.
No luck on fuel lines. I need 11/32" but only 3/8" is stocked locally. And at $8 a foot, I want to make sure it's going to work before buying it. So I'm going to keep looking.
Ordered the MX-6 radiator, should be here Wednesday. Hopefully the moron at O'Reilys ordered the right part this time...
Here you can see where the Griffin radiator hits the alternator. And the Miata radiator won't work either since it's positioned more to the right 5".
I want to get the fuel lines buttoned up before I do anymore wiring because the lines are tucked deep in there near the steering rack and rear MM. And I'm still trying to figure out the wiring bits. I'm going to work on it tomorrow with my laptop and manuals.
Justin, did you use your Protege starter and alternator wiring? It looks like it from your pics. I'm using the Milly wiring but might hit a snag with the signal wires from the fuse block.
Got the axles in, finally. I changed one of the spring clips and it popped in easier. Oh, and we put on the CF spoiler and mirror covers. And new rear endlinks. I need to see if I have enough cash for the HardRace lower control arms ($315 shipped for the pair) for the new ball joints in them. O'Reilys wants ~$220 for one ball joint because they only sell the lower control arm. And it doesn't seem RockAuto sells ball joints for my car. Then I can at least finish the suspension. Oh, speaking of suspension, my CS strut tower bar juuuuust barely hits a bolt head on top of the intake mani. Ugh. I might have to shave the bolt off since it will probably never be removed anyway. (knock on wood)
Here's a shot of the DGM spoiler. It took a long time to get the bolt holes lined up perfectly, then peel off the 3M tape backing and getting everything centered before sticking it down. But it came out well.
And lastly, my GF made a lovely supper again and baked "duck" cupcakes. I've got my projects in the garage, she's got them in the kitchen. heh-heh. ps- Phen, we didn't use your grill, don't worry.
I'm sure Wes will post his pics later.
I've got the brake booster vacuum line ran to the IM. Had to return the power steering hose to O'Reily's (wrong size). We got a 5/8" line but it's still not fitting over the power steering hardline from the power steering pump. But is the right size for the resevior. I might have to return that and use 3/4" and find an adaptor for the resevior.
Here's the harline for the PS pump I need to try to stretch the 5/8" hose over. Josh is going to check the FS if the hardline will bolt up, though it looks like from the manual it won't.
No luck on fuel lines. I need 11/32" but only 3/8" is stocked locally. And at $8 a foot, I want to make sure it's going to work before buying it. So I'm going to keep looking.
Ordered the MX-6 radiator, should be here Wednesday. Hopefully the moron at O'Reilys ordered the right part this time...
Here you can see where the Griffin radiator hits the alternator. And the Miata radiator won't work either since it's positioned more to the right 5".
I want to get the fuel lines buttoned up before I do anymore wiring because the lines are tucked deep in there near the steering rack and rear MM. And I'm still trying to figure out the wiring bits. I'm going to work on it tomorrow with my laptop and manuals.
Justin, did you use your Protege starter and alternator wiring? It looks like it from your pics. I'm using the Milly wiring but might hit a snag with the signal wires from the fuse block.
Got the axles in, finally. I changed one of the spring clips and it popped in easier. Oh, and we put on the CF spoiler and mirror covers. And new rear endlinks. I need to see if I have enough cash for the HardRace lower control arms ($315 shipped for the pair) for the new ball joints in them. O'Reilys wants ~$220 for one ball joint because they only sell the lower control arm. And it doesn't seem RockAuto sells ball joints for my car. Then I can at least finish the suspension. Oh, speaking of suspension, my CS strut tower bar juuuuust barely hits a bolt head on top of the intake mani. Ugh. I might have to shave the bolt off since it will probably never be removed anyway. (knock on wood)
Here's a shot of the DGM spoiler. It took a long time to get the bolt holes lined up perfectly, then peel off the 3M tape backing and getting everything centered before sticking it down. But it came out well.
And lastly, my GF made a lovely supper again and baked "duck" cupcakes. I've got my projects in the garage, she's got them in the kitchen. heh-heh. ps- Phen, we didn't use your grill, don't worry.
I'm sure Wes will post his pics later.
justanothermp5
Banned
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- Rust Bucket
stick on? you have to stick the spoiler on?
Hell yeah, man. Just some electrical tape. heh-heh, no Simon. There is a bolt on each end holding it on, then I used 3M double sides tape on the ends and all along the top. That bugger is on there solid. And it certainly won't rattle like my old one started to do.
