How To: 2.0 Header Installation
- Thread starter Captain KRM P5
- Start date
Well, I installed my OBX headers today, and here's some details and suggestions:
- I wrapped them with DEI 1" exhaust wrap. Clamped down the wrap with regular stainless steel hose clamps. I then put multiple coats of black DEI HT silicone coating. The coating makes the DEI wrap look a lot nicer and seals the wrap nicely. I'll post pics tomorrow.
- I bought a donut gasket, and spring bolts in advance. Good idea to do this. Unfortunately the NAPA donut gasket didn't end up fitting, but luckily my old donut came off easily from my front pipe with a flat-head screwdriver so I re-used that.
- My spring bolts were a huge b**** to remove! Good thing I bought a propane flame tank in advance (best $10 I ever spent!). I had to use that to really heat the bolts until they were amber. I also sprayed a ton of PB Blaster Penetrating Catalyst: http://www.jeepfan.com/reviews/pbblaster.htm I really like this stuff, and I sprayed it on all the rusty bolts I had to remove. The mid-pipe spring bolts were by far the hardest and longest part of this install. Took me 2+ hours to get those 2 bastards off! 4 Northeastern Canadian winters really corroded the s*** out of those things.
- My 2nd O2 sensor (under the car) was hard to remove from underneath the car, so I would suggest removing the stock mani and taking off that O2 sensor once the whole mani/pre-cat/front pipe is out of the car.
- I had an extra bracket that connected my pre-cat to my engine block which wasn't mentioned in this install guide. That was a tad difficult to get to.
- The O2 sensor wire connectors are also a little painful to get off, but be patient and remove the clips that hold them down as this makes it easier to disconnect.
- The EGR valve goes back on the OBX quite easily if you remove the bolt for the clamp that holds the pipe down. However, after connecting it to the OBX, I was unable to get that bolt back on for the clamp, as the pipe had been displaced.
- I didn't have a 1/2" drill bit for the non-fouler, so I ended up ruining a non-fouler with a smaller drill bit. I have to re-do that part of the install when it stops raining here, but my car hasn't thrown a CEL yet.
QUESTION: I used some Canadian Tire spring bolts to connect the header to the mid-pipe. I also used the gasket that came with the OBX and my original donut gasket. Is this the right order cuz it sounds like I have a leak: OBX header -> gasket that came with header -> donut gasket -> mid-pipe, secured with the spring bolts? How tight do those spring bolts have to be? I have to get under the car and check for a leak because it definitely sounds like there is one.
Overall, it sounds different and the DEI wrap+coating was emitting a ton of smoke so it also smelled different. The coating has cured after 50km, so the smoke and smell is gone. The sound is hard to describe, kinda throaty, but I'm sure I have a leak so mine doesn't sound very good.
Performance: (mated with a K&N CAI) Some low-end torque is gone, but she pulls faster to redline. At first, there's no huge immediately noticeable difference. Driving her around a bit more, I realized she pulls quicker in 1st and 2nd, and a bit quicker in 3rd. Slightly improved at higher speeds in 4th and 5th. My brother also took her for a test drive and said he noticed she gets to redline faster. But I have to fix the leak...
Right after installing it (and doing an oil change), I took her around the block for a test drive. A Cobalt SS pulls up and wants to race. We go, and we're neck-and-neck in 1st, I shift quicker to 2nd thanks to TWM and gain on him, same in 3rd but he starts gaining on me in 3rd at higher speeds. Eventually we had to stop and I was still in the lead, but had we kept going, he would've taken me. All this to say, the OBX header proved itself on the first test drive (only in the first 3 gears though)
- I wrapped them with DEI 1" exhaust wrap. Clamped down the wrap with regular stainless steel hose clamps. I then put multiple coats of black DEI HT silicone coating. The coating makes the DEI wrap look a lot nicer and seals the wrap nicely. I'll post pics tomorrow.
- I bought a donut gasket, and spring bolts in advance. Good idea to do this. Unfortunately the NAPA donut gasket didn't end up fitting, but luckily my old donut came off easily from my front pipe with a flat-head screwdriver so I re-used that.
