How to fix ALL SPUTTER ISSUES!!!

Hey all i just installed my corksport downpipe last night and didnt get to finish putting on the rest of the exhaust back on. So i am running open downpipe for now. I can Def can tell the the gains in the butt dyno but at the higher rpms it sputters bad in gears 2nd and up. My question is when i put the rest of the exhaust on will i get the sputter still? I dont have full tbe just the race pipe and and now the corksport dp. My other mods cp-e cai and a greddy bov, stock boost also. Anyone with similar setup having any issues?
 
you did the plugs before the pump right ? i wonder if the cdfp by itself could have been the key ingedient for fixing all your problems. obviosly the map clamp needs to be there, but i'm not sure about the plugs. not saying they will hurt in anyway, just wondering if they were needed. i may try just the cdfp first. if i still get hesitation then i know to try the plugs. i am sticking with 3.9V on my clamp too. my cut only happens at or above 5k. if the voltage needed to be lower i would cut long before that. i can hold 19psi from 2500-5k with no problems. that tells me it is lack of fuel, not a map voltage cut.
congrats on the fix driver. i know i am thankfull for the info, as are many others.
 
If you guys are interested in getting higher output alternators I could set you up with a friend of mine who offers high outputs in the same alternator case housing. He owns Iraggi alternators and runs this ebay store.

http://stores.ebay.com/Iraggi-Alternator-and-Electronics


He could probably do some rewired oems that will offer better voltages.

That's funny, they're the one who made the one that was available on the rpm store's website. Could you see if he can pull those designs back off the shelf? I don't remember what the cost was, but if it's not too bad, I'll deffinately get one. I'm adding a voltage regulator and ground wire kit as soon as they get here, but I've got a pretty demanding sound system and the capacitor doesn't seem to eliminate the dimming lights. I'll test mule it and give a review if he'll give me a good price.
 
you did the plugs before the pump right ? i wonder if the cdfp by itself could have been the key ingedient for fixing all your problems. obviosly the map clamp needs to be there, but i'm not sure about the plugs. not saying they will hurt in anyway, just wondering if they were needed. i may try just the cdfp first. if i still get hesitation then i know to try the plugs. i am sticking with 3.9V on my clamp too. my cut only happens at or above 5k. if the voltage needed to be lower i would cut long before that. i can hold 19psi from 2500-5k with no problems. that tells me it is lack of fuel, not a map voltage cut.
congrats on the fix driver. i know i am thankfull for the info, as are many others.

Not necessarily on the map clamp. I'm having no cut at all w/o any clamping.
 
New to this s***. Please describe in more detail. If you would be so kind. Where exactly am I tugging on the coil? Boot?

When you take off the Coil you pull the Head (Plastic Part) from where it goes into the rubber boot (You will know what I'm talking about when you see it). Inside there is a long spring. Just grab it in the middle (thicker part) and stretch out the spring. Put it back together and do the same to the rest and you're done.
 
then you must not be holding 18psi or higher. the car will cut every single time at 18+psi if you dont hide it from the MAP sensor in some way.

19psi all day long on my e-01. I've tested it at 20psi as well. The "boost" cut you guys keep refering to is a FUEL cut resulting from the fuel system not being able to keep up with the desired load. As long as the fuel system can keep up, a high map reading doesn't really matter. That's when the voltage seems to me to be becoming a factor. My itfp draws about half the current as the stocker while delivering a good amount more fuel. If you guys with the upgraded cdfp are still getting fuel cut with no map clamp, then that is only more evidence pointing to the electrical system. Map clamp = less voltage requirement.
 
i dont know what your results are but it doesnt make sense. there is in fact boost cut that is triggered by the map sensor. the standback, xede, and even cobb have seen it. what my car does NOW when it cuts is in fact the fuel system running dry. but before the clamp, if i held 18+psi for anything more than a brief spike i would cut. i turned the voltage to below 4V and that all stopped. i had no cuts at all at 19psi for about 2 weeks when the temp dropped. the cold air causes the car to run out of fuel, and...yes cut. the only thing i can think of is you must not really be @ 19psi. many tuning systems out there modify the map voltage to stop the cut, and it works. i dont think an ITFP fixed anything for you. if the CDFP is still stock you are not getting any more fuel than you were before. the CDFP is maxxed out before the ITFP. so getting more fuel out of the tank and to the CDFP is worthless, because it cant do anymore than it already is.
 
My gauge and e-01 both give the same readings. In fact the gauge I have recalibrates itself at every start up, so there is no indiscretion there. You are wrong about the cdfp's output not being effected by the supply. I co-design electrical, hvac, mechanical, and plumbing systems all day long and I work with about a dozen and a half engineers, and they have all confirmed with me that a high pressure pump's output will be exponentially perportional to the low pressure pump supplying it. Of coarse that is industrial applications, but the laws of fluid dynamics weren't over-ridden by mazda. The rail pressure regulator keeps the pressure/volume in check 99.9% of the time, but at wot when the motor needs all it can get, the rail pressure regulator is closed (or at least damn near closed). That's when the Walbro is showing it's benefit for me. Really, I have similar results as the cdfp guys, except I'm drawing far less current from my electrical system. That's why I'm making these points. If it is in fact an electrical issue, then yes, a clamp will free up some voltage, yes, stretching out the springs in the coils will allow a better contact, but little fixes like that are not going to be an end all solution for major modders.
 
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I don't buy it, and I'll tell you why:

I installed a pretty power-hungry tube-preamp set of amplifiers in my car pretty much from week one of ownership. While I don't believe in "max watt" ratings or any crazy power figures from my audio gear, I can tell you that I know I can draw about 1100W RMS at any time, and ZERO headlight dimming will result. At any speed, including idle. Now, I was careful to place my grounds at the lowest point of resistance that I could find, and i upgraded the ground to my battery, but other then that I can find no substantial drop in voltage occuring on this car.

