FREE MPI help!

[mazdaspeed75]

x

Rich i think its time to get some times out of them with vid to prove. Iam waiting on some track time . I think i have to find the sweet spot for my setup like MR Zoom zoom did . So if i can spend some time tweaking . Low 13s should be atainable . Hell i had a dam guy ride with me the other day and said whta do you run low 13s . Nope not yet . Hell ive only been like 3 times Last time i went was April 2004 .

 

[BlkZoomZoom]

Well in reality all our cars (Mine, 505's, probably yours, etc.) would run mid 12's if we could get launches like an Srt-4 can. I have consistantly beat cars that run 12.60-12.30's with the built motor, it's just it wouldn't stop spinning until the middle to end of 3rd gear.

 

[smo0f]

Lol, deal... you fly here though.

Knock on wood and all that, but how is it that your s*** didnt blow up yet? Just curious

 

[Jeph]

Back on topic... What exactly does lowering your upper fuel cal. do?

 

[Bigg Tim]

Back on topic... What exactly does lowering your upper fuel cal. do?

The fuel upper limit limits the MAF voltage the ECU see's. So far it seems that on MSP's, and maybe regular pro's, you need to limit the voltage it see's as you go higher in boost. By doing this you also limit the amount of fuel you can get via stock injectors, so xtra injectors are essential when you do this. I guess the extra flow the MAF is seeing at higher boost causes problems, so by limiting the max MAF voltage, you take care of that.

If you add race fuel, just make a race fuel map and save it so when you put it in, you switch to that map and you're set.

 

[mazdaspeed75]

yep

I would love to go to 13 psi I saw 15 psi once and wholly s*** . Car was a beast . But iam playing safe because the dam car is nice with were i have it now.

 

[Bigg Tim]

When tuning your car, don't "overtune" the off boost area. All you need to do is set the analog output voltage at idle to 2-2.08v. Then cruise on the highway off boost and watch the AFR cycle on the MPI SW. It should ONLY cycle between 14-15 max! If it is going higher or lower, adjust the value in increments of 1's until you get it to cycle that way. Each time you adjust a value, give it a few seconds to see how it responds.

If the AFR cycles too much while cruising, this is in closed loop, it WILL throw a code because stock it does not cycle too much. The little display on the bottom of the SW should have nice consistant humps while cruising. Once you have that, do yourself a favor and leave the non boost area alone. There's no need to change it from stock. Just work on the boost area.

Also, if you have xtra injectors and are having problems with tuning the switch point, disconnect the purple TM wires, and yellow if you have them, and just use the xtra injectors more. This will make the Switch point much easier and will not require the 1x16 column to be tuned. Now this is ONLY if you have xtra injectors. If you do not, then you have to stick with then and tune it. I'll try to do a write up again on how to tune.

 

[Moeed]

When tuning your car, don't "overtune" the off boost area. All you need to do is set the analog output voltage at idle to 2-2.08v. Then cruise on the highway off boost and watch the AFR cycle on the MPI SW. It should ONLY cycle between 14-15 max! If it is going higher or lower, adjust the value in increments of 1's until you get it to cycle that way. Each time you adjust a value, give it a few seconds to see how it responds.

If the AFR cycles too much while cruising, this is in closed loop, it WILL throw a code because stock it does not cycle too much. The little display on the bottom of the SW should have nice consistant humps while cruising. Once you have that, do yourself a favor and leave the non boost area alone. There's no need to change it from stock. Just work on the boost area.

Also, if you have xtra injectors and are having problems with tuning the switch point, disconnect the purple TM wires, and yellow if you have them, and just use the xtra injectors more. This will make the Switch point much easier and will not require the 1x16 column to be tuned. Now this is ONLY if you have xtra injectors. If you do not, then you have to stick with then and tune it. I'll try to do a write up again on how to tune.

I am doing this method, and let me tell you guys, tuning is 123 ABC simple with the extra injectors.

 

[geomatics_tech]

I just got my mpi tuner delivered to the office today.(rockon)

shaun

 

[Bigg Tim]

I just got my mpi tuner delivered to the office today.(rockon)

shaun

Cool deal. Just remember to take your time during the install and quad-drupple check everything. Please do not use any type of butt connectors or splices, do it right with some solder and save the potential headache.

