how to get rid of boost cut

[AutoXRacer]

Yes, i recall you speaking of the full throttle flash. Thank you for the clarification about the fuel / boost cut. So do you consider the flow increase, creating a little more boost to be the problem. or maybe more of a combo of signals referenced by The sneaky Mazda ecu Thanks hope this is not a terrible question.

Talking with CP-E and monitoring my sensors and logs, I believe its my boost profile. My boost is not following the "stock" boost curve, so the ECU is triggering the safety. Of course, everyones results will be different. I have no restrictions in my intake and exhaust flow paths...none what so ever. The throttle plate was my only restriction left. So when I was able to open that to 100%, the flow...therefore, boost curve is much flatter and no longer matches the ECU's preprogrammed curve. I'm basically holding higher boost in the upper RPM band.

But my issue is the same as all the other guys that have increased their boost with MBC or whatever and triggered boost cut...I just did it with stock boost and an unrestrictive flow path.

I hope that helps and I didn't go off on a tangent... (lol2)

 

[ericrapp]

You have answered me very well. Tangent be damned. And NA is best, still has the rev to redline issues.What are you going to do sir allmotor. Sounds like fuel or a spark problem. What is the least expensive but safe fix for him. Has anyone with the modded pump played with bigger injectors? What size are the stock ones.

 

[nig3]

AP is the only thing that completely eliminated my boost cut and stutter problems. That pretty much proves that needing a bigger CDFP was a hoax LOL. its all about proper tuning.

 

[vapteka]

Talking with CP-E and monitoring my sensors and logs, I believe its my boost profile. My boost is not following the "stock" boost curve, so the ECU is triggering the safety. Of course, everyones results will be different. I have no restrictions in my intake and exhaust flow paths...none what so ever. The throttle plate was my only restriction left. So when I was able to open that to 100%, the flow...therefore, boost curve is much flatter and no longer matches the ECU's preprogrammed curve. I'm basically holding higher boost in the upper RPM band.

But my issue is the same as all the other guys that have increased their boost with MBC or whatever and triggered boost cut...I just did it with stock boost and an unrestrictive flow path.

I hope that helps and I didn't go off on a tangent... (lol2)

Hi! I am from Russia. And I need help with turboxs fuel cut defender. Somebody said that this mod is killing my engine. Could you explain me how its works and isnt it bad? I just have Apexi AVCR, TurboXS turboback and cobb sri... but a fuel cut is killing me. may be atp boost cut killer is more good? Sorry for my english. Thanks...
P.S. my english is to bad for understanding all your post here (silly) please try to explaine me more simply. Thanks

 

[lestat13]

AP is the only thing that completely eliminated my boost cut and stutter problems. That pretty much proves that needing a bigger CDFP was a hoax LOL. its all about proper tuning.

well now I guess I gotta hurry up and get that ap. what other mods do you have?

 

[AutoXRacer]

Hi! I am from Russia. And I need help with turboxs fuel cut defender. Somebody said that this mod is killing my engine. Could you explain me how its works and isnt it bad? I just have Apexi AVCR, TurboXS turboback and cobb sri... but a fuel cut is killing me. may be atp boost cut killer is more good? Sorry for my english. Thanks...
P.S. my english is to bad for understanding all your post here (silly) please try to explaine me more simply. Thanks

The TurboXS Fuel Cut Defender...or any MAP clamp for that matter, is for boost cut problems. The causes for fuel cut is different from boost cut.

If you are having fuel cut, then you need a new fuel pump. An easy way to verify is by looking at your air/fuel ratios and your fuel pressure. If you are experiencing fuel pressure drops and/or lean conditions, that is your problem.

This car has a weak fuel system...specifically the cam driven fuel pump.

I hope this helps!!

 

[speedalot]

i have boost cut and feul cut im pretty sure. first the boost cut kicks in at like 5k rpm then the fuel cut kicks in at 6 6.5k rpm. will the cobb AP help get rid of it? and also, if i do get the cobb AP which map would i use with the mods i have done (in my sig) ive read through all of them and they all say that you have to have a catalytic converter.. i dont have any. i just dont want to spend 700 and have it not help my problem.

