How-To: VTCS Removal and Porting

Yea. You can leave the actuator plugged into the the solenoid but block off the input line. And that line that split into both solenoids should now only go into the vics solenoid. Also make sure the all the bolts are tight on the intake mani. Any small leaks can effect your idle.
 
It still reads off for some reason. I thought the same thing but I kept getting a check engine light but once I plugged it it went away.
 
well i tried that and i still got a freaky startup idle :S. its better tho, but its ****** up. as soon as i give a little gas its OK, but im worried about this winter, when ill start the car earlier, i dont want it to have ups and down idling like crazy

ill try to reset the ecu
 
Ok this is WAY too easy. You need:

1 vacuum nipple cap.

That's all! Just cap off the VTCS solonoid on top, (you can leave it hooked to vacuum from where it is T'd in.)

But Leave the electrical connector plugged in or u will get a CEL.
 
I've had this done now for about a month. Cold starts are going to be rough because you have removed something from your manifold on which the ecu thinks is working properly. When I start my car it goes to about 2k RPM then drops to normal - faster than what it did with the VTCS but normal nonetheless. My idle is a little more erratic but what do you expect when you're allowing more air into your engine than what was originally intended. Basically, what I am saying is that your car is going to run like crap until it gets warmed up - even more so if you've removed the TB coolant lines like I have. I see it this way, you can either start your car 10 min. early and let her warm up or just drive around at or above 3k RPM until she's warmed up. I get all sorts of weird hesitation and things when she's cold but as soon as I hit 3k RPM or once she's warmed up she runs just fine. Oh yeah, I an assure you I do not have any vacuum leaks - it's been checked by my shops and by certified Mazda techs and a Mazda dealership (it was fun explaining to them what I had done, but they checked it out for me for free anyway). If it means anything, I actually still have the VTCS actuator still plugged in but it isn't connected to anything (just hanging there). When that's my little rant...

For those who don't want to read: Removing VTCS will cause funny idle and rough driving when car is cold due to larger than average initial airflow.
 
Accck... The comments of the erratic idles are turning me off. Is this mod still worth it to the ones that couldn't fix their idle problem?
 
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but my idle problems when cold is more like going from 2k to .4k on and on again, until i give a little gas!

so im worried about the fact that if i start my car one morning to heat it a little, well its going to do that crazy idle thing for all the time i had it running, just until i put my foot on the gas pedal.
 
It will run like crap when it's cold, but its worth it. These cars warm up in like 2 mins anyway, even in the winter. After I went turbo though, my cold start issues were gone. (Probably replaced by other issues.)
 
1 minute or better of warmup time gets rid of the cold drive away issues. Also other mods have a big effect on the drivability. I recently put my car back to stock (took off the Injen and HKS Hiper). The cold driveaway is almost completely gone.
 
ok i finally just freakin hate my cold start s***. it stalls like an anus for like the first 30 seconds. i hate it.

i think its because there is too much AIR vs too few gas.
i was wondering if i change my injectors to have more gas at first.
OR
buying an mp3 ECU to have a better gas timing

any ideas? im going back to stock next week if i dont find an issue
 
I don't have any cold start what so ever. My idle runs high from the minute I turn it on till I turn it off. Since I did this my idle stopped getting low and have gotten less engine vibration. I don't know why ppl are having so many problems. Mine started great the first time and is still running great.
 
i here your pain. but have you takin the time to make sure theres no vacum leaks or all the sensors are ok. did you use new gaskets?? i hate to have you put the flaps back in just have the cold start problems still after its back to stock.
 
iracemine said:
i here your pain. but have you takin the time to make sure theres no vacum leaks or all the sensors are ok. did you use new gaskets?? i hate to have you put the flaps back in just have the cold start problems still after its back to stock.


gasketSSS?

i thought there was only 1 gasket? i bought a new one for this ya..

is there anyother gasket?
 
Well did you remove the whole intake mani or half. Either way you will have 2 gaskets. The one going to the head either way and if in half the gasket between the upper and lower half needs to be replace or the TB gasket if you removed it whole. You could do with just silicone for the throttle body but thats it. And make sure you have everything tight.
 
well i took out only half, i had to unsrew the tbody, i removed it but i dont remember seeing a gasket there?!

any tips pics or anything?
 
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