FS-DE Oil System

Can an awr pan be modified to accommodate this gate system? I wish the ext prv setup was available when I swapped in my motor. Still have some topend work to do in the future so when the time comes this is definely on the list. :)


Don't get me wrong...the AWR pan is very good for what it was intended for. It does have a variation on the theme of the gates with the directional tabs. However, if you are expecting some real movement of the oil in the pan there is nothing around the bottom of the pan where the head of the pickup sits. Due to the nature of the AWR pan with the upper plate welded in it looks like it might be quite a lot of work to add a gated system. I think it might be easier (and less expensive) to have a pan fabbed like the one we use. (just my 2 cents)


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well.. start fabbin!!!


We have looked at producing pans in the past. Our pan design is rather time intensive and ends up costing more than most are willing to pay for one.

Being able to do your own fabrication work has its advantages.(wink)

As with some of the other parts, if there were enough interest I could look into it again.....
 
We have looked at producing pans in the past. Our pan design is rather time intensive and ends up costing more than most are willing to pay for one.

Being able to do your own fabrication work has its advantages.(wink)

As with some of the other parts, if there were enough interest I could look into it again.....

well.. i'll need a 1 off.. or 2 off pan.. pm me some pricing.. i'll be doing track racing.. but i'm going to be doing a twin charged setup.

i hate that the AWR won't allow me to run my gt spec bar.
 
I'm really excited to install this. How do you suggest tapping my P5 girdle since it has those concave sections along it's sides? Should I have someone fill it with weld and then tap it with my NPT or should I tap it first and then weld the fitting in?:confused:


The way I did mine was drilled a 1/2" hole in the MBSP. The hole is off set to the fitting that was already in my AWR pan so the connections would not inerfere with each other. I purchased an AN-10 weld fitting and took it to a guy that builds chassis for drag cars so he could tig weld it for me. He made a deflector shield so when the oil goes thru, it stays away from the crank area. He did all that for only $40. Good price in my opinion.

The concave makes it harder, but in no way impossible. If anything, the trick is to shape the fitting to match the curves before it gets welded. I suggest a bung because if you just tap the plate, you will have issues with leaks because there is nothing for it to seat against.
 
The way I did mine was drilled a 1/2" hole in the MBSP. The hole is off set to the fitting that was already in my AWR pan so the connections would not inerfere with each other. I purchased an AN-10 weld fitting and took it to a guy that builds chassis for drag cars so he could tig weld it for me. He made a deflector shield so when the oil goes thru, it stays away from the crank area. He did all that for only $40. Good price in my opinion.

The concave makes it harder, but in no way impossible. If anything, the trick is to shape the fitting to match the curves before it gets welded. I suggest a bung because if you just tap the plate, you will have issues with leaks because there is nothing for it to seat against.

Well...there you go from someone who has done it!! Thanks Signature Sound(cool) This forum is great with even greater members!!
 
ok i have a oil pump with like 30k and i really dont wanna spend 100 bucks on the pump service? how much just to make it unregulated or whatever?
 
ok i have a oil pump with like 30k and i really dont wanna spend 100 bucks on the pump service? how much just to make it unregulated or whatever?

To make it externally regualted you will need some type of system such as our external regulator to regualte your oil pressure. If you purchase a regulator from us ($130) I will convert your pump for $10 (plus return shipping). If you only want your pump converted and will be supplying your own regulator then the service is $25 (plus return shipping).
 
awesome thats what i was looking for. how hard is it to tune the regulator? and is it a specific one or is there a cheaper one that will work for a mild protege
 
I would just go with the peterson one from Doc B. A little expensive but, extremely easy to tune and accurate.
 
here are some photos of my system. BigLou is absolutely right about how easy it is to tune. relocating the oil filter is a must for our car. plus the extra capacity is nice.

the Setrab oil cooler is mounted in the passenger wheel well, where the wiper fluid tanks USED to be.

