Lewis7789 2002 Protege5 build thread (tons of pics)

[PrinceValorum]

I'm for sure not a head gasket expert.. I still think you should do a leak down test. That'll give you a much better idea, and the engine doesn't need to be running to do it, either. The only problem I foresee is if there's a bit of rust or corrosion on the valves or the valve seats that could throw off the seal. You gotta get this handled before your warranty is up, though, and the deadline is coming up fast.

Your oil didn't look like this, from my quick glance, so that's why I'm not jumping to conclusions.

 

[THE Phen]

Yeah... no mayonaise, you're usually ok. Have you done a compression test on it? Leakdown test would be key.

When I get home, we'll remove the heads and check things out.

 

[PrinceValorum]

Yeah... no mayonaise, you're usually ok. Have you done a compression test on it? Leakdown test would be key.

When I get home, we'll remove the heads and check things out.

The motor isn't running, or even in a car, and your arms would fall off turning the motor over by hand to do a comp check. That's why I recommended the leakdown, you just use the air compressor to do it, so it doesn't have to be running. His warranty period will be up by the time you get home. =/

 

[THE Phen]

Nah, compression check is easy. Just take all of the plugs out when you do it, except obviously the cylinder that you want to test. I've done them by hand before. It's not the easiest, but not too bad either.

 

[JKPgt96]

KL36, yes..that will be fine. As mentioned a leakdown test would be a good idea..

 

[justanothermp5]

leak down or compression, they are 2 completely different things...its impossible to do a compression test by hand, you cant turn the motor over fast enough
leak down however, you can do, and its incredibly easy, it would also tell you about the head gasket, rings, and valves

and fyi, if the engine hasnt been run in a while, the oil cap can look like the one above, and not have a blown head gasket...

 

[PrinceValorum]

and fyi, if the engine hasnt been run in a while, the oil cap can look like the one above, and not have a blown head gasket...

The engine had been run recently. The intake mani was coated on the inside, there was more chocolate milk oil inside the throttle body, the heads look terrible, and there were noodles and rice in the coolant system, so basically the engine is a gigantic mess... And there was reported to be a bunch of smoke out the exhaust while it was running, from what I heard.

 

[justanothermp5]

oh no, sorry, wasnt making a statement towards your particular case, just saying, ive seen numerous cars that have milky, nasty looking oil caps,
and the oil actually in the car is fine, just condensation building up on the oil

 

[Lewis7789]

Thanks for the info guys. I'll google the compression test and do that just to be sure. The oil cap was clean on my motor but they could've cleaned it before shipping. The oil pan wasn't nearly as milky and foamy as that pic, Wes, but the oil just didn't look "right" to me. It was really thin and lighter in colour. But what was left of the coolant in the block that came out when i tipped the motor over didn't seem to have any oil in it, just a brown color like it hasn't been changed in a while. But the motor probably has been sitting around in warehouse for a while too so who knows.

I decided I'll just pull the heads off and replace the head gaskets anyway. It's worth the $90 in gaskets for the piece of mine knowing they are new and are in good shape and I'd like to know for sure if I have flat top pistons or not. I still need to read the Haynes manual and a few online How-To's on how to remove the heads and replace the gaskets but I'm sure it's nothing I can't handle. I'll mark the orientation of all the cams and teeth and such and just take my time. No worries.

In other news, I bought a KLZE 5 speed trans today. I know I don't need a JDM tranny, but this was a great deal, very clean, with a starter and the intermediate/jack shaft.

 

[03zoomzoom]

you do know that I have alldata access right? There's no need for a haynes manual.

 

[Lewis7789]

Here's a newb question; what's "Alldata access"? You work at a Mazda dealership, right Chris? Can you hook a brotha up??? I wish I had something to offer in return...

 

[03zoomzoom]

I'm the parts guy at a Cadillac dealership, but alldata is an internet based website that tells you how to work on all makes/models. even has some part numbers and prices.

 

[Lewis7789]

Oh sweet! I just looked up their website. $26 a year isn't bad at all. I might just have to subscribe. I'll do more research on it tomorrow. Thanks for the heads up, mate!

 

[PrinceValorum]

I've still got the factory service manual, also. It's ridiculously through, something over 1500 pages... The one I have for the Miata gives measurements between every hole in the chassis, measured every thinkable way for frame straightening in case of an accident. Obviously it requires the right machinery, but that's how much info is in there.

I was under the impression that a tool was needed to reinstall the cams, but I just asked yesterday, and that's not the case. I think the head bolts are 12-point 12mm, but I may be confusing it with the Miata now. You already have 12-point sockets, so you're set! Don't worry, we out number this motor, we'll get everything fixed up and you'll have the sexiest sounding P5 out there!

 

[JKPgt96]

Heads are simple to remove. Here is a quick list:

Remove VC's
Remove Cam Caps(You need to do this part in the correct sequence!) (10mm bolts)
Remove Cams
Remove Coolant neck
Remove Black plate (between belt/motor)
Remove PS tensioner
Remove PS pump
Remove Alternator(top bolt unbolts, then just loosen the lower bolt a turn or two and the alternator will rotate down and pop right out)
Remove head bolts (need a 12pt. 12mm socket) (this must also be done in the correct sequence)

On the cams you will notice a dimple on each cam gear (the ones that mesh together under the VC's). The dimple is on the side of the gears that faces the transmission, not the side that faces the belts. Those dimples need to be lined up, that is how you align the cams. Each cam has a dimple. When re-installing the cams you HAVE to make sure the cams are all the way back in before you try to put the cam caps back in. If they are not all the way back in then you will snap the cams. It's really not that hard, but you would be surprised how many people mess it up by not paying attention..

 

[Lewis7789]

Thanks, mate. Sounds simple enough. I'll go ahead and replace the head gaskets just to be safe. It's worth the $85 in gaskets for a piece of mind.

I'm on RockAuto.com right now and it says they reccomend replacing the head bolts as well. But for $73x2 for each head, is that really necessary? I mean, I want to do the job right but $146 for bolts necessary?

edit- nevermind, I'm dumb. It would just be $73, not $143...

 

[hat1018]

The head bolts could be what is called "torque to yield". Which basically means they stretch and cannot be used again.

 

[Lewis7789]

Thanks, Larry. I'll toss those in the shopping cart too.

 

[justanothermp5]

yea, most head bolts are torque to yield bolts, at least most of the engines i have seen

 

[JKPgt96]

The KL bolts are torque to yield, for sure. You could mic them to see if they are in spec still. Or buy new ones..Hell, ARP studs are only 220 bucks...just a thought.