Has Anyone Had Their Fuel Pump/Cover Leak?

+1 to bikingpro5. I used a dental pick kind of tool to clean out the screw heads, then used an impact tool and hammer to get them out. I was amazed they came out without snapping off (had to happen sometime I guess).
 
+1 to bikingpro5. I used a dental pick kind of tool to clean out the screw heads, then used an impact tool and hammer to get them out. I was amazed they came out without snapping off (had to happen sometime I guess).

I had one screw head snap off, ended up twisting it out with some vice-grips. I was really lucky, only had 1/8th" of screw to hold on to.
 
My housing was already cut. That wire simply goes nowhere. I figure maybe some other car uses the same filter housing and it's just extra for our car. It looks like perhaps another terminal would plug into it on the housing but there is no such terminal for our car.

Here's another pic.

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PS,... I keep all my old parts,... they come in handy for reference all the time.

Hey guys, I was a member a LONG time ago. A friend still has his MP5 and we are doing his pump and I messed up by pulling too hard on the pump and didn't notice this jumper ground that seems to go no where.

Anyways, as always, when I had my protege I loved this site and the original Protege.com site. There is a world of info on here. Even the dealer couldn't tell me where that wire connected to.

So THANKS!

Oh, here's what I had.

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You can Dremel a slot into the heads and make the phillips into slotted. You'd be running into the issue with sparks, though. I've heard that you can fill a tank with water to purge the fumes and make it safe to drill, weld, etc. It'd be quite a job to drop the tank, drain the fuel, fill it with water, do your thing, drain the water, and mount it back up.

The hardware is 4mm X 8mm. (UPDATE 10/01/08: 8mm length is hard to find so I wound up using 10mm length with a few washers on each screw to take up the length). I got them at Home Depot. They had phillips, hex and allen cap head. I went with the cap head because I think an allen will be easier to grab than a phillips if I have to do this a second time but I'm having second thoughts about them being plain steel. I want to check a real HARDWARE store and see if I can find stainless in case I ever have to remove them again. The stainless will corrode less and should be stronger to reduce the chance of snapping them while trying to loosen them.

Edit: Oh, here's the Home Depot barcode: 0 30699 82558 5

That I can paint barcode in vb.net.
 
Mad props to the OP on this. I had this problem on my MSP that had been in storage in Michigan for the last five years and only just started driving it again. All the part numbers matched up, and cost about $120 from some online place in California. Mine was rusted as heck as well, and ended up having to just leave posts in two slots because I couldn't get them backed out and my screw out drilled out the heads. Once I removed the assembly I decided against gambling on my good fortune to use a smaller screw out what with half a tank of gas sitting right there.

Definitely go to Autozone and rent the master line disconnect kit. You'll use the 2nd to smallest green one. One of the lines will be a bear to get the disconnect on, but tap it with a screw driver and hammer and it'll do it's job. (for the fuel lines) Took me about 3 hours to get the screws out, then another 2 hours to pull the housing, replace the fuel pump into the new assembly, and reinstall, test, then button everything back up. Couldn't have done it without this writeup though!
 
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