R U running xtra injectors or no? Since you have the speed, if yours has purple wires on the turbo module, do not hook them up, skip that step. Get your analog output voltage (you can see it on the left side of the software) to be around 2-2.08v at idle when the engine is WARM and the fans oare off. Then make your non boost area be those values or a couple lower. Drive around in non boost and watch the AFR IN meter. It should only cycle between 14-15 max. If it cycles too much, raise or lower the numbers to get it in that range. Then all the non boost area should have those values.

Now when you do this, the AFR may fluctuate more then normal because the ECU would have been reset, from when you disconnect the battery to do the wiring. This is normal because the OBDII ECU is "learning" what your car is doing. That is why it's important to get the analog out at warm idle to be that number range. This will help the ECU learn like the car is stock. Set the switch point to come on when you hit 1-2psi.

The beginning may take a litle bit to do because you will have a learning curve and the ECU is still "learning". BE PATIENT, don't expect miracles rihgt away, you will have to tune the thing to get the full potential out of it. Good luck, keep us updated.

 

[geomatics_tech]

I have read over the install and it seems rather straight forward, you instructions look great tim. I want to do it right the first time, so Im gonna take my time and like you said quadruple check everything. Im probably not going to install for a while, I need to get my boost gauge/controller installed first. Im going to do the wiring and a friend is gonna solder it once I know its all good.

I did not get the extra injector setup, thoigh Im wondering how much easier it will make the tuning? My current setup is a turbohoses smic + pipes and a MAM catted mid pipe. I just bought a profec b spec 2 because it has a gauge built in as well. Im not planning on boosting more than 8 psi. My goal is just to make the car run smoother.

To get my analog output voltage between 2.0-2.08v, which values am I manipulating? I know there is a 1x16, and 8x16 grid. can you explain briefly what each of these represent? I think the 1x16 is the load on the engine, but am unclear on how these work exactly. I know the fuel can be added or removed through the 8x16, what are the two axis of the grid representing? I understand the concepts, but just want to know how to use the software. I havent had a chance to look at the software yet.

Im looking forward to my mpi adventure, just want to make sure Im prepared.

thanks,
Shaun (canada)

 

[Bigg Tim]

I have read over the install and it seems rather straight forward, you instructions look great tim. I want to do it right the first time, so Im gonna take my time and like you said quadruple check everything. Im probably not going to install for a while, I need to get my boost gauge/controller installed first. Im going to do the wiring and a friend is gonna solder it once I know its all good.

I did not get the extra injector setup, thoigh Im wondering how much easier it will make the tuning? My current setup is a turbohoses smic + pipes and a MAM catted mid pipe. I just bought a profec b spec 2 because it has a gauge built in as well. Im not planning on boosting more than 8 psi. My goal is just to make the car run smoother.

To get my analog output voltage between 2.0-2.08v, which values am I manipulating? I know there is a 1x16, and 8x16 grid. can you explain briefly what each of these represent? I think the 1x16 is the load on the engine, but am unclear on how these work exactly. I know the fuel can be added or removed through the 8x16, what are the two axis of the grid representing? I understand the concepts, but just want to know how to use the software. I havent had a chance to look at the software yet.

Im looking forward to my mpi adventure, just want to make sure Im prepared.

thanks,
Shaun (canada)

Since you have an MSP, the purple wires are not needed for what you want to run. You won't need the xtra injectors until you up the boost, so you should be just fine with what you want to do.

The 1x16 is the load and it kinda like a muliplier to the 8x16. So if you have a 1 in the 1x16, it will give you the full value in the 8x16 for whatever box you are in. If you have a lower number in the 1x16, then it will lower the value in teh 8x16 wherever you are on that map. But since you will not be using the purple wires, this shouldn't have to be used so much, so leave them all 1's and see what happens.

To get the analog out voltage at idle, you can adjust the fuel calibration in teh global settings or just raise or lower the value in the idle box. The fuel calibration will richen or lean the WHOLE map out, whereas it you just increase or decrease 1 box, it's only in that box. There is more to the 1x16 tuning and the fuel cal, but this is the jist. You should get it when you get to playing with it when it's online.(thumb)

 

[geomatics_tech]

To get the analog out voltage at idle, you can adjust the fuel calibration in teh global settings or just raise or lower the value in the idle box. The fuel calibration will richen or lean the WHOLE map out, whereas it you just increase or decrease 1 box, it's only in that box.

