justanothermp5
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the pistons look good clean, but you know they'll turn black like 3 mins after you start it up, right? haha
Lewis7789 2002 Protege5 build thread (tons of pics)
- Thread starter Lewis7789
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Well, it took me about an hour of meticulous cutting, grinding, sanding and polishing with the Dremel tonight but I hour-glassed my throttle body butterfly. Every little bit helps! heh-heh
I have a question about this part on my distributor. It was busted off during shipping. I don't know what it does but I can see it was mounted in the little metal coupler. Can I just carefully solder it back in? Or do i need to do more research and find out what it is, what it does and how much it will cost to replace.
I have a question about this part on my distributor. It was busted off during shipping. I don't know what it does but I can see it was mounted in the little metal coupler. Can I just carefully solder it back in? Or do i need to do more research and find out what it is, what it does and how much it will cost to replace.
PrinceValorum
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- 95 626 FS, 89 Toyota Derux 4x4
What about dremeling down the other parts of the throttle plate stick thing on the outside of the screws? Or would that compromise the structural integrity of the piece?
jonridinhi
Member
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- 2001 MP3/2010 MX5/1996 MILLINIA (donor)
that is a resisor I can take a pic of where is goes. As far as the tb remember you have coolant running through the boby there so do not go hog wild on the outside but that is as far as I would push the shaft.
You can also cone the TB to get rid of the step in there..
Heads look good, those are pretty clean. I would do something about matching the manifold to the heads..either match the heads, put on a klg4 IM, or use a set of phenolic spacers that transition from square to oval. Also, I think you will benefit from have DE heads over ZE heads for being an n/a car.
I am using DE heads on my 10k rpm build.
Heads look good, those are pretty clean. I would do something about matching the manifold to the heads..either match the heads, put on a klg4 IM, or use a set of phenolic spacers that transition from square to oval. Also, I think you will benefit from have DE heads over ZE heads for being an n/a car.
I am using DE heads on my 10k rpm build.Wes, I think I'll just leave the TB how it is. It took me a long time just to remove that much material. Keep in mind there isn't much room to work with in there either.
Jon, I see the little bracket, curve section where it goes and where it looks like it was spot welded from the factory. I was just wondering if I could use some epoxy or solder it back into place instead of buying a new one.
JK, I think you meant IM, not TB? And I already "knife edged" that step on the IM you're talking about. I'll snap a pic tonight. I'm all about better airflow, especially when it's a free mod. And I've got Outlaw spacers coming so I was planning on matching the square runners to the oval runners with the spacers and my Dremel. And I agree, the more I think about it the happier I am I have DE heads. The valve retainers are more reliable and non-interference is nice for a daily driver.
Jon, I see the little bracket, curve section where it goes and where it looks like it was spot welded from the factory. I was just wondering if I could use some epoxy or solder it back into place instead of buying a new one.
JK, I think you meant IM, not TB? And I already "knife edged" that step on the IM you're talking about.
I'll snap a pic tonight. I'm all about better airflow, especially when it's a free mod. And I've got Outlaw spacers coming so I was planning on matching the square runners to the oval runners with the spacers and my Dremel. And I agree, the more I think about it the happier I am I have DE heads. The valve retainers are more reliable and non-interference is nice for a daily driver.I am talking about the TB. There is a step in the TB before the throttle plate.
Take this as you may..I jumped timing a couple times when I had a ZE in my car and never had an issue bending a valve..I did have DE heads on the car and ZE heads (jumped timing once on each set). But I do not believe that the little extra diameter on ZE valves would cause the motor to be interference..my 12:1 pistons..definitely interference..a ZE..I do not believe so.
Take this as you may..I jumped timing a couple times when I had a ZE in my car and never had an issue bending a valve..I did have DE heads on the car and ZE heads (jumped timing once on each set). But I do not believe that the little extra diameter on ZE valves would cause the motor to be interference..my 12:1 pistons..definitely interference..a ZE..I do not believe so.
jonridinhi
Member
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- 2001 MP3/2010 MX5/1996 MILLINIA (donor)
Yeah it is not the valves that make the ze an interference (that is a debate on probe talk). Lewis you got the best block setup for turbo without forgeing there. The only improvement is that would be easy would be if you could get the lighter crank out of the klg4. The milly rods are stronger than regular de's and g4's. And the resistor reads off of resistance so soldering it may work but may cause issues too. I recommend a new one. Save some head aches down the road.
That is what happened to the spare KL I got. It jumped time too. time to make it a manual tensioner.
Wes, yeah that is why he has the screen name. He is a probe guy at heart. Hence the probe in the garage now. I will let him post the build specs. More of a bring it back to life but hey while we are here why not. LOL
That is what happened to the spare KL I got. It jumped time too. time to make it a manual tensioner.
