jasyatz build thread

[jasyatz]

Can you provide some details about these? Specifically, are there any issues getting the Focus shocks to fit?

Sure details are: Focus AGXs fit on a lowered Mazda2. The shocks are 2" shorter than the 2's stock shocks and require (1) singe flat washer to shim the lower mount because the lower mount sleeve is 1mm more narrow than the mount in the rear beam..

Here's a pic of The AGXs next to the Fiesta Autox kit Bilsteins.

 

[jasyatz]

Car looks good. Where did you get the camber plates from?

They are slightly modified Focus Camber Correction kits. They are slightly adjustable, but best left maxed out. You do need to tack weld in the bolts because on out upper hats, you can't get to the retaining nuts. You will need to order slim(jam) nuts to fit the supplied bolts to get clearance in the hat/Bearing area. The kit does come with jam nuts, but they were the incorrect thread pitch.

here's the kit.

You have to knockout the studs in the stock mount

Then attach the hardware as per the directions( after cutting dwn the bolts and installing the slim nuts)

Nets -0.6 camber and and additional 0.5 of caster.
because these plates use the stock upper mounts, can be used with ANY lowering spring or Strut. The kit is around $60 and needs another $2 in hardware and someone wit a welder( if you want to make sure the hardware stays tight)

Forgot to note, and it's a big note..This kit DOES raise the ride height by about a 1/4", not a huge deal with lowering srings, but may need to get a spring spacer for the rear to even out the height since most Lowe spring kits are lower in the rear anyway. It didn't matter to me with the Bilstein Kit.

I only used these because I had clearance issues with the 7.5" wheels and the Bilstein strut housing getting more than -3.0 camber.Otherwise I could have just left the -2.5 that I gt with the camber bolts. The bonus was getting more caster.

 

[inspekt]

Nice work! Bold moves too, I'd be too scared to jump in that deep. Glad to see the great autox results you're posting too!

 

[jasyatz]

Nice work! Bold moves too, I'd be too scared to jump in that deep. Glad to see the great autox results you're posting too!

Thanks..the car is very good now, it's very close to being worthy of a trip to Lincoln..

All mods I've done so far are completely reversible back to stock..The plates sound difficult, but I could make another set in 20 min.

 

[phobus]

Great stuff, thanks for sharing.

Sounds like there's a good chance the rear Koni Sports for the Focus would work, too. At $120 each from Tire Rack, that could be a nice inexpensive option for these cars.

 

[jasyatz]

According to Koni's specs, they will... At least the length height and bottom mount fit, whether the rebound valving is too much at full stiff that's the question...but since they are infinitely adjustable, definitely worth it. Still trying to figure out a front setup. I've got the inserts figure out for a stock class car ( cut an modify the stock strut tube to accept an insert) but there's no way to convert the stock struts to accept a coilover without some serious reengineering. Then it would be a custom double insert. Im sticking with the Bilstein fronts and having them revalved to suit a spring rate not yet decided on.

 

[flatlander937]

What are your impressions on the filled stock motor mount? Good enough or would poly be the way to go if you did it again?

 

[jasyatz]

Good enough. I would do it again...it's certainly not as stiff as the poly mounts, but it doesn't vibrate the steering wheel like crazy either with the AC on...Shifts are better, but you still get a bit of slop when the motor winds up under load.

 

[flatlander937]

Eh that's kind of what I figured. I have a half canister leftover of 3M Window Weld from when I filled an OEM Mazda3 mount when I had that car... I filled the passenger side mount though, not the lower mount.

I'm debating which way I want to go myself.

Any plans on coming this way for a Wilmington event? We've got a ridiculously nice site where we've been hosting some National/Pro-Solo events the last year or so.

 

[jasyatz]

We actually talked about coming for the double weekend, but couldn't put both my and my co drivers vacation schedules together. I'd love to come out that way again. I heard the site is awesome. My only trip out that way was Toledo in 05 in a SM Civic 90 plus F, no AC, no radio, drove it all the way there with a 4.40 gear and an SI box...What a trip it was!

PA is a long miserable state to go through, but I will do it again..

 

[flatlander937]

That sounds like a miserable drive for sure!

To see the awesomeness that the Wilmington site is, here's a run of mine from the divisional event we had last month(it was also our local region PE #1):

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xZM2uTIzrQY


If you do make it out this way let me know, I'd love to see your 2 and have an excuse to grab a beer and wings or something. If you make a long trip of it, you can go to the America's Packard Museum in Dayton which is an incredible place to step back in time... nothing autocross related in the slightest but if you like old cars or seeing the evolution of technology it's a great place to see. And it's cheap... like $6 cheap.

http://www.americaspackardmuseum.org/the_museum.html

I've got a few pictures of the place when we went there for a friend's wedding reception(I was jealous of the location) if you're interested, I don't want to clutter up your build thread though so I can just PM them or something if you want.