- My spring bolts were a huge b**** to remove! Good thing I bought a propane flame tank in advance (best $10 I ever spent!). I had to use that to really heat the bolts until they were amber. I also sprayed a ton of PB Blaster Penetrating Catalyst: http://www.jeepfan.com/reviews/pbblaster.htm I really like this stuff, and I sprayed it on all the rusty bolts I had to remove. The mid-pipe spring bolts were by far the hardest and longest part of this install. Took me 2+ hours to get those 2 bastards off! 4 Northeastern Canadian winters really corroded the s*** out of those things.
- My 2nd O2 sensor (under the car) was hard to remove from underneath the car, so I would suggest removing the stock mani and taking off that O2 sensor once the whole mani/pre-cat/front pipe is out of the car.
- I had an extra bracket that connected my pre-cat to my engine block which wasn't mentioned in this install guide. That was a tad difficult to get to.
- The O2 sensor wire connectors are also a little painful to get off, but be patient and remove the clips that hold them down as this makes it easier to disconnect.
- The EGR valve goes back on the OBX quite easily if you remove the bolt for the clamp that holds the pipe down. However, after connecting it to the OBX, I was unable to get that bolt back on for the clamp, as the pipe had been displaced.
- I didn't have a 1/2" drill bit for the non-fouler, so I ended up ruining a non-fouler with a smaller drill bit. I have to re-do that part of the install when it stops raining here, but my car hasn't thrown a CEL yet.
QUESTION: I used some Canadian Tire spring bolts to connect the header to the mid-pipe. I also used the gasket that came with the OBX and my original donut gasket. Is this the right order cuz it sounds like I have a leak: OBX header -> gasket that came with header -> donut gasket -> mid-pipe, secured with the spring bolts? How tight do those spring bolts have to be? I have to get under the car and check for a leak because it definitely sounds like there is one.
Overall, it sounds different and the DEI wrap+coating was emitting a ton of smoke so it also smelled different. The coating has cured after 50km, so the smoke and smell is gone. The sound is hard to describe, kinda throaty, but I'm sure I have a leak so mine doesn't sound very good.
Performance: (mated with a K&N CAI) Some low-end torque is gone, but she pulls faster to redline. At first, there's no huge immediately noticeable difference. Driving her around a bit more, I realized she pulls quicker in 1st and 2nd, and a bit quicker in 3rd. Slightly improved at higher speeds in 4th and 5th. My brother also took her for a test drive and said he noticed she gets to redline faster. But I have to fix the leak...
Right after installing it (and doing an oil change), I took her around the block for a test drive. A Cobalt SS pulls up and wants to race. We go, and we're neck-and-neck in 1st, I shift quicker to 2nd thanks to TWM and gain on him, same in 3rd but he starts gaining on me in 3rd at higher speeds. Eventually we had to stop and I was still in the lead, but had we kept going, he would've taken me. All this to say, the OBX header proved itself on the first test drive (only in the first 3 gears though)
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GMalatrasi
Member
- :
- 2003 Mazda Proteg5, soon to be Turbo
Does anyone know what to torque the bolts to?(The ones that go to the head)
I cant find it anywhere.
I cant find it anywhere.
ghetto waggon
Member
- :
- 2003 Protege5, Yellow.
damaster said:Well, I installed my OBX headers today, and here's some details and suggestions:
- I wrapped them with DEI 1" exhaust wrap. Clamped down the wrap with regular stainless steel hose clamps. I then put multiple coats of black DEI HT silicone coating. The coating makes the DEI wrap look a lot nicer and seals the wrap nicely. I'll post pics tomorrow.
- I bought a donut gasket, and spring bolts in advance. Good idea to do this. Unfortunately the NAPA donut gasket didn't end up fitting, but luckily my old donut came off easily from my front pipe with a flat-head screwdriver so I re-used that.
