How-To: Kill Clunk Cheap!!

lcruz64

Member
:
03 MSP
Parts needed:
2 AWR MP3 Urethane Replacement Bushings
They are red not black not sure why they are like that on awr.com
Image #1
4 Home Depot Replacement Bolts (Optional)
Image #2

Tools needed:
Craftsman 3/8 in. Drive Flex Head Ratchet (Recomended)
Image #3
14MM Socket standard length and deep
17MM Socket standard length and deep (Home Depot Bolts)
3" Extension Bar

Suplies needed:
Grease
Thread Lock
 

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Instructions:
Please locate rear sway bar bushings.
1) Using standard length 14MM socket and rachet remove bottom bolts.
2) Using standard length 14MM socket, 3" extension bar and rachet remove the top driver side bolt.
3) Using deep length 14MM socket and rachet remove top passanger side bolt.
4) Remove brackets and bushing.
5) Grease the bushings on both sides.
6) Place bushings on sway bar and mount the bracket.
7) Apply thread lock to bolts and tighten.

This is what it should look like when you're done.
Image #1 & 2
This will make the rear suspension a bit more rigid and I did not hear any noises associated with this mod and most important no CLUNK.
Home Depot's bolts are 17MM instead of 14MM on the head but still 10MM on the thread so they fit just like stock but grip a lot more space on the bracket.
Enjoy
 

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I just ordered the bushings, 15.50 for 2, but shipping is 10 bucks..bleh! As long as it fixes the clunk. Thanks for the howto
 
or you can engergy suspention 21mm sway bar bushings for $15 You need to bend the brackets alittle.

or AWR is fine...whichever replaces those bushings.
 
i was looking at the energy suspension method, but why bend the brackets when the awrs will just replace
 
CHICO2003 said:
for those still under warranty... why not just bring it in to the dealer?
Because some people have a burning hatred for their dealership whose flame is brighter than a thousands suns, so much that it sears the flesh and consumes the mind.

Or they just enjoy doing the work themselves. :D
 
peepsalot said:
Because some people have a burning hatred for their dealership whose flame is brighter than a thousands suns, so much that it sears the flesh and consumes the mind.

Or they just enjoy doing the work themselves. :D

Or they know it will just be the next denied warrenty claim... i'll save myself the trouble. If you have a good dealer go for it... I dont have that option.
 
Not to slam this clunk fix but???

I don't understand what the new bolts do? Could someone explain that

and

When you replace the bushings you get rid of the clunk, until those bushings wear, stretch and crack, then you get the clunk back.

Mazda will sell you replacement bushings (or free under warranty) which you can change at home in less then 30 minutes. They are cheaper then ordering and paying shipping.

The only solution to the clunk is a "Clunk Bracket" which I am producing.

Check out my signature or jump to this tread
http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123624849&page=1&pp=15
 
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In my experience with dealerships in regards to the clunk is that they refuse to even acknowledge the existence of it.
 
Ryoga28 said:
In my experience with dealerships in regards to the clunk is that they refuse to even acknowledge the existence of it.

Well if the car is under warranty and you say, "those bushings are damaged, I want them replaced under warranty" then they have no choice. Besides the dealers love doing warranty work... they get paid handsomely for it.. you think dealers make money selling cars??? Ha NOT
 
Always had a problem with Great Neck Mazda and Wantagh Mazda. They would take the car out for a short drive and then report nothing is wrong at all. At least now, I don't have to worry about the clunk anymore (dave's klunk fix)
 
Well from what it seems like the dealership repair is just temporary and it just happens all over again.
 
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