Justin, can you see, or remember, which fuel line is supply and which is return from the Protege firewall? I see in the Milly manual, the line closest to the firewall on the KL is the supply line.
I'm gonna run to O'Reily's tomorrow to grab that 3/8" fuel hose and hook up the fuel lines so I can finish the bloody wiring harness already. I'm getting impatient and just want my damn car running already. Soooo much researching is killing me. heh-heh
I'm gonna run to O'Reily's tomorrow to grab that 3/8" fuel hose and hook up the fuel lines so I can finish the bloody wiring harness already. I'm getting impatient and just want my damn car running already. Soooo much researching is killing me. heh-heh
PrinceValorum
Member
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- 95 626 FS, 89 Toyota Derux 4x4
Good job poopie face tomatoe nose. See you tomorrow...
Sheesh, you and Pablo moving in on my man. Back off!
I didn't have my good camera with me today, so I'm not happy with how these pictures turned out, but they'll be better than nothing.
A nice blury picture of the wonderful wrapping job Evan did on the wiring loom. It's like a big shiny sausage of newness.
These are the fuel lines. They're really close, but finding the right inner diameter hose is the trick.
your hardlines look smaller than mine...weird..My hoses have 3/8 still marked on them. I will check the return and feed lines on the firewall in a few when I go to leave. I have a friends graduation to attend to but i'll update once I get there from my phone. Also, for the P/S line I got a hose that was very snug over the suction hardline on the pump and was kinda loose on the reservoir. It was loose, but clampable We took several sizes from my friend's work and didnt keep track of each sorry I can't help on that size.
Isn't there enough Evan to go around???
Evan,
I used these: BECK/ARNLEY Part # 1015075 + 1015074 from rockauto. Our LCA's do not have replaceable ball joints, thus we need to order new arms; my SE-R was the same way. Regardless, $59.79ea from RockAuto AND you get new LCA bushings too (mine were shot); hopefully that saves you a buck or two
Also, very jealous that your motor is in
Looks great though, looking forward to seeing it run. You're running OBDII milly electrics or no?CheeseHelmet
Member
Evan,
I used these: BECK/ARNLEY Part # 1015075 + 1015074 from rockauto. Our LCA's do not have replaceable ball joints, thus we need to order new arms; my SE-R was the same way. Regardless, $59.79ea from RockAuto AND you get new LCA bushings too (mine were shot); hopefully that saves you a buck or two
You're the second person I know who seems to be happy with the Beck/Arnley LCAs. I ordered a pair a while back and what I got wasn't pretty: on one, the smaller bushing was pressed in too far and on the other the stud coming out of the ball joint was much looser than it should have been. Rockauto also has Dorman LCAs for less than the Beck/Arnley ones and they come with a "limited-lifetime" warranty. I'm tempted to get those...
Thanks, mate. I really appreciate it. I might just have to custom order a size for the power steering pump, no worries. Something smaller than 3/4" but bigger than 5/8". heh-heh
Evan,
I used these: BECK/ARNLEY Part # 1015075 + 1015074 from rockauto. Our LCA's do not have replaceable ball joints, thus we need to order new arms; my SE-R was the same way. Regardless, $59.79ea from RockAuto AND you get new LCA bushings too (mine were shot); hopefully that saves you a buck or two
Also, very jealous that your motor is in
So that's why I couldn't find a part number online for ball joints from anyone. Haha! Thanks!
And yes, basically an OBD2 Milly electronics. I was hoping to stay OBD2 for emissions and without a CEL but it's not looking that way. But I'm still using the OBD2 Milly harness and my motor is an OBD2 motor, with a MAF. But it won't pass emissions so I'm going to run it catless and register it to my GF's house. Take that, E-Check.
Speaking of OBD2 though, I have 4 O2 sensors for the Milly harness and USDM ECU, but my header only has 2 O2 ports since it's for an OBD1 motor (MX-6, PGT). So should I ask Josh if he can weld in some 02 bungs into the lower headers with some non-foulers to trick the ECU or will it run without the rear 02 sensors, just with a CEL? The exhaust isn't assembled and will need custom welding anyway, bungs are cheap and so are Josh's lobor costs but at the same time, if it doesn't matter then why spend the money. Just thinking outloud.
I think I read about someone else in that HardRace LCA thread about getting some wonky parts from B/A so I went with the Raybestos. Still, $178 shipped for both new LCA with bushings and ball joints is a lot easier to pull the trigger on than the $320 HardRace LCA's. Thanks guys. Now at least I can finally finish the suspension. New ball joints, bushings, Escape endlinks and coilovers. She's gonna feel like a brand new car!
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