- My spring bolts were a huge b**** to remove! Good thing I bought a propane flame tank in advance (best $10 I ever spent!). I had to use that to really heat the bolts until they were amber. I also sprayed a ton of PB Blaster Penetrating Catalyst: http://www.jeepfan.com/reviews/pbblaster.htm I really like this stuff, and I sprayed it on all the rusty bolts I had to remove. The mid-pipe spring bolts were by far the hardest and longest part of this install. Took me 2+ hours to get those 2 bastards off! 4 Northeastern Canadian winters really corroded the s*** out of those things.
- My 2nd O2 sensor (under the car) was hard to remove from underneath the car, so I would suggest removing the stock mani and taking off that O2 sensor once the whole mani/pre-cat/front pipe is out of the car.
- I had an extra bracket that connected my pre-cat to my engine block which wasn't mentioned in this install guide. That was a tad difficult to get to.
- The O2 sensor wire connectors are also a little painful to get off, but be patient and remove the clips that hold them down as this makes it easier to disconnect.
- The EGR valve goes back on the OBX quite easily if you remove the bolt for the clamp that holds the pipe down. However, after connecting it to the OBX, I was unable to get that bolt back on for the clamp, as the pipe had been displaced.
- I didn't have a 1/2" drill bit for the non-fouler, so I ended up ruining a non-fouler with a smaller drill bit. I have to re-do that part of the install when it stops raining here, but my car hasn't thrown a CEL yet.
QUESTION: I used some Canadian Tire spring bolts to connect the header to the mid-pipe. I also used the gasket that came with the OBX and my original donut gasket. Is this the right order cuz it sounds like I have a leak: OBX header -> gasket that came with header -> donut gasket -> mid-pipe, secured with the spring bolts? How tight do those spring bolts have to be? I have to get under the car and check for a leak because it definitely sounds like there is one.
Overall, it sounds different and the DEI wrap+coating was emitting a ton of smoke so it also smelled different. The coating has cured after 50km, so the smoke and smell is gone. The sound is hard to describe, kinda throaty, but I'm sure I have a leak so mine doesn't sound very good.
Performance: (mated with a K&N CAI) Some low-end torque is gone, but she pulls faster to redline. At first, there's no huge immediately noticeable difference. Driving her around a bit more, I realized she pulls quicker in 1st and 2nd, and a bit quicker in 3rd. Slightly improved at higher speeds in 4th and 5th. My brother also took her for a test drive and said he noticed she gets to redline faster. But I have to fix the leak...
Right after installing it (and doing an oil change), I took her around the block for a test drive. A Cobalt SS pulls up and wants to race. We go, and we're neck-and-neck in 1st, I shift quicker to 2nd thanks to TWM and gain on him, same in 3rd but he starts gaining on me in 3rd at higher speeds. Eventually we had to stop and I was still in the lead, but had we kept going, he would've taken me. All this to say, the OBX header proved itself on the first test drive (only in the first 3 gears though)
which clamps did you use?
did you go with 1 or 2" header wrap?
Did you buy the bolts from mazda?
GMalatrasi
Member
- :
- 2003 Mazda Proteg5, soon to be Turbo
Ok my OBX headers are finally on!
Took me, oh I dunno, about 6 hours... Although 3 of those were spent waiting for pizza and tools.
Everything came off pretty easily except the three bolts that hold the bend right after the cat.
Then I bolted the header on without a problem untill I got to the EGR fitting...
The angle was off a lil bit so I couldnt screw it in, so after trying for 20min to bend the EGR pipe into allignment, I had to take everything back off and screw in the EGR fitting before putting anything else on. Then I bolted the headers back on and presto.
Started the car and I could hear a leak and the idle was rough... I Instantly assumed it was the EGR fitting wasnt tight enough. So I made it as tight as I could and the idle was instantly better. Thought the hissing sound is still there under acceleration.
Oh yeah... The car is noticebly more responsive to the pedal... not to mention 30lbs lighter, man that cat was heavy.
Took me, oh I dunno, about 6 hours... Although 3 of those were spent waiting for pizza and tools.
Everything came off pretty easily except the three bolts that hold the bend right after the cat.
Then I bolted the header on without a problem untill I got to the EGR fitting...