 

[vapteka]

The TurboXS Fuel Cut Defender...or any MAP clamp for that matter, is for boost cut problems. The causes for fuel cut is different from boost cut.

If you are having fuel cut, then you need a new fuel pump. An easy way to verify is by looking at your air/fuel ratios and your fuel pressure. If you are experiencing fuel pressure drops and/or lean conditions, that is your problem.

This car has a weak fuel system...specifically the cam driven fuel pump.

I hope this helps!!

O.K. Thanks/ i have a boost cut, not fuel cut. its mean i need turboxs fuel cut defender (2thumbs)

 

[acidbug]

i have boost cut and feul cut im pretty sure. first the boost cut kicks in at like 5k rpm then the fuel cut kicks in at 6 6.5k rpm. will the cobb AP help get rid of it? and also, if i do get the cobb AP which map would i use with the mods i have done (in my sig) ive read through all of them and they all say that you have to have a catalytic converter.. i dont have any. i just dont want to spend 700 and have it not help my problem.

Your issue sounds like boost cut.

Usually people with fuel cut issues have it down low..like 3k rpm b/c the cam driven fuel pump lacks pressure down low. It shines up top flowing enough to support your mods.

I think the cobb ap may help but your mods don't match their maps...so u will have problems unless you get it tuned.

I think your best bet is a map clamp if you want to run high boost.
CPE would prob be a better solution as it has built in map clamp and boost control.

-C

 

[lewisb01]

All this stuff is starting to confuse the hell out of me. Here is a list of things I want to do to my car.

CAI
CP-E downpipe w/cat
CS CBE
PG manifold
RPMC turbo inlet pipe
forge bpv
Poly MM
and TMIC maybe FMIC not sure yet

So i've bought some of this stuff and i'm wondering if I get all this stuff am I going to hav all kinds of boost cut and fuel cut? Is there a cut off point on the upgrades where I wont have to worry about this stuff?

 

[acidbug]

All this stuff is starting to confuse the hell out of me. Here is a list of things I want to do to my car.

CAI
CP-E downpipe w/cat
CS CBE
PG manifold
RPMC turbo inlet pipe
forge bpv
Poly MM
and TMIC maybe FMIC not sure yet

So i've bought some of this stuff and i'm wondering if I get all this stuff am I going to hav all kinds of boost cut and fuel cut? Is there a cut off point on the upgrades where I wont have to worry about this stuff?

Based on the mods you listed..you will need EMS (engine management system). I suggest going w/ CPE as cobb will prob not work with the setup above.

Once you open up the intake and exhaust you will boost cut like crazy.

 

[lewisb01]

Is this what your talking about? http://www.cp-e.com/2047.html?open=0 if so maybe i'm getting over my head $700 for something I have no idea how to work seems a little steep

Ken from PG mentioned I might just need a boost cut killer or map clamp. BUt I'm looking for more opinions.

What mods can I do to my car and not have to start getting into all this techy s***. I'm guessing CAI, turbo inlet, CBE w/ a test pipe and the FMIC and leave out the PG manifold and the DP?

Based on the mods you listed..you will need EMS (engine management system). I suggest going w/ CPE as cobb will prob not work with the setup above.

Once you open up the intake and exhaust you will boost cut like crazy.

 

[lestat13]

I've got catless dp and mp and intake, and im only getting boost cut over 100mph. Just waiting to put some money in the bank, get some things done at home, then install a mechanical boost gauge and a map clamp. problem solved for now. as for FMIC, I've have heard people say their psi readings drop a bit, or with cobb and cp-e, readings are supposed to be the same as with the factory tmic.

 

[acidbug]

Is this what your talking about? http://www.cp-e.com/2047.html?open=0 if so maybe i'm getting over my head $700 for something I have no idea how to work seems a little steep

Ken from PG mentioned I might just need a boost cut killer or map clamp. BUt I'm looking for more opinions.

What mods can I do to my car and not have to start getting into all this techy s***. I'm guessing CAI, turbo inlet, CBE w/ a test pipe and the FMIC and leave out the PG manifold and the DP?

I suggest getting the following mods:
CAI/SRI
Upgraded BOV
Test Pipe + cat back exhaust
ETS TMIC/FMIC
Boost around 18 psi

Also, get a map clamp and an upgraded fuel pump and you are set.

