Yep – plan is to do UCAs, LCAs, lateral arms, and RTABs all at the same time.If you're going to do the rear LCA's, do the trailing arm bushings at same time that way you don't have to buy the special tool. But you will still need a press.
Yep – plan is to do UCAs, LCAs, lateral arms, and RTABs all at the same time.If you're going to do the rear LCA's, do the trailing arm bushings at same time that way you don't have to buy the special tool. But you will still need a press.
I guess my dyslexia is kicking in b/c I just did brakes. Now this got me thinking if mine is different b/c I'm aftermarket pins (previously bought new set with boots) or if b/c these are MS3 calipers? hmmm.Actually that's the BMW one! The one on the right was off my 5.
Hunter FTW. Did you provide these alignment values to the shop to set or did they set it for you? The alignment number look good for DDer. Looks almost, exactly like my previous setup except I opted to toe in rear every-so-slightly for more stability (not stock setup so rear was well planted and rotates).Got an alignment today. Printout attached. Pretty okay with the results for now. Everything up front is new – struts, control arms, and tie rods – but everything out back is original AFAIK.
At some point I'll replace the rear LCAs, UCAs, and lateral arms, plus the rear trailing arm bushings. Anyone think I should get camber correction arms while I'm at it? I'd rather stick with OE-style to keep it simple, but I'm open to opinions.
Had this done at a Subaru dealership and got a '22 Outback as a loaner. Wife said she felt like a soccer mom in the Outback whereas she doesn't in the 5. Another win for the 5 – and for my taste in life partners.
In other news, looks like I've lost a bit of coolant. Can't see any steam from the tailpipes. Can't smell coolant. Oil on the dipstick and under the cap looks as it should. Could the heater core have developed an air bubble from years of non-use in TX or something, and I just flushed it out when I used the heat recently? Hoping it's either that or an external leak...
I see your $25 funnel kit and raise you https://www.dollartree.com/funnels-3pc-sets/131122 (all you need is the big one, small one is great for filling trans fluid via cup, middle one can be used for filling motor oil) and some old rag towels Once warm, don't forget to squeeze the upper hose to apply pressure to force out air."EPAuto Spill Proof Radiator Coolant Filling Funnel Kit". This makes
Have you replaced the rear springs yet?
Heh, I had actually asked them to set the FRONT toe as close to zero as possible while keeping it positive. Seems they thought "front" meant "rear" there. Hopefully my next alignment will correct that.Hunter FTW. Did you provide these alignment values to the shop to set or did they set it for you?
Good to know. Thanks.The alignment number look good for DDer.
Roger that.If coolant is low, there's a leak. If there's air in the heating core then there's likely a leak letting air in. Run coolant dye. It's the only way to find minor leaks.
Sorry, my bad!Interesting. Will check when I can.
I have not. Should I?
Does it sound like some hollow sound, like an empty plastic box or something rumbling somewhere? And only happens when you go over the bumps?On the other hand, I'm noticing a weird undamped vibration over some bumps. It's like what happens in big trucks and buses, which jiggle a bit with every impact – except it only happens over some bumps. Can't tell if it was always there and I'm just now noticing it, or if it has developed recently.
This isn't just a noise. It can be clearly felt.Does it sound like some hollow sound, like an empty plastic box or something rumbling somewhere? And only happens when you go over the bumps?
I had a such experience with my first gen mz5. I even replaced the shocks and struts assemblies, thinking this is related to failure of that part at the top of the strut tower. And the sound is still here intermittently.
Please share any information you figure out about this!
I can assume you did your tire research but why opt for AS 4 series instead of summer when you are planning on dedicated winter tires? Seems like you are trading-off for something that you'll never benefit and expecting an AS to perform like a summer series. But it sounds like anything will exceed the whatchamacallit that came with that car so you can't go wrong!At least in the dry, the Michelin Pilot All Season 4 is turning out to be an excellent match for this car in my use. I can drive as enthusiastically as I want to on public roads and still have a ton of margin for error. I had hoped for a bit more of a sporty feel than I got, but my expectations on that point are probably unfair. What's important is that the grip is there in spades. That's a great thing because I like how deep into summer and early in spring I can run this tire (will switch to winter tires only in the coldest months), and I'm glad I don't have to accept subpar levels of summer grip for that privilege.
Almost hoping it rains soon so I can try it on a wet road. That's where I expect the biggest margin over the tires the car came with.
Great question. And yes, there was a lot of mulling.I can assume you did your tire research but why opt for AS 4 series instead of summer when you are planning on dedicated winter tires? Seems like you are trading-off for something that you'll never benefit and expecting an AS to perform like a summer series. But it sounds like anything will exceed the whatchamacallit that came with that car so you can't go wrong!
Yep. Just left it off for the pic.Make sure you put the battery cover on. Or, when your weatherstripping fails at the cowl, which it will, rain will get under the battery and rot everything out.
Nice find. I like that the terminals are not reversed, like the 34 Interstate I'm using. Not sure how I missed 48 but I wonder if Costco didn't have them on the self at the time.Weirdly, the battery apparently picked today as its last day. On the bright side, I got to confirm that this beast fits (barely):