The angle was off a lil bit so I couldnt screw it in, so after trying for 20min to bend the EGR pipe into allignment, I had to take everything back off and screw in the EGR fitting before putting anything else on. Then I bolted the headers back on and presto.
Started the car and I could hear a leak and the idle was rough... I Instantly assumed it was the EGR fitting wasnt tight enough. So I made it as tight as I could and the idle was instantly better. Thought the hissing sound is still there under acceleration.
Oh yeah... The car is noticebly more responsive to the pedal... not to mention 30lbs lighter, man that cat was heavy.
My leak got worse since I did the install on Saturday. Today it was to the point where it sounded like I had a hole in my header! I went out and bought Mazda part BP48-40-581A, a.k.a. the "donut" gasket. It was actually cheaper at Mazda than at Napa ($14.40 CDN).
Installed the new "donut" gasket today, re-used my old OEM studs, nuts and springs to connect the header to the mid-pipe, rather than use the crappy Canadian Tire ones that are too thick to even fit through the holes in the mid-pipe. I squeezed the two pipes together with a vise grip and tightened the old nuts until the springs were pretty much almost all the way compressed. However, when I released the vise grip, there was still a small gap.
I still hear a small leaking/farting sound, but it's much than before with the old corroded "donut" gasket and the Canadian tire bolts. I'm not sure if the leaking/farting sound is just the way the headers are supposed to sound or if there's really a leak. I now only hear the leaky sound under 3500 RPM, and it's gone at higher revs. Is this normal?
I'll try going under the car, vise-gripping the pipes together and ask someone to rev it to see if it's really a leak I'm hearing...
Installed the new "donut" gasket today, re-used my old OEM studs, nuts and springs to connect the header to the mid-pipe, rather than use the crappy Canadian Tire ones that are too thick to even fit through the holes in the mid-pipe. I squeezed the two pipes together with a vise grip and tightened the old nuts until the springs were pretty much almost all the way compressed. However, when I released the vise grip, there was still a small gap.
I still hear a small leaking/farting sound, but it's much than before with the old corroded "donut" gasket and the Canadian tire bolts. I'm not sure if the leaking/farting sound is just the way the headers are supposed to sound or if there's really a leak. I now only hear the leaky sound under 3500 RPM, and it's gone at higher revs. Is this normal?
I'll try going under the car, vise-gripping the pipes together and ask someone to rev it to see if it's really a leak I'm hearing...
Laser03pro
Member
- :
- 1995 Miata
Buy my thunder header in the 4sale section I had no leaks at all 
.
.GMalatrasi
Member
- :
- 2003 Mazda Proteg5, soon to be Turbo
I cant tell where the hissing sound is coming from cause it's only audible after 2k rpm and I havent had anyone with me to rev it while I listen outside of the car.
If you have a hissing/leaking sounds, then it's worth replacing your "donut" gasket with a new one. The dealership has them pretty cheap and it's better than most any you can buy from a parts store.
I still have a very, very minor leaking sound under 3k RPM and I'm almost certain this is due to my old, rusted studs and bolts that I re-used as I can't get them tight enough to completely seal the tiny gap between the header and the mid-pipe.
Like I said, I'm gonna try vise-gripping the two pipes together to completely close the seal and listen for the leaking sound. If it's still there with the vise-grips on, then it ain't coming from a leak and I'll assume it's a normal sound from the OBX header and learn to live with it.
I still have a very, very minor leaking sound under 3k RPM and I'm almost certain this is due to my old, rusted studs and bolts that I re-used as I can't get them tight enough to completely seal the tiny gap between the header and the mid-pipe.
Like I said, I'm gonna try vise-gripping the two pipes together to completely close the seal and listen for the leaking sound. If it's still there with the vise-grips on, then it ain't coming from a leak and I'll assume it's a normal sound from the OBX header and learn to live with it.
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They were in pretty bad shape but not completely un-usable. The studs are actually in great condition. It's just the bolts that are wrecked and stripped (while I was trying to get them off). The springs are only slightly rusted. Annual rust proofings help I guessKansei said:
