Is my MSP turning into a POS??

go to another dealer. mazda trained a bunch of incompetent ninnies that dont know squat about aftermarket mods and expected them to be able to diagnose that s***. they need to contract these cars out to performance shops that know what the **** they are doing.
 
not to be a dick or anything, but i would suggest going in with a guy, you'll get a better response from the service department.

as for your problems, they're all fairly common and they should know how to fix them. the clunk has a tsb (the number is on here somewhere) so they really have no choice. many other people have had problems with their alarms doing the same thing too. i'd suggest digging on here for a few threads with these problems, print them out and bring them in. mazda also issued a release to all of their dealerships that says that they must honor warranty work on all mazdaspeed cars regardless of whether they are a mazdaspeed dealer or not. i know that's on here too somewhere. hopefully this helps, all the answers are on this site somewhere :) if you still need help, i've got about 8 hours tomorrow from 730-4 (30 mins for lunch) that i can search and try to find some stuff for you, but i'm not doing it tonight, i'm not getting paid right now
 
all problems: http://www.msprotege.com/vbb230/showthread.php?t=50549
http://www.msprotege.com/vbb230/showthread.php?t=43443&highlight=alarm+problems
clunk: Issue: The "Clunk".
<HR>What: If you've ever heard a rattling or loud banging noise in the trunk area when you go over a bump or crack, you have the "clunk".

Why: Mazda used an alternate setup for the suspension and did sort of a 'cheap' alternate, making the suspension system incomplete. The root problem is a combination of a few things, however, it is somewhat repairable.

How To Fix: If you car has the "clunk", you will want to go to your dealer and get the newest rear suspension bushings on your car. There are several 'improved' bushings that Mazda has made, however, all have eventually failed. The newest bushing has been out since early October and while it did show promise, several members have reported that they, too, have failed. Seems that they did last a bit longer, however. Most D-series lasted a few days before the clunk returned while the E-series seems to last a few weeks and/or months. If you go in to have your bushings replaced, the part number for those newest bushings ends in "156E". Do not let the dealer give you the "156D" series as, again, the D will fail very quickly.

Mazda has released an official Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) for the clunk so if you dealer gives you a hard time, it'll be a bit easier to show them what's wrong. The TSB text is included below.

UPDATE: Keep in mind that the Mazda bushings replacement is just more of a temporary "band-aid" than it is a fix. We do, however, have a great member on board who goes by Micahspeed who has spent a great amount of time developing a better fix. More information about this fix may be found here, here, and here. Keep in mind that this is not an official fix and Micahspeed is not related to Mazda in any way, shape, or form.

TSB:
Code:


CLUNK/KNOCK FROM REAR SUSPENSION OVER BUMPS Applicable Models Model Starting S/N Ending S/N 2001 PROTEGE 00000000 ZZZZZZZZ 2002 PROTEGE 00000000 ZZZZZZZZ 2003 PROTEGE 00000000 ZZZZZZZZSymptoms and ConditionsA clunk/knock can be heard from the rear suspension from MP3 and MAZDASPEEDvehicles when driving over uneven road surfaces such as speed bumps.Repair ProcedureInspect rear sway bar bushings, if excessive clearance is found replace bushing with improved part. Part Information: Improved bushing - BN7H-28-156D (MP3 N MAZDASPEED ONLY)Important Note: Lube bushings prior to assembly with a silicone paste to prevent premature wear and/or squeaks.Copyright Mazda North American Operations</PRE>
threads: http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=39459&highlight=clunk+tsb+number
http://msprotege.com/vbb230/showthread.php?s=&threadid=38170&highlight=clunk+tsb
http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=14133&highlight=clunk+tsb+number
make sure they replace it with an "E" series bushing, meaning the part number should end in 156E.
also if you still have your stock wheels just go back with those on so they can't blame it on the wheel

alarm: "Issue: Alarm Keeps Parking Lights On When Activated.

<HR>What: When you set the alarm with the remote, the parking lights & tail lights stay on. Can and will cause the battery to die if you don't notice or get it fixed.

Why: The alarm control module is defective

How To Fix: Return to dealer and have it replaced under warranty. Be prepared to wait a long time, however, as these parts were/are on national backorder. Until then, you just have to lock the doors inside & not use the alarm. There is a way to remove the alarm completely, however, this is a public forum and it would be stupid to tell people how. Consult your local audio professionals if you choose to remove the alarm until the new unit gets in.

TSB/M-Tip: Not available."

<!-- / message -->
threads: http://www.msprotege.com/vbb230/showthread.php?t=71212&highlight=alarm+problems
http://www.msprotege.com/vbb230/showthread.php?t=54453&highlight=alarm+problems
http://www.msprotege.com/vbb230/showthread.php?t=36566&highlight=alarm+problems
http://www.msprotege.com/vbb230/showthread.php?t=31668&highlight=alarm+problems
 
Thanks for your help jred 321 and JDM SAM. Oh and I didnt take that comment the wrong way, i will probably take a guy with me. It's sad when you know more about your vehicle than the guys who work for mazda (chair)
 
Back