 

[jasyatz]

holy sea of concrete..definitely on my list of sites to visit.

 

[jasyatz]

So I just got this in my inbox yesterday, seems the Tri Point "rear sway bar" is not a legal item in STF. Although the bar is very good and does what is was designed to do, ( increases rear combined rate under cornering load), it does it in a manner that does not involve a twisting action which is the purpose of a sway bar (more correctly classified as an anti roll bar )... With Doug's permission, I am posting his letters

Here's his letter..

From: Doug Gill
Date: May 19, 2014 11:51:42 AM EDT
To: Jeff Yatsko

Hi, Jeff,

It was brought to my attention that I may have given you poor information. I'm following up after I've learned more. I believe I was incorrect in saying that the Tri-Point sway bar is a suspension brace per 14.2.G.3. It looks like it attaches to suspension components and 14.2.G.3 only allows attachment to the chassis.

I'm so sorry for any errors on my part. I did not mean to be misleading.

-Doug
Doug Gill
SCCA Solo Technical Manager

The DDMworks bar, Corksport bar and Racing Beat bar are ALL legal...here's his reply to that effect.

From: Doug Gill
Date: May 19, 2014 6:36:25 PM EDT
To: Jeff Yatsko
Subject: Rear sway bar clarification

That works as an anti-roll bar.

It doesn't necessarily have to have 2 bends to be an anti-roll bar. It has to resist body roll by twisting. The 2 bends create 2 levers to put a twist on the torsion section of that particular anti-roll bar.

The Racing Beat bar, (and the CorkSport/DDMWorks design) use the trailing arms of the torsion beam axle to create the twist.

-Doug
Doug Gill
SCCA Solo Technical Manager
1-800-770-2055


The Tri Point bar comes off today, maybe I can make a camera bar out of it..

Jeff

 

[jasyatz]

Well a lot has happened since my last build post. With the Tri Point bar (which is excellent!) now being illegal for STF, had to start from scratch again with the setup.

Heres reboot number 4:

Changed front springs to 550#, installed Racing beat Fiesta front bar (25.5mm compared to stock at 19mm)

Changed rear springs to 380# Eibachs that I had from an Integra coil over kit (they are a Ground Control part number and 8" long so they fit perfectly and give a very decent ride height in the rear.

Removed the Tripoint rear brace and the GM suspension torsion beam stiffener ( since at the time the Tri Point bar was classified as a brace awaiting further clarification; now illegal altogether, so you COULD have a torsion bar stiffner also)

Installed rear Racing Beat sway bar,

Increase front camber to -3.3 with the modified front upper strut hats

Installed DDM short shifter and shifter housing bushings; The overall shifter feel is up 300%. Crisp and smotth upshifts and perfect throw reach for downshifting. I used to have trouble leaving the start line finding second gear iof the course dictacted shifting while navigating a transition, 2 events now, perfect shifts every time...Thanks Zach for all your developement work!!!

New set of Rivals (205/50/15). They just work. Out here in Jersey anyway. Just got fisnihed with the last set. I bought them as 5/32" takeoffs from Andy Hollis and he ran then for a few test sessions with the CRX. I put 4,000 miles and over 100 runs on them, wore the rears right down to the carcass, and only then did they give up dry grip. Actually with the shocks on full soft they still had grip, but at the airport runway event we ran on, i wasnt chancing NOT having rear grip.

What I learned about the car.

Front spring rate is very good, and very manageble to drive every day 9 months out of the year. Front struts need to be revalved and matched to the new rate, and that will be this winter.

Rear spring rate is perfect; could probably go a little higher, but 450# springs in 2.25" diamater made the ride horrible. I would have never thought that 15% less would be perfect, but it is. The rear KYB AGX's are too much rebound for the car. With them on 8, the car porpoises madly in trail braking and heavy front corner loads. With them on 4, its about perfect. No push on entry, no mid corner push, slight drift to oversteer mid corner on left and puts the power down on exit. (If Im not patient on exit I will get wheelspin, but as soon as the wheel is straightend out, no more spin! You cna actuall moderate the wheelspin with the steerin wheel now, which is something I couldnt do before the front springs. It would just light them up ( see previous videos and listen to the audio)

This is as far as Im taking it. Front strut revalve is all shes getting. If its a winner, great; If not; fine. I still have a fanatstic daily driver that WILL trophy at any event if I keep my head in it. It will run HS Mini raw times, and have been testing against some of the quickest MINI drivers in the country. Can my car win Nationals, nope; Unless something flukie happened, but the likelyhood of me getting out there next year is slim. I may go to Ohio next year, to try and meet some of the Nationals guys halfway, but we will see.

