How much oil *really* does 2016 Skyactiv 2.5G engine take?

A half a quart of gasoline diluting the oil would be a serious problem. Even a few ounces would indicate a big problem. I have also checked my oil hot, like within a half hour of a drive and stone cold and there is zero difference in the level on the dipstick. Regarding fuel dilution, the oil level on my CX 5 has not moved any measurable amount up or down in the 2600 miles since the last change. And I make a lot of short trips, like 10 mile round trips into town which qualifies for severe service.
Change the oil every 5000 miles using good synthetic even though you may be tempted to go 7500 miles. And try to get the engine good and hot every couple of weeks if you make a lot of short trips like I do and you shouldn't experience any fuel dilution issues.
Thanks for verifying this. I did the same experiment on my CX-5 and found the same result. It doesn’t make too much difference when you check the oil level AT LEAST 5 minutes after engine shutting off, or the old fashioned way checking the oil level the first thing in the morning before the engine start. The good part for latter is you can see the oil mark on dipstick much easier without even a wipe to the dipstick.

The reason? More oil drained back to the oil pan over night to compensate a little smaller volume on colder oil.

My CX-5 doesn’t seem to have any oil dilution issue, and the engine does burn some oil between each oil change. So I want my oil level at Full mark after each oil change to have more safety margin.

Oil dilution issue by the gasoline on our 2.5L seems to be happening in colder environment based on a few complaints we have seen here. In Texas we shouldn’t see this problem too often. Many friends in Dallas area are having infamous Honda 1.5T‘s and none of them have suffered oil dilution issue.
 
When my car was brand new, I checked the oil level and it was at the full line. So when I change my oil I want it at the full line. If Mazda really wanted it full at the half way point, they would have put a line there and marked that as full. I think they just did not update the manual from when they had a smaller oil pan.
Agreed. None of the vehicles I have owned, even though some of them do state “approximate” fluid capacities on specs, is having such huge discrepancies on several fluids, engine oil, rear differential gear lubricant, etc. Actually ALL of them, including my first 1974 Chevrolet Impala, are right on the mark, the oil level will be at the Full mark of the dipstick if I drained the oil long enough and poured in the stated capacity with OEM oil filter. To me, I wouldn’t say it’s an approximate fluid capacity when the difference between real-life and specs is off by 67% on real differential, but the the front transfer case is exactly the same! I doubt it’s a manual update issue with bigger oil pan or rear differential casing as people had been discussing these discrepancies since very early days in this forum.

Interestingly when I got our special-ordered CX-5 freshly unloaded from truck at my Mazda dealership, I checked the oil level and it was at ⅔ between Add and Full marks. The engine coolant level was also about half an inch below the Full mark. I checked a couple of other brand new CX-5’s in the dealer’s lot and showroom, they’re all at the same levels like mine. I believe your dealer did a good job topping off those fluids during the new car check-up (at dealer’s cost BTW).
 
I plan on doing a Blackstone oil analysis when the car reaches 15,000 miles and will ask for them to also check for fuel dilution. That may be a while though as I have only put less than 8000 miles on the car since June of 2019. I would do it at 10K miles but the oil that is currently in the engine is 3 quarts of Redline and 2,5 quarts of Castrol Edge and I would rather check it with just one oil brand. I had the Redline leftover from my Nissan 370Z and wanted to use it up, My change at 10K miles will be with the new GF6 rated Mobil 1 EP oil which should be an outstanding performer.
 
Seriously? This means you use a lab-grade measuring cup to get such precision of 425cc? (y)
It is kind of a mystery why the Mazda published spec doesn't completely refill the oil.
They've been making these engines long enough to know and they are in a better position than anybody to know, down to the cc, the exact capacity of the sump.
 
