PlatinumMSP
Member
- :
- Blazing Yellow 03.5 MSP
well its a giant vacume leak, so yeah it seems that way, we'll see when I get the car backBlack_Protege_5 said:
How-To: VTCS Removal and Porting
- Thread starter flat_black
- Start date
Black_Protege_5
Member
- :
- Mazda Protege 5
And you sold all of your parts.
PlatinumMSP
Member
- :
- Blazing Yellow 03.5 MSP
yup except for the Greddy Type RSBlack_Protege_5 said:
Black_Protege_5
Member
- :
- Mazda Protege 5
lol. What parts did Rob buy.
PlatinumMSP
Member
- :
- Blazing Yellow 03.5 MSP
he didnt buy any of them actually, I gave him my old intake manifold for helping me out, he's porting it and selling it to rnajeraBlack_Protege_5 said:
Black_Protege_5
Member
- :
- Mazda Protege 5
lol. So who bought your exhaust and FMIC
PlatinumMSP
Member
- :
- Blazing Yellow 03.5 MSP
Black_Protege_5 said:
His name is ForcedBoost on the forum, lucky bastard. He's going to love his parts... man I already miss them sooo much. Alright lets stop this thread jack for now.. I gotta get to class and then go pick up POS rental car, later man
Black_Protege_5
Member
- :
- Mazda Protege 5
Have fun. I will just sit here bored at work. Then I get to go to skool tonight.
hey guys you remember my problem? the car would start and stall, or the car would stall if i give a little gas on startup,
too much air flow compared to the fuel ratio.
my hypothesis was good, i calculated that putting an MP3 which air-fuel ratio on startup is a little different, would fix it..
WELL YES!
SO GUYS IF YOU GET ISSUES LIKE THIS, GET YOUR HANDS ON AN MP3 ECU instead of wasting $$$ in checking leaks and stuff.
im pretty pleased with it now. finally i can drive without thinking about the fact thta the car stalled when i started it couple of minutes ago
have a nice day. if you have questions, feel free to ask
too much air flow compared to the fuel ratio.
my hypothesis was good, i calculated that putting an MP3 which air-fuel ratio on startup is a little different, would fix it..
WELL YES!
SO GUYS IF YOU GET ISSUES LIKE THIS, GET YOUR HANDS ON AN MP3 ECU instead of wasting $$$ in checking leaks and stuff.
im pretty pleased with it now. finally i can drive without thinking about the fact thta the car stalled when i started it couple of minutes ago
have a nice day. if you have questions, feel free to ask
Guitarcrazy
Member
Help ....
First time poster .. long time reader.
Well yesterday I started the vtcs job, etc. removing the manifold/tb. I also had purchased a Outlaw Engineering spacer kit .. figured I do them at the same time.
After trial & error, after measuring the steel pipe (after praying for the strength of Samson ...) managed to move that a mighty 1/4".
That was about 7 pm. So I finished getting everything back together today. Went to start the car .. and instead of the 'normal' idle .. I got 3500 rpm @ start. Which dropped to about 2200-2400 in sporadic intervals (best description for the uneven revving of the engine .. rough idle). Before I rip this thing apart again, any one have any experience or ideas of what might cause that?
In the Outlaw instructions .. it says you may have to adjust your throttle cable length. I haven't been able to find any information on exactly how to go about doing that (in the downloadable manuals). That might account for the high idle speed.
The kit contained both the thick 'plastic' (my generic term for it ...) gasket, as well as two, paper like gaskets for each side. I didn't use any sealant .. which I'm now thinking was a big mistake.
I'm fairly certain (I did take pictures during ...) that I didn't miss any vacuum lines or electrical connections putting it back together (it looks complicated .. but as you are familiar .. everything is spaced to fit perfectly .. making it almost idiot proof
As far as the manifold itself .. I took a little different route. Instead of completely removing the vacuum actuator (sp) & bar, I opted instead to just unscrew the butterfly pieces (in case I change my mind). I did do the porting while I had it out (was really surprised at the ~ 1/8" lip on the bottom side that needed to be removed). Really only did just the bottom .. as I felt that it caused the biggest restriction to the air flow.
Thanks to all for this great forum.