I decided to go with the bigger AN -12 oil lines and fittings. I am here to prove that pressure is NOT an issue with the coating treatment. I can run well over 90 psi oil pressure at 5000 rpm! didnt do it on purpose.

the huge peterson oil filter kit is working very well. its a reuseable stainless mesh filter that will eventually pay for itself. easy to clean and get to.

anyone even thinking about turbo-ing their ride better do this mod now, or pay big time later like I did.
 

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here are some photos of my system. BigLou is absolutely right about how easy it is to tune. relocating the oil filter is a must for our car. plus the extra capacity is nice.

the Setrab oil cooler is mounted in the passenger wheel well, where the wiper fluid tanks USED to be.

I decided to go with the bigger AN -12 oil lines and fittings. I am here to prove that pressure is NOT an issue with the coating treatment. I can run well over 90 psi oil pressure at 5000 rpm! didnt do it on purpose.

the huge peterson oil filter kit is working very well. its a reuseable stainless mesh filter that will eventually pay for itself. easy to clean and get to.

anyone even thinking about turbo-ing their ride better do this mod now, or pay big time later like I did.

Two Word's, ******* SEXY!!
 
here are some photos of my system. BigLou is absolutely right about how easy it is to tune. relocating the oil filter is a must for our car. plus the extra capacity is nice.

the Setrab oil cooler is mounted in the passenger wheel well, where the wiper fluid tanks USED to be.

I decided to go with the bigger AN -12 oil lines and fittings. I am here to prove that pressure is NOT an issue with the coating treatment. I can run well over 90 psi oil pressure at 5000 rpm! didnt do it on purpose.

the huge peterson oil filter kit is working very well. its a reuseable stainless mesh filter that will eventually pay for itself. easy to clean and get to.

anyone even thinking about turbo-ing their ride better do this mod now, or pay big time later like I did.

Signature Sound I like your setup.
Did you just delete the wiper fluid tank or did you relocate it? I notice there are holes in front of the cooler, did you have to make those? How is air flow in the fender well? Are you still running the fog lights?
 
here are some photos of my system. BigLou is absolutely right about how easy it is to tune. relocating the oil filter is a must for our car. plus the extra capacity is nice.

the Setrab oil cooler is mounted in the passenger wheel well, where the wiper fluid tanks USED to be.

I decided to go with the bigger AN -12 oil lines and fittings. I am here to prove that pressure is NOT an issue with the coating treatment. I can run well over 90 psi oil pressure at 5000 rpm! didnt do it on purpose.

the huge peterson oil filter kit is working very well. its a reuseable stainless mesh filter that will eventually pay for itself. easy to clean and get to.

anyone even thinking about turbo-ing their ride better do this mod now, or pay big time later like I did.
baller dude. i'm excited for this. i need to buy it.. they make reusable oil filters for my busa. which i'm excited for... but do they make that kinda thing for our car? cu i'm looking for a spin on reusable filter.
 
Signature Sound I like your setup.
Did you just delete the wiper fluid tank or did you relocate it? I notice there are holes in front of the cooler, did you have to make those? How is air flow in the fender well? Are you still running the fog lights?

I deleted the fog lights and wiper tanks, but there is room for both depending on oil cooler size. On the drivers side I used my old AEM CAI for a ram air into the new intake. On the passenger side I am using a straight 3" pipe to direct air to the oil cooler. The holes drilled behind the oil cooler allow the air to flow thru. I just used a step drill bit for that.

The new coated pump and regulator is definitely the lifeline of the whole motor. Be sure to get a gauge with this setup, if u don't already have one. U wont be able to set it up without one.
 
Okay, I've been through 3 NA motors in a Protege and am DEATHLY afraid of blowing the motor in my MSP. From what I read, getting the oil pump coated/bypass valve, along with a new oil pan and pressure regulator should help prevent me from blowing it up if I decided to do a track day or two per year. Is this accurate or did I miss what was going on in this thread? Seems like spending the $500 now will prevent me from spending the $3000 later... lol
 
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