How-To: Proper Car Washing Techniques

NCZ13

Member
The most important part about maintaining your cars finish is proper washing and drying techniques. Proper washing and drying techniques can and will greatly reduce that amount of marring and swirls as a result of general care. A scratch free wash system is possible, but requires the upmost attention to detail and technique. As well as the proper tools needed to get the job done properly.




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These are the products ill be using to clean my wheels and tires.
The leftmost bottle is a product called p21s gel wheel cleaner. I like it for its cleaning power, and gel factor which helps it cling to vertical surface w/o running off fast. Probably one of the safest and best wheel cleaners on the market, that does come at a price. It is on the pricey side at 22$ per quart.
The middle bottle is what i use to clean tires. Its Meguiars APC D103. Its diluted 4:1 (4 parts water to 1 part cleaner). its decent at cleaning tires. Are there bettter products? yes. But its what i have so ill use it. Its cost effective, because Megs APC is cheap (16$ a gallon) and can be diluted in many different ways for different jobs.
The bottle on the right is Chemical Guys gel wheel cleaner. Just like the p21 its a gel based cleaner. The upside is that its significantly cheaper, and can be diluted (that particuler bottle is 3:1) A gallon of cleaner will diluted to 5 gallons of cleaner. And at 20$ per gallon its very cost effective.

I also have an assortment of brushes to clean every part of the wheel.
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Here is the wheel, hasnt been cleaned in almost 2 weeks.
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I apply the cleaner while the wheel is cool and dry. The products i use are already safe and diluted, so hosing the wheel down prior will just dilute the cleaner more when i spray it on the surface.
I like to spray the wheel cleaning product on the dampened brush. This serves 2 things. Prevents overuse of product, and i find that it foams up much better, and i can see where ive agitated and where i havent.
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once the wheel face is done i use the spoke brush to get the inner barrels clean. sam technique of spraying a couple squirts on the brush.
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rinse it off
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After i do all the wheels and tires, i give the car a thorough rinse. Then i spray APC on the upper and lower grilles, and the rear badges. I agitate using a soft brush.

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These are the car washing products ill be using. Ill be doing the 2 bucket method, and using grout sponges and Optimum car wash as my shampoo. Its important to dilute your wash according to the bottle because to much shampoo will be just a waste of product, and could strip off whatever wax is on the car.
My car needs no more than 2 gallons of wash water, therefore i fill my wash bucket to two gallons, and measure out my shampoo. I add to it the wash water, because if i did it the opposite and poured the shampoo in first than added water, this would have caused unneeded soap suds, and would make the amount of water added unmeasureable. Suds is nice, but isnt what gets teh grime off your car. Wash water is meant as a lubricant for your sponge or mitt to slide the dirt off of. So you want the solution to be slippery.
I chose optimum car wash because I had waxed my car last week, and just wanted to do a quick wash (ive been using ONR for the past month or so ive been wanting to do an actual wash for awhile, More on ONR later). OPT car wash is a great product, at a decent price 11$ for 32oz. It also smells heavenly, like blueberries.
The 2 bucket method is self explanatory. 1 bucket is filled with clean water and used to rinse out the wash media. This keeps the wash water clean and reduces teh chances of scratching your cars finish by grit that was stuck on your sponge.

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I wash panel by panel starting on the hood, and roof. After every panel, or half of a larger panel, i rinse off my sponge in the rinse bucket. After the horizontal panels i go around the car starting on the drivers side fender and wrapping around counter clockwise around the car, finishing on the front bumper, making sure to rinse my mitt every panel. I have this method, because my car gets cleaned once a week, therefore my lower panels dont see a ton of dirt buildup.
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After the car is washed and rinsed, go over the car again with the water free flowing from the hose. This will sheet the water on the panels, and reduce the amount of water left on the surface, thus making drying faster.
These are the drying towels that i use. They are both from exceldetail.com. The towel on the left is by far one of the softest waffle weave towels ive ever used. the one on the left isnt as soft, but holds and absorbs more water than the lighter blue one (which is called the monteray waffle weave btw)

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all done
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I also cleaned up the muffler. I had noticed it was getting kind of dull as of late, So i used the left over wash water and an old sheepskin mitt and gave it a good washing. After it was dried i gave it a quick polish with mothers power metal polish. Just to brighten it up a bit, not looking for a serious turnaround.
 