I think you guys are getting way too hung up on having to be at the Max fill line. The same amount of oil doesn't drain out on every oil change. The normal operating range is between the Min and Max markers (it's 1 liter from Min to Max). If 5 quarts gets you to approx the middle of the operating range, that's perfect. It's no different than the tranmission fluid level: there's a Min and a Max line and you want to be in the middle
 
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I don't think you could ever have an oil dilution problem in a warm climate area because the engine reaches normal operating temperature very quickly and will evaporate any gasoline that makes it's way to the crankcase and burn it via the PCV system. In colder climates where it gets down to -20 Fahrenheit (-28 Celsius) and the vehicle travels relatively short distances, the engine may never reach normal operating temperature before the trip is completed or if it does it won't be for a sufficient lenght of time to vaporize all the crankcase fuel and burn it. In cold climates, by design, cold weather starts requires the engine run with a richer fuel mixture and fast idle for a longer period of time so it can reach normal operating temperature as soon as possible and make the vehicle driveable as compared to a warm weather start and run where fast idle on start up is unheard of.
 
I think you guys are getting way too hung up on having to be at the Max fill line. The same amount of oil doesn't drain out on every oil change. The normal operating range is between the Min and Max markers (it's 1 liter from Min to Max). If 5 quarts gets you to approx the middle of the operating range, that's perfect. It's no different than the tranmission fluid level: there's a Min and a Max line and you want to be in the middle
I agree. I put a 5qt jug in once and it was just barely over the full mark mark, so now I reserve a pint in a rubbing alcohol bottle. The remaining 4.5qts,which is what they recommend (2.0 engine), takes it to just over half way. Which is fine for me.

I wonder if the windshield washer fluid reservoir was just half full when I took delivery? I forgot to check it. Everything's been working ok and it's almost four years old.
 
2.5T. Dump 5 qt jug in crankcase and pre fill oil filter from spare qt. Puts it at top line and good to go. Did this on 3.7 as well when I had it.

Get about 3 changes from the spare qt.
 
I think you guys are getting way too hung up on having to be at the Max fill line.
Historically the oil capacity listed on every manufacture’s spec is based on the oil level to the Full / Maximum mark of the dipstick. Mazda did an unconventional way stated a capacity which is actually closer to the Add / Minimum mark of the dipstick if you drained the oil properly. OP and many others especially DIYers who are doing the oil change the first time to the CX-5, would be questioning the specified 4.8 quarts which is way off to the Full / Maximum mark of the dipstick. That’s a big surprise to most DIYers.

The same amount of oil doesn't drain out on every oil change.
For any DIYers or the same shop, the same amount of oil will be drained out on every oil change from a CX-5 as they always follow the same steps to do it.

The normal operating range is between the Min and Max markers (it's 1 liter from Min to Max).
Yes, it certainly won’t hurt the engine as long as the oil level is above the Add / Minimum mark of the dipstick. But you do lose bigger safety margin as engine oil sometimes is consumable due to the natural of ICE、engine wear、or by accident. My personal experience on my 2018 Yaris iA proves that the engine would be ruined by leaking drain plug if the oil level wasn’t high! Besides, Mazda stated this in the owner’s manual about oil level checking:

“If it is near or below MIN, add enough oil to bring the level to MAX.“

So why don’t we put enough oil to the Full / Max mark at oil change, but add enough oil to the Full / Max mark when the oil level is low? Why is the inconsistency about this?

If 5 quarts gets you to approx the middle of the operating range, that's perfect.
But Mazda spec says 4.8 quarts for naturally aspirated 2.5L, not 5 quarts.

It's no different than the tranmission fluid level: there's a Min and a Max line and you want to be in the middle
No. The ATF dipstick, or the Mazda Workshop Manual for CX-5 doesn’t say anything about Min / Add and Max / Full marks. The thermal expansion ratio on ATF is much more sensitive than engine oil, and that’s the reason why we need to measure the ATF level at exact 122°F / 50°C. The ATF level needs to be at narrow “central marker area” at said temperature. No minimum or maximum.

Besides, ATF is operating in a sealed environment and it won’t be any possible consumptions like engine oil unless there’s an unlikely leaks developed. The need of a safety margin is minimum.

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