High Mileage CX-5s - report in

[Crunchy409]

@yrwei52 Just thought I would offer an update:
--I changed the front transfer case and rear differential oil- went pretty well and didn't take long
--I changed the transmission fluid. I'm a bit confused about something. I ordered an 8 quart container to drain into and I got almost 4 liters out of it. I replaced it with the same amount and it came in WAY over the dipstick marking. I had to empty out almost a whole liter??? In the end it probably took in a little under 3 liters. Before checking the dip stick (without actually driving) I changed into several gears and made sure that the pan was 122 degrees on the outside. Should I check again after driving around a little?

Only "oopsies" I ran into....
...I did manage to strip the transmission fluid drain plug I think but it was tight. When I change it out again in a couple weeks I'll replace the plug. I looked up the correct torque on my phone in the garage and read 85 ft/lbs. I see now that was a faulty website or interpretation and it's supposed to only be 23-30... soo... hopefully I didn't mess anything else up there.

...The connectors that help hold the engine air filter in place (circled in picture here from @Digbicks1234 tutorial) got ripped off somehow. Do I need to try and remedy this somehow?

Thanks for all of your help. I'll have to see whether I want to tackle the serpentine belt tensioner

 

[ruthrj]

@yrwei52 Just thought I would offer an update:
--I changed the front transfer case and rear differential oil- went pretty well and didn't take long
--I changed the transmission fluid. I'm a bit confused about something. I ordered an 8 quart container to drain into and I got almost 4 liters out of it. I replaced it with the same amount and it came in WAY over the dipstick marking. I had to empty out almost a whole liter??? In the end it probably took in a little under 3 liters. Before checking the dip stick (without actually driving) I changed into several gears and made sure that the pan was 122 degrees on the outside. Should I check again after driving around a little?

Only "oopsies" I ran into....
...I did manage to strip the transmission fluid drain plug I think but it was tight. When I change it out again in a couple weeks I'll replace the plug. I looked up the correct torque on my phone in the garage and read 85 ft/lbs. I see now that was a faulty website or interpretation and it's supposed to only be 23-30... soo... hopefully I didn't mess anything else up there.

...The connectors that help hold the engine air filter in place (circled in picture here from @Digbicks1234 tutorial) got ripped off somehow. Do I need to try and remedy this somehow?View attachment 321449

Thanks for all of your help. I'll have to see whether I want to tackle the serpentine belt tensioner

Did you check the transmission fluid while the engine was running with the vehicle level? That could explain why the fluid was reading higher than expected.

If the transmission plug was over tightened and stripped, it was likely the pan threads that stripped (not the bolt). I’m not sure how to repair an oil pan’s threads but I’m sure there is a method short of replacing the pan.

If there isn’t oil seeping out of the tensioner you can leave it alone. If you have the 2.5 L I’ve read it can be a bit of a PITA replacing it (not much room to work on the side of the engine).

 

[Crunchy409]

Did you check the transmission fluid while the engine was running with the vehicle level? That could explain why the fluid was reading higher than expected.

I definitely did NOT check while the engine was running. I got it up to temperature and then shut the engine off before checking. I must have missed that in the directions and will try again.

I apologize for the basic question- the dipstick has a low line, a high line, and then a small rectangle in the middle. My understanding was that the fluid should be on the middle rectangle. Is that correct?

Thank you!

 

[ruthrj]

I definitely did NOT check while the engine was running. I got it up to temperature and then shut the engine off before checking. I must have missed that in the directions and will try again.

I apologize for the basic question- the dipstick has a low line, a high line, and then a small rectangle in the middle. My understanding was that the fluid should be on the middle rectangle. Is that correct?

Thank you!

No worries! That’s correct, have the fluid on the middle rectangle if possible.

Mazda CX-5 Service & Repair Manual - Automatic Transaxle Fluid (ATF) Adjustment [Fw6 A EL, Fw6 Ax EL] - Automatic

www.mcx5.org

If you drained out a liter, add some back while idling and checking the dipstick.

 

[yrwei52]

@yrwei52 Just thought I would offer an update:
--I changed the front transfer case and rear differential oil- went pretty well and didn't take long
--I changed the transmission fluid. I'm a bit confused about something. I ordered an 8 quart container to drain into and I got almost 4 liters out of it. I replaced it with the same amount and it came in WAY over the dipstick marking. I had to empty out almost a whole liter??? In the end it probably took in a little under 3 liters. Before checking the dip stick (without actually driving) I changed into several gears and made sure that the pan was 122 degrees on the outside. Should I check again after driving around a little?