That should net you close to the 300whp mark without much issues regarding reliability and severe boost cut.

That should keep a smile on your face for a while and still able to boost without severe fuel cut.

-C

 

[acidbug]

I've got catless dp and mp and intake, and im only getting boost cut over 100mph. Just waiting to put some money in the bank, get some things done at home, then install a mechanical boost gauge and a map clamp. problem solved for now. as for FMIC, I've have heard people say their psi readings drop a bit, or with cobb and cp-e, readings are supposed to be the same as with the factory tmic.

mp?

I would suggest you get a gauge on your ride as the next mod...

Chances are with you catless dp..intake...you are spiking above 18-19psi in 4 & 5th gear.

FMIC=Lag when switching from TMIC setup.

But the bonus is that you can run more boost safely and not have to stress out the turbo due to all the restrictions from OEM TMIC.

I remember reading that oem TMIC has pressure drop of 3 psi. Versus cobb/cpe/ets tmic more like 1psi.

 

[lestat13]

I have a dashhawk right now, but need to get a real boost gauge on there before I get a map clamp. Yeah, I am spiking as high as 21psi......

I have heard on the boards that people are seeing no pressure drop at least with the cobb fmic. So are you saying that because the factory tmic has about 3psi pressure drop you will see more boost with an upgraded fmic? what if someone just upgraded to a new tmic?

 

[acidbug]

I have a dashhawk right now, but need to get a real boost gauge on there before I get a map clamp. Yeah, I am spiking as high as 21psi......

I have heard on the boards that people are seeing no pressure drop at least with the cobb fmic. So are you saying that because the factory tmic has about 3psi pressure drop you will see more boost with an upgraded fmic? what if someone just upgraded to a new tmic?

Basically your ecu has limits preset into each gear for boost. Assuming you are not messing with any kind of boost controller. An upgraded fmic/tmic will not give you higher boost levels. You will see the same boost levels as ecu controls boost.

So in stock form..the turbo is pushing around 17-18psi to give you around 15-16psi at the manifold. This is due to that pressure drop (~3psi) from OEM TMIC.

When you add an upgraded IC...you should see the same 15-16psi at manifold..but turbo is now only pushing around 16-17psi due to drop in restriction from OEM TMIC.

So effectively you are saving your turbo..and getting cooler air into the intake manifold...this also provides you with a margin of safety.

hope this helps.

-c

 

[lestat13]

oh, for some reason I had it off. I was thinking pressure everywhere, not turbo compared to manifold. that makes me want to upgrade now!! I told myself I'm done for now and gonna wait for spring to come back around. I haven't owned this thing a year yet and I've put a bunch of money into it. I want to go fmic and ap in the spring. Hopefully I can stop there. Because of some roads on my way to work and crime in the area I am resisting a drop and wheels, but we'll see.

 

[lewisb01]

I suggest getting the following mods:
CAI/SRI
Upgraded BOV
Test Pipe + cat back exhaust
ETS TMIC/FMIC
Boost around 18 psi

Also, get a map clamp and an upgraded fuel pump and you are set.

That should net you close to the 300whp mark without much issues regarding reliability and severe boost cut.

That should keep a smile on your face for a while and still able to boost without severe fuel cut.

-C

I was thinking about going with all those other mods I mentioned earlier. But i'm going to hold off for awhile on the manifold and DP.
The list you mentioned sounds like the one I was going to start really thinking about.
upgraded fuel bump I knew would be a must what do you suggest?
Also will a turbo inlet pipe be okay to add to that list?

 

[acidbug]

I was thinking about going with all those other mods I mentioned earlier. But i'm going to hold off for awhile on the manifold and DP.
The list you mentioned sounds like the one I was going to start really thinking about.
upgraded fuel bump I knew would be a must what do you suggest?
Also will a turbo inlet pipe be okay to add to that list?

For cdfp I would suggest you go mrlilguy. I heard nothing but good reviews.

Turbo inlet pipe should be ok depending on which sir/cai you go.

I suggest getting one w/ air straightener such as cobb/cpe/new aem.

Otherwise this may throw off your maf and cause problems.

-C