That sounds straight forward, though Im still a little unclear on adjusting the voltage (it just sounds to easy, and like Im missing a step). Can I change the voltage value to the deired amount in the idle box directly? So, say Im at 2.11v can I just type in 2.04v?

Also, I installed the software on my laptop but now it is asking me for the security key in drive A. Problem being my laptop doesn't have a drive A, what can I do?

Shaun

 

[gboromsp]

No you can't change the voltage like that, but you can increase or decrease the number in the box that your car idles in and watch the voltage on the left side of the software until you get it where you need it.

Go to my computer, open your D: drive(where ever the cd is) and look for the security key. Now find your program files folder in the C: and then find the mpi folder. Copy and paste the security key to the mpi folder. Open the software and enjoy.

That sounds straight forward, though Im still a little unclear on adjusting the voltage (it just sounds to easy, and like Im missing a step). Can I change the voltage value to the deired amount in the idle box directly? So, say Im at 2.11v can I just type in 2.04v?

Also, I installed the software on my laptop but now it is asking me for the security key in drive A. Problem being my laptop doesn't have a drive A, what can I do?

Shaun

 

[Bigg Tim]

^^^Just like the man said!!!! The voltage is just using numbers. Like I have 3's in my idle area and 0's in the rest of the non boost area. Each value represent .039v or so change. You basically want to do like I said above, that should make it run with no codes and drive like stock. Mine runs perfect and I get ZERO codes, so don't let anyone tell you that all MPI's get codes. If done right and not "overtuned" you don't get codes. I think the main reason people get codes is becasue they try to tune too much in closed loop, which is not needed because the ECU will do that for you.

 

[sniper9]

not to threadjack but is it possible to have too much timing pulled. I have a gt28rs on my stock block msp and its hitting 12 psi without a boost controller I want to have conserative timing but i think it may be too much. Its almost -15 in somespots an my car seems to bog and buck even if the air/fuel is around 11. Could this be due to timing being retarded to much?

 

[mazdaspeed75]

You have around what i have pulled out on the stock t25 . Mine is running pretty good and plugs seem to look good to. That is something i would like to get a better tune on The timming seems to be a little bit different for everyone due to climate. But my timming has bee this way a long time now and still toegther so i guess iam good . Also ran a 17 psi srt and he started to only pull the end of third and by the end of 4th had a car and half thats it He is putting down 250 260 . So i think i have a pretty good tune . But who knows on the timming for sure i may could squeeze a few more ponnies or i could go boom boom lets go back to the room . (hah)

 

[Bigg Tim]

not to threadjack but is it possible to have too much timing pulled. I have a gt28rs on my stock block msp and its hitting 12 psi without a boost controller I want to have conserative timing but i think it may be too much. Its almost -15 in somespots an my car seems to bog and buck even if the air/fuel is around 11. Could this be due to timing being retarded to much?

the bog and buck could be because of the switch point. Do you have that tuned out? As for the -15, s*** I run that at 8psi on my MP3, so you should be fine there. A little extra out doesn't hurt, I have proved this on the dyno. I have about 4-5 degree's out that make no change when I add them back in, well almost no change, we're talking maybe 1-2 hp. So I left those out as a little "saftey margin".

Check the switch point out, you may need to trim some more via the 1x16 column and in the 8x16 area where it comes on.

 

[sniper9]

i turned the switch off and because im using dual aux injectors. I turned the fuel Cal down to -2 right now and some bucking went away. Before at about 11.5-12 afr it would buck so maybe I was maxing out the stock injectors? It cold right now here maybe about 40. The car just feels really really slow for running 12psi on a gt28rs...

 

[MPNick]

i turned the switch off and because im using dual aux injectors. I turned the fuel Cal down to -2 right now and some bucking went away. Before at about 11.5-12 afr it would buck so maybe I was maxing out the stock injectors? It cold right now here maybe about 40. The car just feels really really slow for running 12psi on a gt28rs...

Call me at the shop on Saturday.