Here are some car washing tips:

-dont wash in the sun. This is my number one rule. It just makes it hard to clean the car properly, and will leave all sorts of streaking and waterspots.

-the sheeting method mentioned above works best on a car that has some form of LSP on it. Claying also plays a role, because a freshly clayed car will also sheet water, but not as nicely when done while waxed.

-It is also much easier to wash a waxed and clayed car. an unclayed car can make washing and drying painful because the mitt and towel will get caught in the grit embedded in the paint, causing a dragging feeling. On a clayed and/or waxed surface the sponge/mitt will slide across effortlessly, and also make drying a breeze.

-If you drop a sponge/drying towel/etc dont put it back on the paint. youd be surprised on how bad a finish can be messed up because of a little grit.

- Dont use to much water when filling up your wash bucket. I have never used 5 gallons of wash solution to wash a single car, therefore its unneccesary to have to use that much each week.

- NEVER let any wheel cleaner unless specified fully dry on your wheel. This is especially true of over the counter acidic wheel cleaners. Products like p21s gel wheel cleaner can be left to dwell for over 2 hours. Also use the appropriate wheel cleaner for your wheels. Products like p21s, and CG gel wheel cleaner are safe for all wheels.
 
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Great write up! Stickied.

I'm surprised you use a foam sponge. Any reason why? I find they are prone to collect and drag sediment. I use a microfiber sponge myself.

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Here's advice for those who have no choice but to wash in direct sunlight. When washing the car use plenty of soap and do not rinse off until you are finished with the whole car. The soap will prevent water spot build up. Also, dry the windows first because since they do not have a wax coating they dry faster and are susceptible to etching.

In terms of drying, if you have access to a Wet/Dry vac or something with forced air pressure, "Not a leaf blower" and with a small nozzle attachment, then you can easily remove water from panel lines, door handles, mirrors, window surrounds, etc. These are are prone to rust more frequently over time if not dried.
 
thanks guys, theres been a a bunch of car washing related threads as of late, so i figured rather than try to write proper car washing techniques over and over i could just do a write up.

i like grout sponges because they actually release dirt really really well, more so i feel than a sheepskin mitt does. And they are pretty soft (and get more softer with use.
 
Great write up! Stickied.

I'm surprised you use a foam sponge. Any reason why? I find they are prone to collect and drag sediment. I use a microfiber sponge myself.

I think the idea came from autopia. There is a large following over there about the grout sponge. I personally would never use one for the very reason you stated. The margin for error is far higher with a foam sponge. I use something that sucks dirt/grime/etc. up into the nap so it can't be dragged along the paint finish. Several guys that swear by them, but I won't take that chance on a Ferrari or Aston.

I used a wool for a while but they get heavy and shed a lot. I use a channel mit.

Which brings me to a point. Not that NCZ's methods are bad, but "proper" methods is very subjective. No one way is the right way. Personally I don't use any of these methods, but doesn't mean they're wrong. But for those that are looking for this kind of info, just make sure you do plenty of research before just choosing what one guy says is right.
 
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precisely. These are my techniques that ive found to work best for me. There are many different kinds, which is why i titled the thread Proper car washing techniques in hoping that some of you would post up your similar how tos, so people can get an idea on how to do this properly.

I use grout sponges because they are cost effective, they release dirt really well., they hold a good amount of solution, and last a long time. Ive gone through several mitts, and was tired of replacing them. They are pretty soft (and get softer over time)

I actually have a test panel. Its the targa top from a c6 vette. What i was going to do was polish the thing to perfection, tape off sections, and use different media and techniques to show how they effect clearcoat. For example, use a grout sponge on one square, a wash mitt on another. I also wanted to test how much marring an aggressive claybar actually does to a finish. I do realize that vette clear is hard, but its what i have for the moment so im gonna try to make it work.
 