Only "oopsies" I ran into....
...I did manage to strip the transmission fluid drain plug I think but it was tight. When I change it out again in a couple weeks I'll replace the plug. I looked up the correct torque on my phone in the garage and read 85 ft/lbs. I see now that was a faulty website or interpretation and it's supposed to only be 23-30... soo... hopefully I didn't mess anything else up there.

...The connectors that help hold the engine air filter in place (circled in picture here from @Digbicks1234 tutorial) got ripped off somehow. Do I need to try and remedy this somehow?View attachment 321449

Thanks for all of your help. I'll have to see whether I want to tackle the serpentine belt tensioner

Yeah like @ruthrj said the most common error checking the ATF level on the CX-5 is the engine isn’t running which will make the false reading of high ATF level.

Read it again:

...
6. Remove the dipstick and wipe ATF off using a nylon cloth while leaving the engine idling.

And:

As for the broken connectors holding the engine air filter box in place I’d at least try to use contact cement or something similar to glue the broken parts back, or the air box could be vibrating too much when the engine is running.

 

[Crunchy409]

@ruthrj @yrwei52

GOOD NEWS: Checking the level with the engine running worked perfectly and it made a huge difference.

BAD NEWS: I either don't know how to use a torque wrench or I got a terrible one (possibly both are true) and relying on that tool messed up something again. I managed to snap the bolt off that holds in the transmission fluid dipstick.

PLEASE HELP!
-->How do I get the threaded part out of the transmission? Will a simple screw extractor set from Lowes do the trick? (I already have one of these)
-->Is there a bolt I could buy at a local store that would work (at least temporarily) or is there going to be lead time on this?

Thank you!

 

[ruthrj]

@ruthrj @yrwei52

GOOD NEWS: Checking the level with the engine running worked perfectly and it made a huge difference.

BAD NEWS: I either don't know how to use a torque wrench or I got a terrible one (possibly both are true) and relying on that tool messed up something again. I managed to snap the bolt off that holds in the transmission fluid dipstick.

PLEASE HELP!
-->How do I get the threaded part out of the transmission? Will a simple screw extractor set from Lowes do the trick? (I already have one of these)
-->Is there a bolt I could buy at a local store that would work (at least temporarily) or is there going to be lead time on this?

Thank you!

Oh dang. Is there enough of the bolt sticking out to grab with pliers? I’d give that a shot first. If not I can’t offer too much advice. I admit I sheared the head off of a bolt once years ago but thankfully enough was sticking out to unscrew with pliers.

The transmission housing is aluminum so you’ll have to be careful removing the steel bolt. If you end up having to drill it out somehow, stuff/block the fill port to prevent any metal shavings from falling in the transmission.

And yes, throw that torque wrench out lol! It may not be making the “click” noise when it reaches the correct torque, or it’s at the wrong setting (Nm vs ft lbs?). That’s how I sheared the head off a bolt, first use of a harbor freight torque wrench and it didn’t click. “Huh, if I didn’t know better I’d say this is more than…” immediately sheared bolt. The dipstick bolt spec is very low, I don’t use a torque wrench on that. Hand tight and you’re good to go.

 

[yrwei52]

@ruthrj @yrwei52

GOOD NEWS: Checking the level with the engine running worked perfectly and it made a huge difference.

BAD NEWS: I either don't know how to use a torque wrench or I got a terrible one (possibly both are true) and relying on that tool messed up something again. I managed to snap the bolt off that holds in the transmission fluid dipstick.

PLEASE HELP!
-->How do I get the threaded part out of the transmission? Will a simple screw extractor set from Lowes do the trick? (I already have one of these)
-->Is there a bolt I could buy at a local store that would work (at least temporarily) or is there going to be lead time on this?

Thank you!

@ruthrj has offered excellent advice and good luck on extracting the broken bolt. When drilling, don’t let the metal debris falling into the ATF fill hole.

I had broken several bolts in early days and since I’ve been very careful on tightening the bolts and nuts especially the small ones. Living in Texas also helps not to dealing with rush issue too often. Like @ruthrj said I don’t even use torque wrench on small bolts and nuts or some thing I don’t consider the accurate torque is important. That small bolt holding the ATF dipstick is the one falls that category and I wouldn’t use a torque wrench on that. Hand tight is good enough and don’t use too much force on it.