First time poster .. long time reader.
Well yesterday I started the vtcs job, etc. removing the manifold/tb. I also had purchased a Outlaw Engineering spacer kit .. figured I do them at the same time.
After trial & error, after measuring the steel pipe (after praying for the strength of Samson ...) managed to move that a mighty 1/4".
That was about 7 pm. So I finished getting everything back together today. Went to start the car .. and instead of the 'normal' idle .. I got 3500 rpm @ start. Which dropped to about 2200-2400 in sporadic intervals (best description for the uneven revving of the engine .. rough idle). Before I rip this thing apart again, any one have any experience or ideas of what might cause that?
In the Outlaw instructions .. it says you may have to adjust your throttle cable length. I haven't been able to find any information on exactly how to go about doing that (in the downloadable manuals). That might account for the high idle speed.
The kit contained both the thick 'plastic' (my generic term for it ...) gasket, as well as two, paper like gaskets for each side. I didn't use any sealant .. which I'm now thinking was a big mistake.
I'm fairly certain (I did take pictures during ...) that I didn't miss any vacuum lines or electrical connections putting it back together (it looks complicated .. but as you are familiar .. everything is spaced to fit perfectly .. making it almost idiot proof
As far as the manifold itself .. I took a little different route. Instead of completely removing the vacuum actuator (sp) & bar, I opted instead to just unscrew the butterfly pieces (in case I change my mind). I did do the porting while I had it out (was really surprised at the ~ 1/8" lip on the bottom side that needed to be removed). Really only did just the bottom .. as I felt that it caused the biggest restriction to the air flow.
Thanks to all for this great forum.
PlatinumMSP
Member
- :
- Blazing Yellow 03.5 MSP
Guitarcrazy said:First time poster .. long time reader.
Well yesterday I started the vtcs job, etc. removing the manifold/tb. I also had purchased a Outlaw Engineering spacer kit .. figured I do them at the same time.
After trial & error, after measuring the steel pipe (after praying for the strength of Samson ...) managed to move that a mighty 1/4".
That was about 7 pm. So I finished getting everything back together today. Went to start the car .. and instead of the 'normal' idle .. I got 3500 rpm @ start. Which dropped to about 2200-2400 in sporadic intervals (best description for the uneven revving of the engine .. rough idle). Before I rip this thing apart again, any one have any experience or ideas of what might cause that?
remove your plastic cover and spray carb cleaner around the intake mani and the lines and see if the idle changes, if it does, then you have a vac leak, when i did mine I didnt torque the manifold down enough and it left a huge leak
In the Outlaw instructions .. it says you may have to adjust your throttle cable length. I haven't been able to find any information on exactly how to go about doing that (in the downloadable manuals). That might account for the high idle speed.
The kit contained both the thick 'plastic' (my generic term for it ...) gasket, as well as two, paper like gaskets for each side. I didn't use any sealant .. which I'm now thinking was a big mistake.
I'm fairly certain (I did take pictures during ...) that I didn't miss any vacuum lines or electrical connections putting it back together (it looks complicated .. but as you are familiar .. everything is spaced to fit perfectly .. making it almost idiot proof
As far as the manifold itself .. I took a little different route. Instead of completely removing the vacuum actuator (sp) & bar, I opted instead to just unscrew the butterfly pieces (in case I change my mind). I did do the porting while I had it out (was really surprised at the ~ 1/8" lip on the bottom side that needed to be removed). Really only did just the bottom .. as I felt that it caused the biggest restriction to the air flow.
Thanks to all for this great forum.
- :
- NO MORE MAZDA!
The 1.8 FP-DE has no VTCS it's has only VICSflat_black said:
- :
- Hemi Ram, 71 Plymth Scamp, 71 Plymth Duster 340, 69 Dart 340/4sp
Cut them off if they stripped. Or use a dremel and grind them off.
^^ yeah I was probably going to go at them with the dremel. I'm taking a break while my drill is getting a bit of a charge back in it. sucks that I don't have any jb weld otherwise I'd remove the rod tonight too. All of my gaskets were crazy dried up though so I think I'll buy some gaskets and when they come in I'll take it apart again and get the rod out.