Also, powering up my system to its capacity while simultaneously hauling ass on a highway is pretty common for me, and I can say I've never felt the sensation of losing electrical power. I think the primary sputter issues is related to what Driver311 found, although my car remains stock (except for a cut airbox) and will have to remain that way for quite some time due to zero funds.

Now, what I can't prove is how this car will behave with a large audio electrical draw combined with aftermarket performance parts (forcing higher horsepower numbers), since I am nearly stock. But, I can't imagine it turning out differently then it has so far.

You know if you want to test your theory, just install a high quality battery (like an Optima) and retest, or maybe install a large capacitor (1 Farad min.) to handle transient voltage drops. I'm fairly confident that the charging and battery system is adequate for the car though.

A pretty substantial voltage drop has been logged by a few members of the other forum. Not only at wot, but also in that 2500-2800rpm range right where the lean spot seems to happen. I believe the low spot is happening because the open loop and closed loop programs overlap for a slight moment, but there's not really a way to test that or fix that currently. For the top end though it is a common problem for "high" end cars that were designed with cost-effective engineering in mind. So many things are drawing alot of current and the system just maxes out. Once the system is maxed out, and the injectors, spark plugs, spill valve, ect... keep demanding more power, other things will be drawn short. One reason I think this could be the case is the temp. factor. The temp. sensors pass higher voltage to the ecu as the temps. go down. This would in turn cause a voltage drop (if this is the case) to occur sooner and more frequently than it would with warmer temps. Another thing that points in that direction is the whole tuning with an upgraded cdfp thing. With no active tune, the standback doesn't draw alot of current. However, once you start adjusting things, it will need more juice to do the things you want it to do. Thus, when you have the fuel physically capable of being there, the ecu keeps raising the amount of power being sent to the injectors, spark plugs, spill valve, ect... and then the standback is telling it to do this, that, and the other, you'll deffinately be demanding alot more from the system than it was originally designed to do. That would explain Dadasracecar's bad results and laloosh having to zero out his tune. This could be the root cause of the studdering issue, and the fuel cut, and the boost cut (whatever you mean by that). If our electrical system is actually sitting on the edge, then these "slight" things would cause such problems. Not 100% possitive, but it's worth looking into.
 
Clamping the map sensor is kinda gangster if you ask me, why would you not want your ecu to know what boost your running, doesnt the ecu use the map sensor to calibrate the fuel maps? or is it only there to sense overboost and make the car fuel cut?? My past experience with FCD's or map clamps is only used as a bandaid , when the real problem is tuning. Does anyone know if the ecu uses the map sensor to calibrate fuel on the ms3 or strictly the mafs???
 
I don't buy it, and I'll tell you why:

I installed a pretty power-hungry tube-preamp set of amplifiers in my car pretty much from week one of ownership. While I don't believe in "max watt" ratings or any crazy power figures from my audio gear, I can tell you that I know I can draw about 1100W RMS at any time, and ZERO headlight dimming will result. At any speed, including idle. Now, I was careful to place my grounds at the lowest point of resistance that I could find, and i upgraded the ground to my battery, but other then that I can find no substantial drop in voltage occuring on this car.

Also, powering up my system to its capacity while simultaneously hauling ass on a highway is pretty common for me, and I can say I've never felt the sensation of losing electrical power. I think the primary sputter issues is related to what Driver311 found, although my car remains stock (except for a cut airbox) and will have to remain that way for quite some time due to zero funds.

Now, what I can't prove is how this car will behave with a large audio electrical draw combined with aftermarket performance parts (forcing higher horsepower numbers), since I am nearly stock. But, I can't imagine it turning out differently then it has so far.

You know if you want to test your theory, just install a high quality battery (like an Optima) and retest, or maybe install a large capacitor (1 Farad min.) to handle transient voltage drops. I'm fairly confident that the charging and battery system is adequate for the car though.

I also have a high end stereo system as well (~1800w rms when I'm really blasting it), with a 1 farad capacitor to go with some go-fast mods. When the car is idling or not running, I do see my headlights dimming with the system hitting, but never when I'm driving. I know I need a bigger capacitor for the system, but either way, I usually turn my radio off for a good hard blast (old habbit from my mr2 days). I just read on the other forum that some cars (including alot of fords) will actually shut off the alternator at high engine load. This could be the case with these cars. I'm not even sure wth we could do about that if that's causing problems.
 
Clamping the map sensor is kinda gangster if you ask me, why would you not want your ecu to know what boost your running, doesnt the ecu use the map sensor to calibrate the fuel maps? or is it only there to sense overboost and make the car fuel cut?? My past experience with FCD's or map clamps is only used as a bandaid , when the real problem is tuning. Does anyone know if the ecu uses the map sensor to calibrate fuel on the ms3 or strictly the mafs???

In open loop, the ecu uses speed-density calculations. It looks at the amount of air coming in, the temperature that air is, the pressure that air is in the manifold, and the temperature the pressurized air is before entering the cylinder. It uses ALL of these values to calculate how much fuel to throw in there and at what pressure to make the fuel enter. In open loop, it completely ignores the o2 sensors. It doesn't "hunt" for any specific afr in open loop. Closed loop however is dictated primarily by the o2 sensors and it uses the rest of the sensors to make sure things are running smoothly, and to decide what needs to be adjusted to get the afr it's looking for.
 
Dude I have two amps in my car and a capacitor and never have I had an issue. my car has none of the signs you are describing. I have cold temps and Im pushing more boost than anyone on here. The theory is just a theory. I dont know what else to tell ya. Ive logged my voltage and its good.
 

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