In addition, make sure to use the correct scale between ft-lb and in-lb. And don’t get confused with NM too.

Although I have a couple of old Sears Craftsman ½” torque wrenches, I also have ½”、⅜”、¼” basis torque wrenches from Harbor Freight Tools. So far I’ve no issues of using HFT torque wrenches.

 

[Crunchy409]

“Huh, if I didn’t know better I’d say this is more than…” immediately sheared bolt

LOL... that's pretty much exactly how my morning went.

Definitely don't think that there is enough bolt sticking out. I haven't had too much time with it. I was filling up the extra fluid before heading off to work so that my wife would have a vehicle and of course this happened. I'll attack it later tonight, just planning my attack at the moment. I was definitely planning on putting some painters tape over the opening or something like that.

I'm having trouble finding the bolt online as well- part 99454-0616 I believe. I am waiting for a call back from the nearest dealer, but that's an hour away. Any chance we could drive without the bolt installed? I assume that's a huge and vehement no-no.

 

[PatrickGSR94]

you don't really need a super special OEM bolt for the dipstick. Any flanged-head 6x1.0mm, 16mm long bolt will work just fine. I have a whole bag full of 'em in my garage, yellow zinc grade 10.9 versions, that I use all over my cars to replace old, crusty OEM bolts. Used extensively on my Miata when I had the engine out last winter.

 

[Crunchy409]

you don't really need a super special OEM bolt for the dipstick. Any flanged-head 6x1.0mm, 16mm long bolt will work just fine. I have a whole bag full of 'em in my garage, yellow zinc grade 10.9 versions, that I use all over my cars to replace old, crusty OEM bolts. Used extensively on my Miata when I had the engine out last winter.

This is awesome news. Do you think Autozone, Advance Auto Parts, or Lowes would carry something that works? Or should I stop by a local Ford dealer? (that's all we have in town)

 

[Jmaz]

If the head twisted off of the bolt then the tension should be released. Therefore you might try backing the bolt out with a sharp pointed chisel and small hammer. This way there are no metal filings from drilling. I'd expect it would come out rather easy.

 

[Crunchy409]

If the head twisted off of the bolt then the tension should be released. Therefore you might try backing the bolt out with a sharp pointed chisel and small hammer. This way there are no metal filings from drilling. I'd expect it would come out rather easy.

I like your thinking there.

Would there be another (potentially redundant) bolt somewhere else on the vehicle with the same specs that I could borrow until I acqure another?

 

[HyFlyer]

How about zip-tie the dipstick in place? That little bolt is just keeping the dipstick from vibrating out.

Some broken bolt extraction ideas if you have trouble with the others ...

Use a Dremel tool with a tiny cutoff wheel to cut a slot in the top of the bolt and use a flat head screw driver to remove (or make a cross cut and use a Phillips screwdriver)

Use super glue or a polymer like jb weld to attach something on the top of broken bolt to turn it out

Screw extractor set

[Shrugg shoulders] just leave it zip-tied

 

[PatrickGSR94]

I like your thinking there.

Would there be another (potentially redundant) bolt somewhere else on the vehicle with the same specs that I could borrow until I acqure another?

Anything with a 10mm hex head that's around 5/8" long would work fine. I'm sure there's something around the radiator support area. But the bolt itself is really common. I got a bag of 50 here, but any hardware store should have it. JIS Flange Bolt 10.9 Coarse M6X1.0 / 10mm Wrench

 

[Crunchy409]

@PatrickGSR94 @HyFlyer @Jmaz @yrwei52

Guys we're back in business! The bolt sheered off bolt threading was actually pretty easy to turn and work out far enough where I could grab it with needle nose. @Jmaz nailed it on the head there. The only bolt I was able to find local was a non-flanged 6 x 1.0mm 20mm and I added two washers to get the length about right.

Fluid is topped off correctly with engine running and we appear good to go!

Still confused #1: This guide shows torque specs: "

1. Transmission Dipstick Bolt: 71 - 97 in lbf" That can't be right can it? That's what I was going by.

Still confused #2: these missing guides for the air filter box.. I wonder if perhaps they broke off when we hit a deer on that front drivers side corner a year ago. What's missing looks like it would be fairly heavy duty and I never found any broken pieces when I pulled the assembly out the first time. What is it supposed to look like?

