High Mileage CX-5s - report in

That red '13 w/277k miles is right in my backyard. If still around in the new year might test drive it. Curious to see how a CX-5 at this mileage feels. I've never driven a 2.0L version so I know that will feel different.
 
That red '13 w/277k miles is right in my backyard. If still around in the new year might test drive it. Curious to see how a CX-5 at this mileage feels. I've never driven a 2.0L version so I know that will feel different.
$7,490 for a 2013 CX-5 Touring with 277,923 miles? Not for me.

Yeah, it’d be interesting to test-drive it with such high mileage though.
 
dang I forgot about the coolant change. Ours is at 123K miles now, and I've never touched the coolant since we bought the car in 2016 with ~58K miles.
 
Mine was drained at 47k miles by dealer for the rear main seal repair back in 2019 so I guess my next change will be in 2024 or 107k miles
 
Mine was drained at 47k miles by dealer for the rear main seal repair back in 2019 so I guess my next change will be in 2024 or 107k miles
Yeah, don’t know why the factory FL22 coolant can last 120,000 miles or 10 years, but the replacement FL22 coolant can only last 60,000 miles of 5 years? :unsure:
 
Yeah, don’t know why the factory FL22 coolant can last 120,000 miles or 10 years, but the replacement FL22 coolant can only last 60,000 miles of 5 years? :unsure:
I’m thinking it’s due to the official procedure. Replacing the coolant per the Mazda guide is to drain the old coolant from below the radiator and refill with new coolant (running the engine of course after the refill and topping off as necessary). No flush described. I’m pretty sure there is no drain on the block so you’re basically refreshing the fluid doing just that. That’s my guess on the 5 year/60k mile interval afterwards.
 
Yeah, don’t know why the factory FL22 coolant can last 120,000 miles or 10 years, but the replacement FL22 coolant can only last 60,000 miles of 5 years? :unsure:

I was told years a go that the shorter replacement cycle is because 1) the original coolant isn't completely purged, 2) there are contaminants in the system from the 0 to say 120k miles that can never be completely flushed, 3) as the engine ages, the heater core and other components in the passages increases particulate sluff off.
 
who the hell designs an engine block with no coolant drain?? That's really ridiculous and short-sighted IMHO. one could do the coolant flushing procedure shown in ChrisFix's videos. That would get pretty much all the old stuff out.
 
who the hell designs an engine block with no coolant drain?? That's really ridiculous and short-sighted IMHO. one could do the coolant flushing procedure shown in ChrisFix's videos. That would get pretty much all the old stuff out.
I keep my car for as long as I can, and l’ve owned less new vehicles than most others. But this Mazda CX-5 is the first car without having a coolant drain on engine block since 1980’s.

The main problem without an engine block coolant drain is you can’t drain the coolant or distilled water during flush more completely as almost a half of the coolant or distilled water will stay in the engine. This makes us more difficult nowadays to get preferred 50/50 coolant mix, as concentrated OEM coolant most likely is no longer available. I used to pour only concentrated OEM coolant with a half of the specified coolant quantity after the distilled water flush, and sometimes I couldn’t even use it all. And that’s with an engine block coolant drain. I wonder how are we going to get recommended 50/50 coolant mix for the car without a block drain with the 50/50 coolant if we do the distilled water flush like we used to do.

BTW, that coolant looks horrible in ChrisFix's video!
 
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I keep my car for as long as I can, and l’ve owned less new vehicles than most others. But this Mazda CX-5 is the first car without having a coolant drain on engine block since 1980’s.

The main problem without an engine block coolant drain is you can’t drain the coolant or distilled water during flush more completely as almost a half of the coolant or distilled water will stay in the engine. This makes us more difficult nowadays to get preferred 50/50 coolant mix, as concentrated OEM coolant most likely is no longer available. I used to pour only concentrated OEM coolant with a half of the specified coolant quantity after the distilled water flush, and sometimes I couldn’t even use it all. And that’s with an engine block coolant drain. I wonder how are we going to get recommended 50/50 coolant mix for the car without a block drain with the 50/50 coolant if we do the distilled water flush like we used to do.

BTW, that coolant looks horrible in ChrisFix's video!
I’m probably going to perform the drain and fill procedure twice with the prediluted OEM coolant. It’s not ideal and costs a little more, but it’ll get a little more of the old stuff out.
 
I’m probably going to perform the drain and fill procedure twice with the prediluted OEM coolant. It’s not ideal and costs a little more, but it’ll get a little more of the old stuff out.
This should be my take too. It gets closer to recommended 50/50 coolant mix ratio than using distilled water flushing the system.
 
$7,490 for a 2013 CX-5 Touring with 277,923 miles? Not for me.

Yeah, it’d be interesting to test-drive it with such high mileage though.

Looks like it sold once price was dropped to around $6900.