Wes, yeah that is why he has the screen name. He is a probe guy at heart. Hence the probe in the garage now. I will let him post the build specs. More of a bring it back to life but hey while we are here why not. LOL
The klg4 crank is only miminally lighter than the g4 crank..not the 8 pounds or so that was originally thought. And it is not forged. Forget getting it, it is really not worth it. And for n/a there is no need for millenia S rods. For one, the stock rods will hold all the n/a power you want. And two, the S rods a significantly heavier than the stock rods..which of course is not good for spinning a n/a motor especially..
jonridinhi
Member
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- 2001 MP3/2010 MX5/1996 MILLINIA (donor)
Not the stock milly 2.5 (not miller s) rods are beefier than the normal KL rods. Instead of a tooth pic they are a pencil. LOL. Not much but I will take a little. The crank is not forged is a debate as well (how can this engine be so unsure for being so old) but hey and there is a thread that it is 6.2 lbs lighter. I think that was over on the 626 side. I personally liked the MAF and no distrib side of the house too. One person says one thing someone else says another. I am just looking foward till WHEN lewis decides to boost it
Waiting on the exhaust for the probe as we speek. LOL
Waiting on the exhaust for the probe as we speek. LOL
Thanks for all the info guys. It's great there are some cats in here with hands-on knowledge of the KL. I really appreciate everyones help.
Here's the knife edge of the IM I did. I should've taken a before pic for reference but meh.
And you guys can always post videos, pics, specs and anything else you like in this thread. The more you post, the more I'll learn, so feel free.
Here's the knife edge of the IM I did. I should've taken a before pic for reference but meh.
And you guys can always post videos, pics, specs and anything else you like in this thread. The more you post, the more I'll learn, so feel free.
Well Pablo and I got the timing belt on last night. It took a couple tries but i think we have it aligned right. I turned the motor over twice and everything was still aligned. And because I'm freaking paranoid I turned it 4 more times. It still lined up okay. Got the timing belt cover back on and FINALLY put the valve covers back on. I'm still waiting on my bloody intake spacers so I can match the oval/square runners. They shipped Friday Dec 10th from Indy which is only 5 hours west of me. Then the USPS tracking number says they were in Harrisburg, PA on Monday, which is 4 hours EAST of me. Now they are in freakin Philly. I hate you USPS! ugh
But I took a quick pic of the motor. It's coming along nicely.
But anyway, I ordered new accesory belts from Rockauto (Gates belts) and we to put them on with the Unorthodox Underdrive pulley and realized they were way too long. Oh s***. Duh. Haha! So I was trying to track down the proper belt sizes for the smaller pulley and came across quite a few posts on PT about how the UR pulley might cause headaches. The screws can come out of the back, poor alternator charging, etc. Ugh. Aparently there is a "revised" version with bolts, not screws. And I don't have a huge stereo system in my car so that's not really an issue. I bought the pulley used for $70 but if it's going to be a pain to deal with, I might just use the OEM pulley, even though it's freaking heavy... I'm doing more research now.
Oh, and that broken resistor just simply unplugs. So hopefully I can find a part number to replace it. It's pretty confusing with all the different variants going on with this build for ordering parts. Hell, I don't even know what year the motor is. I tried ordering belts from Autozone by just giving the guy the part numbers and he insisted on looking up the car make/model. So I told him; It's a J-spec Mazda Millenia motor going into a Protege5. So he just used the part numbers I supplied him with. haha
But I took a quick pic of the motor. It's coming along nicely.
But anyway, I ordered new accesory belts from Rockauto (Gates belts) and we to put them on with the Unorthodox Underdrive pulley and realized they were way too long. Oh s***. Duh. Haha! So I was trying to track down the proper belt sizes for the smaller pulley and came across quite a few posts on PT about how the UR pulley might cause headaches. The screws can come out of the back, poor alternator charging, etc. Ugh. Aparently there is a "revised" version with bolts, not screws. And I don't have a huge stereo system in my car so that's not really an issue. I bought the pulley used for $70 but if it's going to be a pain to deal with, I might just use the OEM pulley, even though it's freaking heavy... I'm doing more research now.
Oh, and that broken resistor just simply unplugs. So hopefully I can find a part number to replace it. It's pretty confusing with all the different variants going on with this build for ordering parts. Hell, I don't even know what year the motor is. I tried ordering belts from Autozone by just giving the guy the part numbers and he insisted on looking up the car make/model. So I told him; It's a J-spec Mazda Millenia motor going into a Protege5. So he just used the part numbers I supplied him with. haha
PrinceValorum
Member
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- 95 626 FS, 89 Toyota Derux 4x4
Lmao those guys are so clueless.
And that motor looks friggin hot, pretty similar to the MPS one I sent you that pic of. Can't wait to hear this beast in action. Your neighbors are gonna love you sooo much.
justanothermp5
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if you can avoid using the UDP, i would...
i have an unorthadox racing UDP on my car, and one of the screws in the back came out,
and took out my crank sensor at the same time
im taking it off as soon as i can get new belts, its making this horrid sound like metal on metal
i know its a diff motor an all, but just a heads up
i have an unorthadox racing UDP on my car, and one of the screws in the back came out,
and took out my crank sensor at the same time
im taking it off as soon as i can get new belts, its making this horrid sound like metal on metal
i know its a diff motor an all, but just a heads up
Chipmunk and Wes, I was kinda hoping for an OEM look to the motor so I think the colours will turn out well.
Thanks Simon, I'll probably leave it off. Too many mixed reviews of it and I am building this motor for reliabilty and performance. Plus I can just use the good Gates belts already in my garage. heh-heh.
Thanks Simon, I'll probably leave it off. Too many mixed reviews of it and I am building this motor for reliabilty and performance. Plus I can just use the good Gates belts already in my garage. heh-heh.
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