 

[yrwei52]

@PatrickGSR94 @HyFlyer @Jmaz @yrwei52

Guys we're back in business! The bolt sheered off bolt threading was actually pretty easy to turn and work out far enough where I could grab it with needle nose. @Jmaz nailed it on the head there. The only bolt I was able to find local was a non-flanged 6 x 1.0mm 20mm and I added two washers to get the length about right.

Just like @jmaz predicted.

Fluid is topped off correctly with engine running and we appear good to go!

Are you going to do 2 more drain-and-fill? Or drop the pan to change the filter? What kind of OBDII reader you’re using to get the ATF temp?

Still confused #1: This guide shows torque specs: "

1. Transmission Dipstick Bolt: 71 - 97 in lbf" That can't be right can it? That's what I was going by.

As I mentioned earlier, you got confused between in-lbf and ft-lbf. 71 ~ 97 in-lbf (5.9 ~ 8.1 ft-lbf) is a very small torque range usually you can only find such light torque scale on a ¼” torque wrench. Like @ruthrj, I usually don’t bother to use a torque wrench for such light torque value.

Still confused #2: these missing guides for the air filter box.. I wonder if perhaps they broke off when we hit a deer on that front drivers side corner a year ago. What's missing looks like it would be fairly heavy duty and I never found any broken pieces when I pulled the assembly out the first time. What is it supposed to look like?
View attachment 321506

Can you still see the plastic pins at the bottom of the air box? Can you see #2 grommet there? I really don’t think hitting a deer would cause this especially you couldn’t find any broken parts near by.

 

[Crunchy409]

Are you going to do 2 more drain-and-fill? Or drop the pan to change the filter? What kind of OBDII reader you’re using to get the ATF temp?

I think the plan is to skip the pan drop, but definitely do 1 or 2 more drain-and-fills. My OBDII reader doesn't do ATF temp so I have to admit this was not very scientific- while the plastic undercarriage protector was down over the weekend I used an infrared temperature gauge on the pan. I ran the car today roughly as long as I ran it over the weekend to get the correct temp on the pan. Is there a budget option that would work for this? How long do I wait between drain-and-fills?

Can you still see the plastic pins at the bottom of the air box? Can you see #2 grommet there? I really don’t think hitting a deer would cause this especially you couldn’t find any broken parts near by.

I'm not sure I understand the "plastic pins at the bottom of the airbox" part but I definitely see the #2 grommets. They are currently attached to my air box. For clarification, the deer strike was a year ago and almost totaled the vehicle. What I meant was that this weekend when doing the work I felt like I didn't pull the airbox out with excessive force that would have broken anything off, and I did not find any pieces indicating that I did.

**I have to say that this forum is amazing. Totally awesome information given freely, quickly, and consistently without any attitude. I totally whiffed several times on the in-lbf and ft-lbf and no one even ranted about my stupidity... I might still return the torque wrench so that I can keep the story alive that it's not my dumb fault

 

[Jmaz]

I think the plan is to skip the pan drop, but definitely do 1 or 2 more drain-and-fills. My OBDII reader doesn't do ATF temp so I have to admit this was not very scientific- while the plastic undercarriage protector was down over the weekend I used an infrared temperature gauge on the pan. I ran the car today roughly as long as I ran it over the weekend to get the correct temp on the pan. Is there a budget option that would work for this? How long do I wait between drain-and-fills?

I'm not sure I understand the "plastic pins at the bottom of the airbox" part but I definitely see the #2 grommets. They are currently attached to my air box. For clarification, the deer strike was a year ago and almost totaled the vehicle. What I meant was that this weekend when doing the work I felt like I didn't pull the airbox out with excessive force that would have broken anything off, and I did not find any pieces indicating that I did.

**I have to say that this forum is amazing. Totally awesome information given freely, quickly, and consistently without any attitude. I totally whiffed several times on the in-lbf and ft-lbf and no one even ranted about my stupidity... I might still return the torque wrench so that I can keep the story alive that it's not my dumb fault

I'd skip the torque wrench for the dipstick bolt and snug it up by hand. That's all I did and from underneath. It wasn't hard working by feel. Didn't even have an in-lb torque wrench at the time( now I got a good one and don't know if/when it'll be needed but I'll be ready LOL) You could include a lock washer for one of the washers in the stack. Good to see you got the broken bolt out.

 

[madar]

Infrared reader won't give you an accurate reading, I tried it and compared it to my OB2. Maybe get a thermometer for checking meat temperature and stick it in there if you want to get more accurate.