FREE MPI help!

xelderx said:
That is what I understand. What we need to find out is how much of the MPI's graph is useless to us. At what loads/RPMs does the ECU switch to open loop?

IIRC, if you're above ~4500rpm or so, you're in open loop no matter what.

Also, if you're above maybe 70% throttle, you're also in open loop no matter what.

I recall it being along those lines.

With a good OBD-II scantool and an hour of playing with it, you'd be able to narrow down approximately what conditions would bring you into open loop.
 
Kooldino said:
IIRC, if you're above ~4500rpm or so, you're in open loop no matter what.

Also, if you're above maybe 70% throttle, you're also in open loop no matter what.

I recall it being along those lines.

With a good OBD-II scantool and an hour of playing with it, you'd be able to narrow down approximately what conditions would bring you into open loop.
dana, does the MPI have a knock sensor or w/e? i've been contemplating getting the J&S safegauard along with the mpi...good idea or bad?
 
Whats a w/e?
boostdprotegelx said:
dana, does the MPI have a knock sensor or w/e? i've been contemplating getting the J&S safegauard along with the mpi...good idea or bad?
Warning!!! MPI Tuner + J&S Safeguard!
http://www.msprotege.com/vbb300/showthread.php?t=62668

Anyways, learned alot from Nick on the phone today.
Let me try to sum up:
  1. I do not have the Blue MPI wire hooked up to ECU# 88 so no MAF signal to read.
  2. I should start trimming fuel on the Analog Map and that:
    • Negative values ADD fuel
    • Positive values REDUCE fuel
  3. Open loop does engage around 4500 rpm, but does NOT "ignore" the MPI map settings
  4. I need to install a switch before the software will allow creation of 2nd Map (aka Map B)
  5. Aim for AFR of low to mid 12s
  6. Tune fuel first
  7. The timing map 1 unit = 1 degree of spark timing
    • (+/advance & -/retard)
  8. Timing can range from -44 to +44
  9. Less retarding is needed with higher octanes
How do I translate all this into more power now....
Look! Up in the sky! Its a bird! No, a plane!
No, it's....TUNER BOY.....My Hero!
 
Crazee D said:
  1. Open loop does engage around 4500 rpm, but does NOT "ignore" the MPI map settings
He needs to define "ignore" I was on the phone with him while my car was on the dyno doing WOT pulls. We were changing #s in the MPI including the overall fuel calibration and I ran steady 11.5:1 A/F no matter what #'s we used positive or negative.
 
The 2.08v is for turbo application. You are not tuning via MAF, so disregard that number. I'm not sure on the WOT tuning N/A. I was able to add fuel via O2 tuning at WOT, but never tried to pull fuel. I got a full point richer adding fuel that way, so I would think you could go a full point leaner, but I am not sure. I would go by what he says since I have never tuned an N/A application.

I have a local guy here with an MPI that he is waiting to use with a turbo. I want to try to get it in his car and tune it for N/A so I have a better understanding, but no luck yet.
 
terbow said:
w/e is whatever
ty

xelderx said:
[/list]He needs to define "ignore" I was on the phone with him while my car was on the dyno doing WOT pulls. We were changing #s in the MPI including the overall fuel calibration and I ran steady 11.5:1 A/F no matter what #'s we used positive or negative.

Yah, I asked him a number of different ways, but was not able to get him to say point blank that the tuning maps have no effect in open loop.
It was mildly uncomfortable.
I asked if there was any control over where open loop engages and was told no. AND No also to any control over redline. (pissed)
I was told not to modify the global settings(RTM)

Timm, did u take a look at my datalog? My map is basically zeroed now with -5 on Analog Map in 1st and 2nd columns

I was thinkin about trying to make a few "test" maps to sample the beasts reactions.

I'm only workin on how much fuel to pull and where?
 
I've got my dyno charts in front of me so I can kind of tell you where my car started getting rich. These were wide open pulls so it will only affect the very far right column. My car stayed above 12.8 A/F until 3400rpm. It hovered around 12.0-12.5 from 3400-5300. Then it dove down into the to 11.6-11.7 range from 5300-6500. Unfortunately, it sounds like all WOT stuff will always be open loop. The problem is that is where we need the help. The car runs relatively good A/F in closed loop.
 
boostdprotegelx said:
dana, does the MPI have a knock sensor or w/e? i've been contemplating getting the J&S safegauard along with the mpi...good idea or bad?

Dont waste that much money, you can get a standalone and get full control plus knock retard (some standalones) with a similar amount of money or even less.

Tunning a standalone is not that bad, in fact, is just as difficult as the MPI except that it has a lot of other features you can get into....its full control man!

I was able to start, idle and run the car @ 10psi with a Wolf 3D EMS on the street without wideband, EGT or dyno, when it was put into the dyno it pushed 236whp, when tunned right with the WB, it got up to 262whp
 
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igdrasil said:
Dont waste that much money, you can get a standalone and get full control plus knock retard (some standalones) with a similar amount of money or even less.

Tunning a standalone is not that bad, in fact, is just as difficult as the MPI except that it has a lot of other features you can get into....its full control man!

I was able to start, idle and run the car @ 10psi with a Wolf 3D EMS on the street without wideband, EGT or dyno, when it was put into the dyno it pushed 236whp, when tunned right with the WB, it got up to 262whp
i have the MPi currently. I just haven't installed it. And dana is gonna be the one to install it..i was just wondering if it'll help out my situation.
 
boostdprotegelx said:
i have the MPi currently. I just haven't installed it. And dana is gonna be the one to install it..i was just wondering if it'll help out my situation.

Well, all I can say is, retard as much as possible until torque starts to drop too much, then advance 1-2 degress from that, this way you will be safe and may not need the J&S.
This engine likes to run low advance, 14-16deg of total advancing on WOT.
 
igdrasil said:
Well, all I can say is, retard as much as possible until torque starts to drop too much, then advance 1-2 degress from that, this way you will be safe and may not need the J&S.
This engine likes to run low advance, 14-16deg of total advancing on WOT.
ok fair enough. i might pick it up anyways.ii'm gonna contact dana and see what his idea is.
 
Hey guys... Where is the ECU located?
I'm trying to install the MPI, but I dont know where to find the wires for the stock ECU.
 
Ok guys, I'm almost done...For step #18 it says : Install the red wire on the Turbo module to the red/white fuel pump feed wire located on the drivers side of the shifter. Do not use the white/red wire, please take your time and look real close. If you make a mistake and use the wrong wire please call Mazda and order new coils, you just fried yours. You will find it by following the wire loom that enters under the front part of the center console. The wire loom will start right above the PCM loom and then run to the front center console under the vents/air duct. This is the only 12 volt key on source that you can use for the red wire in the Turbo module. Do not use any other 12 volt key on source.
But I have an automatic and I cant find any red/white wires on the driver's side of the shifter. Should it still be the same for an auto???
 
GMalatrasi said:
Plz guys I need to finish this tomorrow...

yes it's there...let me fine the pic...look here
attachment.php
 
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Ok i finished the installation
Now for the tunning: I need all the global settings for my application. And a basic map for a stock P5 would help too.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
Bump for some much needed help!!
I cant get it to lean out enough to even be above the min of 11.6 AFR
Is there a way to tell the MPI to let the ECU run the car?
 
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