Here's advice for those who have no choice but to wash in direct sunlight. When washing the car use plenty of soap and do not rinse off until you are finished with the whole car. The soap will prevent water spot build up.
I have an issue with this....and correct me if Im wrong.....If you elect to "not rinse" you risk leaving a dried soap film and the dust/debris on. The secondary purpose for rinsing (next to diluting the soap, again) is to flush the dirt and debris off the panel.
Your not going to get permanent water spotting with one wash. Most quick detailers will remove the spotting.
If forced to wash in sun with traditional products, start at the top sections, wash, rinse and dry. Move to the next section, wallah.
Theres always Optimum No Rinse Wash and Shine as well.
 
I have an issue with this....and correct me if Im wrong.....If you elect to "not rinse" you risk leaving a dried soap film and the dust/debris on. The secondary purpose for rinsing (next to diluting the soap, again) is to flush the dirt and debris off the panel.
Your not going to get permanent water spotting with one wash. Most quick detailers will remove the spotting.
If forced to wash in sun with traditional products, start at the top sections, wash, rinse and dry. Move to the next section, wallah.
Theres always Optimum No Rinse Wash and Shine as well.

I'd have to agree with you. Here in TX in the direct sun if you don't rinse you are sure to have a dry car once you get around to rinsing. And at the point just rinsing may not be enough to remove the dried soap and dirt back off. If you are careful you can wash, rinse, and dry a section at a time. But OPT no rinse is your friend!
 
I have an issue with this....and correct me if Im wrong.....If you elect to "not rinse" you risk leaving a dried soap film and the dust/debris on. The secondary purpose for rinsing (next to diluting the soap, again) is to flush the dirt and debris off the panel.
Your not going to get permanent water spotting with one wash. Most quick detailers will remove the spotting.
If forced to wash in sun with traditional products, start at the top sections, wash, rinse and dry. Move to the next section, wallah.
Theres always Optimum No Rinse Wash and Shine as well.


is this patrick?

I picked up some towels off of you over the summer. I have yet to find better drying towels than the monterey.
 
True, there are other factors involved including climate, location, condition of vehicle, etc. It's actually advice I picked up from pros on those websites. Go figure.
 
In addition to using the 2-bucket method, Grit Guards at the bottom of your buckets will greatly reduce instilling swirls on painted surfaces since the guards prevent grit from contaminating your sponge.
 
I have an issue with this....and correct me if Im wrong.....If you elect to "not rinse" you risk leaving a dried soap film and the dust/debris on. The secondary purpose for rinsing (next to diluting the soap, again) is to flush the dirt and debris off the panel.
Your not going to get permanent water spotting with one wash. Most quick detailers will remove the spotting.
If forced to wash in sun with traditional products, start at the top sections, wash, rinse and dry. Move to the next section, wallah.
Theres always Optimum No Rinse Wash and Shine as well.

I agree. After I was some parts of a vehicle, I will rinse the whole car to keep the soap off and any debris the wind blows onto it. I try not to wash a vehicle in the sun but, it happens to many vehicles that I clean. If my clients want me to buff the vehicle after wash, I advise them I will not buff their vehicle until it's been clayed. I explain and show them why it must be clayed 1st. Down here in Deep South Texas, there is always sun, humidity and high speed winds. Ugh After I do a little section with clay, then show it to them, you will be amazed how shocked they are.

Anyways, I'm getting of the subject. LOL Again, I will never wash a vehicle without rinsing off the soap several times during the wash.

Stephen
 
So I used some paste wax on my car a while ago, guess i didnt completely remove it all, and its left a dull smear spot in my hood. What can i use to get it out? i bought some spray was today, it does good in polishing, but the dull from the wax is still there.

I will never use paste wax again.
 
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