Its always something with these cars. Please help.

caseb4

Member
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Mazdaspeed Protege
About two or three months ago, in savannah georgia, I was driving down the freeway and my car started to overheat. I put some water in it and hopped back on the freeway. Well this is where I start havin a problem. The car starts to overheat again and the car starts decelerating on its own no matter how much gas I give it. Well to me it sounded like a head gasket. Well a few weeks ago I changed all the gaskets from the head up. The car now will start but has alot of trouble and then I have to keep giving it gas for it to not shut off. Well I just realized that the spark plug gap that advance auto told me was wrong so when I went to fix that I noticed there is oil in all but the first cylinder. Now when I got the gaskets I decided to hold off on doing the valve seals. But I dont think the valve seals are bad for three cylinders. This s*** has been driving me crazy. I mean I already replaced the motor, turbo, tranny, and then in the new tranny I had to replace the lsd. Im tired of fixing this car. The motor was replaced at 37,000 miles. It currently has 117,000. Oh and one more question, would the pcv valve has something to do with the oil on the pistons? Please help me solve this. Thanx.
 
Did you change the head gasket?? If you did and the leak was still there, I hope you bought different head bolts. Oem head bolts are torque to yield bolts, and should not be reused. That can cause a sealing issue with the head gasket.
 
There was just enough oil in the cylinders to cover the piston. I took a long q-tip down in the cylinders and it only wet the tip of the cotton. I did replace the head bolts when I did the head gasket and they were torqued to spec and in order. But just in case I got the torque spec and order wrong, can someone post it to be on the safe side? I did do the vts and vtcs removal in the intake manifold at the same time I did the gaskets. And also to be on the safe side to do the timing you just put it at top dead center and then line up the marks on the cam gears right? I did see oil getting into the turbo, do you think the valves have something to do with all this? And maybe the pcv valve? Thanks for any help I really appreciate it. I just want my car back and running right.
 
im getting oil into my combustion chamber as well, im thinking its the valve seals as i got it rebuilt with different valves and springs, and the valve guides needed to be machined to fit, which i believe wasn't done so it screwed the oil seals, but im gettiing it in all four as opposed to you only getting it in three, i don't believe the pcv valve would do it but you could always change to the millenia s pcv valve its only $20 or so
 
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Whenever I did the gaskets and had the exhaust manifold off I remember looking inside the ports and seeing oil on top of the valve. I am actually going to tear it down today. I just wonder if the valve seals would make it run like there is a vacuum leak cause that is what it feels like. I'm kinda concerned that the intake manifold might have a leak after I did the vts and vtcs removal. I definitely plan on getting that millenia pcv valve though. Thanx again.
 
Well I started working on it today and noticed my camshaft sensor wasn't screwed in all the way. I tightened it down and when I started the car it still shuts off when idling but if I give it gas it sounds fine. it doesn't sound like its misfiring when I'm giving it gas. So I'm thinking there is a vacuum leak. Another thing I noticed was the brakes aren't working either. I bleed them today and it just made the pedal harder to push. So either there is something wrong with the caliper or its a vacuum problem too. So thinking of the vacuum problem I took the intake manifold off and checked the gasket thats in between the two pieces of the manifold. It didn't seem to be leaking but I'm not so sure my car likes the removal of the vtcs butterflies which are the ones closest to the head. The bad part is I cut the rail that held those butterflies in order to seal the hole that the rail slid out of on the side of the manifold. The only thing that doesn't make since is if you get an upgraded intake manifold it doesn't come with vts or vtcs anyway. And I really don't think leaky exhaust valve seals would cause it to shut of at idle because they were leaking before the head gasket blew and the car idled just fine then. I'm stumped, maybe its the timing, egr valve, or a sensor? Whatever it is I've got to figure it out before I leave for the Air Force because I'm suppose to drive it to Athens where it will sit until I get back. Thanx for the help everyone.
 
Maybe the Idle air control? Oh and the car has had the same gas in it since before I replaced the head gasket.
 
Is there any cel?? Do you have a vacuum gauge? Use one to ck for vacuum leaks to rule it out. If the brakes feel hard and car stalls due to possible vacuum leak, then check the vacuum hose from brake booster to intake manifold for leaks. For timing, the crank must be at tdc and the cam gears must face eachother with the i and e marks perfectly horizontal. As for oil in the cylinder, its ether head gasket, piston rings, or valve seals. But when you think about it, for 3 cylinders to all have oil, I highly doubt the piston rings or valve seals for all those cylinders went bad at once. I have a feeling the head or even the block is warped especially since you said the car has overheated multiple times. That would cause all 3 cylinders to have oil, also causing misfire, and huge vacuum leak. If you want, perform a compression test to rule out rings, and do a leak down test to rule out valve seals. But to me it seems like the head maybe warped.
 
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