5 events left on the local calendar this year (excluding late fall and winter events) but I feel the setup is 95% where I want it..Im not willing to sacrifice any more to get the last 5% (seats, light and loud exhaust, crazy superlight wheels, 3 different brands of tires for wet, dry and concrete)..

The car is great...and Im happy with it...Pictures and video to follow...

 

[jasyatz]

Forgot to mention, you can steal the Tri Point bar from me if you want it...Looking to get $120 shipped to you...You'll need to paint it if you want it pretty; I've been applying coats of paint ever time I took it off. Tri Points paint process sucks, but the Rustoleum is holding up quite well...This is the best rear "sway bar" money can buy for the car IF you have either a: stock ride height or midly lowered car OR have a custom exhaust that has a smaller diameter muffler (than stock) OR you are willing to clearance your muffler and evap box for the bar whence installed.
The car never felt better that when this bar was insatlled, but it has been official dis allowed as a rear "sway bar" by the SCCA for stock and STF competition. If you run with any other club, you are good to go, or can run the car in FSP or higher with the SCCA.

It transforms the car on road courses, thats why it was specifically designed for the BSpec cars.

Can post pics on request..

 

[inspekt]

Awesome.

 

[jasyatz]

End of 2nd season update:
It's been a "good" season, not the results I was looking for. Honestly I'm a bit discouraged by it but this off season will have the front struts revalved to suit the car and the spring rate I've landed on.

Good: Car turns in amazing and up until mid corner is perfect; its a king in the slaloms. Won some cash and tire at the tour, and can regularly run HS pax times going up against a couple of top 5 Mini drivers in the country. Rides a ton better with the 380 rear springs than it does with the 230 Bilsteins. Rear sway bar is too much for colder events, even the small bar makes a cold day miserable. Removing the rear bar makes the car ride on the street even better, and you really cant notice a difference in the handling. (with the 380 rear springs)...Front spring rate is 550 and the RB front bar doesn't make the wheel spin issue worse, car turns in like a monster; really feels great.....but

Bad: wheel spin issues plague this car (on the tire I've chosen). Have changed front springs rate up and down, no front bar, big front bar, stock front bar; no better no worse. Can't get 100% on power under after the apex or unless the wheels are somewhat straight. I've been told the Rivals don't have great forward bite, the Kooks are much better. The new Kuhmos should be released about the same time the Pro Solo comes back to NJ. Choices choices.

Really bad...spent some time in the Fiesta ST and I like it; I really like it... so much in fact I've had a "conversation" that involved numbers regarding acquiring one from a buddy of mine at Ford.

Either way I've accumulated 3 rear sway bars, 4 sets of rear shocks, 2 sets of wheels, 2 front sway bars, 2 sets of front struts complete with upper hats, 4 free BFGs, a couple hundred bucks from Mazda, a 2nd place Tour trophy and a regional SCCA STF championship. Wasn't really a bad year, but I was hoping to be higher than 7th in total pax points, and a second quicker than the Minis.

February will bring more updates whence the front struts are done.

Things on the offseason list:

Revalve front struts
What tire to try next?
Less front camber (closer to 2) if the wheel spin isn't solved by changing tires, was also this bad with the Dunlop so mayb it is too much static camber.
Koni Doubles in rear or is the KYB enough? I'll find out after the revalved front struts are in...

OR
Does the ST make it into the driveway?
But it's so much fun to drive so I'm torn in baling on it. Here's some pics from the MSNE event in 45deg temps with a 30mph NW wind in our faces. Video to follow.

 

[flatlander937]

Congrats on a good year! I too drove a FiST and it was fun(I did an auto-x like course at a Ford Ecoboost challenge event in Columbus), but I still like the simplicity and light weight of the 2... The Fiesta feels very heavy to me.

And what kind of Koni doubles are you planning on in the rear? I have some fancy tricks up my sleeve for the front and I'll share that myself once I make some more progress. I'm unsure of what I want to run in the rear.

 

[jasyatz]

Not sure if I want to go that route. Believe it or not, the KYBs seem to be up to the task so far. I picked up a set of doubles from a Fox Body mustang for less than $100 for the pair just in case I wanted to go that route. QA1 has a rear double that fits perfectly also and has both adjustment knobs at the bottom of the shock. At $239 each and user revalvable, they are on my short list also. It really depends on how well the front works after the revalve.

 

[flatlander937]

You know Koni sports are available now right? And worst case scenario they can be revalved to their RACE 8610 specs if you want.

Edit: for a not too crazy expensive option, I'm kind of floating the idea of some Penske 7500 SAs. http://shop.penskeshocks.com/PENSKE-RACING-SHOCKS-7500-SERIES-SHOCK/

I'm not too crazy for doubles, as long as its valved right to begin with. Rebound makes the most difference, and for me having more knobs will just be more to screw up