How to fix ALL SPUTTER ISSUES!!!

knowledge007,
would you happen to have a SRI using a Specter(I think that's what it's called- the after market universal) air sensor piece? Mine did the same thing at idle. It sounded like it was missing pretty badly. It pulled like a ***** ape in 2-3-4 with that SRI, but it sputtered BADLY at idle.
 
No I have a CP-E CAI.

Ok so I followed the pipe all the way to the turbo. Tried to the move the clamp and it won't budge. Even if I wanted to tighten it how the **** would I get down there. Anyway, I don't think I should have a problem with that clamp loose as remember guys I had my turbo replaced. But then again, you can never be to sure...
 
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the boost cut on this car IS 100% triggered by MAP voltage. every single place that tunes and mods them has said so. until myelf and driver311 used the MAP clamps, the most common product was the ATP boost cut defender. it bleeds out boost to give lower voltage to the ecu. in the end it is the same result. i agree the car needs more fuel.

i dont know what your results are but it doesnt make sense. there is in fact boost cut that is triggered by the map sensor. the standback, xede, and even cobb have seen it. what my car does NOW when it cuts is in fact the fuel system running dry. but before the clamp, if i held 18+psi for anything more than a brief spike i would cut. i turned the voltage to below 4V and that all stopped. i had no cuts at all at 19psi for about 2 weeks when the temp dropped. the cold air causes the car to run out of fuel, and...yes cut.

"Boost cut" and "fuel cut" are the same thing and they are not triggered by any one thing.
*Colder temps cause the cut. Clamping the MAF IAT to a certain voltage reduces fuel cut. I set my clamp so that my MAF IAT was 82 deg and don't have fuel cut until it's in the low 20s outside.

*Lowering the MAP voltage reduces instance of the cut. Example: your map clamps and lowering the standback "Boost Clip PSI" aka map clamp from 13 (default) to 10.

*Lowering the MAF voltage reduces the cut. I had added fuel in my MAF voltage/rpm map and was getting cut. Zeroing the MAF voltage/rpm map reduced the cut.

There are three different examples of when fuel/boost cut occurs. I have been monitoring injPW, fuel pressure, and afr and non of them indicate a lean situation. I have yet to identify THE reason for the cut and more I investigate the more I feel like this is a result of a programming error in the ecu code.
 
Wow this thread turned into a huge moulton of s*** quick. Stop with the mud slinging already! Why is it so damn hard for us to work together as a team?
 
what i want to know is, if in fact this is a lack of fuel issue as we all speculatre.... how the hell does Jason make that kind of power on a stock fuel system, and all us MS3's have issues around the 300whp mark ?

I think the MS3 and MS6 have completely DIFFERENT parameters and tuning. I dont know why or how this is possible, but the two breeds act completely different. The MS6 is a heavier car, but people are making higher hp with them without the same issues MS3 guys are having. (screwy)

Direct Injection, something new for all of us to figure out, learn, concur and master.
 
No I have a CP-E CAI.

Ok so I followed the pipe all the way to the turbo. Tried to the move the clamp and it won't budge. Even if I wanted to tighten it how the **** would I get down there. Anyway, I don't think I should have a problem with that clamp loose as remember guys I had my turbo replaced. But then again, you can never be to sure...

You take your TMIC off and reach down with a Socket Wrench. I used a 1/8 inch wrench with an extender and I think an 8mm socket (same one you use to take off the plastic cover of the TMIC).

Its actually easy to do. Just because you can't move the pipe it does not mean its not lose.
 
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I bite my lip every time I hear about the fastest speed6 out there
a speed 6 with xede and a GT turbo running just a **** hair under a flat 13 second time slip is nothing to brag about
I bite my lip everytime some hater who has done nothing with there ET or Mph opens there mouth. When you can run a 12.8-12.9 consistenly on a 1.8 60ft then you should open your mouth. But when your still running n the high 13's when people are running mid 13s completely stock you have nothing to brag about. (yupnope)
 
I bite my lip everytime some hater who has done nothing with there ET or Mph opens there mouth. When you can run a 12.8-12.9 consistenly on a 1.8 60ft then you should open your mouth. But when your still running n the high 13's when people are running mid 13s completely stock you have nothing to brag about. (yupnope)

well now that I have your and Ken's attention, fun times ahead(cabpatch)
 
i was already going to do the coil spring mod but i could use some new spark plugs on the ms3 as well and the other mods as well
 
Will the one step colder plugs help a stock boost level speed3? Wondering if its worth it just to buy the one step colder plugs...
 
i dont think it would do anything for you. it sure wouldnt hurt, but it would not be $$$ well spent on a stock boost car IMO.
 
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