On coolant... I find these so much easier for refill and bleeding air on coolant service.


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I bought one of those kits from Azon.

How does it work? I haven't tried it ( or read the instructions).
 
I just bought one too, thanks for the share!

The top rated review sold me. In a nutshell, you fill the radiator with coolant. Instead of replacing the cap and running the car to cycle the coolant, put that kit where the cap is supposed to go and keep it 1/4 of the way filled with coolant. When you run the car, air bubbles can escape and coolant will fill the radiator in its place.
 
I just bought one too, thanks for the share!

The top rated review sold me. In a nutshell, you fill the radiator with coolant. Instead of replacing the cap and running the car to cycle the coolant, put that kit where the cap is supposed to go and keep it 1/4 of the way filled with coolant. When you run the car, air bubbles can escape and coolant will fill the radiator in its place.
yeah, it basically makes that open top container of coolant become the highest point in the system, which makes it much more effective at getting any air pockets out. It also lets you run the engine with the coolant open, with plenty of room to expand. I used to HATE filling up and bleeding coolant in my Integra, when I would just run it with the cap off, because the level kept rising and spilling over and I'd use an entire paper towel roll trying to mop up the spilled coolant. That special funnel makes it super easy and way cleaner.
 
A tip listed in instructions.

To prevent spilling any coolant before removing device. Squeeze top radiator hose a little bit before putting in that plug in the middle. You shouldn't spill anything on removal.

Side note... Something you can do to financially support the forum is to click on the links in threads if you intend to purchase from Amazon.

 
Ordering OEM fluid has been a PITA. I ordered FZ fluid and FL22 premixed fluid from an OH dealer but they cancelled my order a few days later (simply noted “can’t ship fluid”on my PayPal refund). That had a silver lining as I found Aisin ATF-MFZ transmission fluid for $9 a quart on Rockauto. Shipping was only $20 FedEx ground for 14 quarts.

The FL22 coolant though? My local dealer in AL has it backordered and they don’t expect any until late Feb! Man alive lol. They’re the only dealer within 100 miles of me. They said they’re having to get fluid from O Reilley and dilute it for their service customers. I placed an order for OEM coolant at a different dealer based out of IL. Hopefully that one comes through : /
 
... They said they’re having to get fluid from O Reilley and dilute it for their service customers ...
Can you ask your dealer what specific fluid they're buying at O Reilley's? If it good enough for them, should be good enough for me :)
 
Ordering OEM fluid has been a PITA. I ordered FZ fluid and FL22 premixed fluid from an OH dealer but they cancelled my order a few days later (simply noted “can’t ship fluid”on my PayPal refund). That had a silver lining as I found Aisin ATF-MFZ transmission fluid for $9 a quart on Rockauto. Shipping was only $20 FedEx ground for 14 quarts.

The FL22 coolant though? My local dealer in AL has it backordered and they don’t expect any until late Feb! Man alive lol. They’re the only dealer within 100 miles of me. They said they’re having to get fluid from O Reilley and dilute it for their service customers. I placed an order for OEM coolant at a different dealer based out of IL. Hopefully that one comes through : /
I changed out my coolant last year with ZEREX ASIAN formula premix. It's blue colored. I drained and filled the radiator twice with some driving around in between to open the thermostat to ensure good mixing. Used exactly 2 of the gallon jugs. The little bit left that didn't fit in the radiator filled up the overflow reservoir. I got it at Advance Auto for $15 a jug with the 20% off for ordering online. Don't know what it costs these days.

As for Mazda FZ ATF, last year I paid $10/qt (bought 8 qts) from a Mazda dealer in Florida. Shipping was about $20 though so the order came to just over $100. It was enough for 2 drain and fills with 1/2 qt left over.
 
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Can you ask your dealer what specific fluid they're buying at O Reilley's? If it good enough for them, should be good enough for me :)
Will do if I head back in there. I called a week ago asking what their prices and stock were like, and they said they had plenty. Today was a different story LOL I’m guessing they’re using the ZEREX Asian Green formula. That’s showing in stock at local O Reilly stores.
I changed out my coolant last year with ZEREX ASIAN formula premix. It's blue colored. I drained and filled the radiator twice with some driving around in between to open the thermostat to ensure good mixing. Used exactly 2 of the gallon jugs. The little bit left that didn't fit in the radiator filled up the overflow reservoir. I got it at Advance Auto for $15 a jug with the 20% off for ordering online. Don't know what it costs these days.

As for Mazda FZ ATF, last year I paid $10/qt (bought 8 qts) from a Mazda dealer in Florida. Shipping was about $20 though so the order came to just over $100. It was enough for 2 drain and fills with 1/2 qt left over.
The dealer I ordered from is charging $20 for premixed OEM FL22. It was $61 shipped for me for 2 gallons of the premix.

If this falls through I’ll likely get the ZEREX locally and save some money.
 
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