forge bov

Was just a lil confused about you saying hitting 18psi or something. You just spiking to that in higher gears?

Yes. 5th and 6th. Also note that I've not verified that the BG is completely accurate so it may be off by a notch or so...
 
I get 17-18 in those gears (spiking) so I think it's safe to say it's about right. You didn't get that before getting the forge valve? I'm on stock valve and that's how mine is
 
Concerning maintenance on the valves, we recommend checking them periodically, length of the intervals really depend on conditions where the car is driven. Extreme cold, extreme hot, dusty climates require more frequent checks.

Servicing every oil change would be EXTREME overkill. There are people that have one of our valves for 5 years without a service. BUT that isn't recommended. I typically suggest doing the "pen-test" every six months or once a year to determine if the valve needs to be serviced. The pen-test is detailed in this PDF:
http://www.forgemotorsport.com/media/valve_service(1).pdf
 
Concerning maintenance on the valves, we recommend checking them periodically, length of the intervals really depend on conditions where the car is driven. Extreme cold, extreme hot, dusty climates require more frequent checks.

Servicing every oil change would be EXTREME overkill. There are people that have one of our valves for 5 years without a service. BUT that isn't recommended. I typically suggest doing the "pen-test" every six months or once a year to determine if the valve needs to be serviced. The pen-test is detailed in this PDF:
http://www.forgemotorsport.com/media/valve_service(1).pdf

Rock on ill
 
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Concerning maintenance on the valves, we recommend checking them periodically, length of the intervals really depend on conditions where the car is driven. Extreme cold, extreme hot, dusty climates require more frequent checks.

Servicing every oil change would be EXTREME overkill. There are people that have one of our valves for 5 years without a service. BUT that isn't recommended. I typically suggest doing the "pen-test" every six months or once a year to determine if the valve needs to be serviced. The pen-test is detailed in this PDF:
http://www.forgemotorsport.com/media/valve_service(1).pdf

Thanks for the help!
 
Here is the way that we typically rate the springs:

Black <10 (made specifically for the MSP)
Green 5-15
Yellow 15-23
Blue 23-30
Red 30+

That being said those numbers were derived based on our replacements for the Bosch 25mm valve used on a VW/Audi 1.8T. From what I've gleaned with our prototype hybrid valve for the MS cars the 2.3 requires much greater spring tension than the VAG 1.8Ts.

Tentatively I will extend the following:

Blue - stock boost
Blue with shims - <20
Red - >20

Input?

I've already asked that all future valves come pre-installed with the blue spring.
 
Here is the way that we typically rate the springs:

Black <10 (made specifically for the MSP)
Green 5-15
Yellow 15-23
Blue 23-30
Red 30+

That being said those numbers were derived based on our replacements for the Bosch 25mm valve used on a VW/Audi 1.8T. From what I've gleaned with our prototype hybrid valve for the MS cars the 2.3 requires much greater spring tension than the VAG 1.8Ts.

Tentatively I will extend the following:

Blue - stock boost
Blue with shims - <20
Red - >20

Input?

I've already asked that all future valves come pre-installed with the blue spring.


cool! is this just the rates for the hybrid valve? Everyone seems to be using the blue spring on the BPV. However i was getting lots of surge at partial throttle med boost situations. Any advice ?
 
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Not for the hybrid at all, it uses a conical spring and tension is adjusted by a ratcheting knob. The fact that the spring we use for the VAGs isn't stiff enough at the highest tension to get the spring to seal at idle on the 2.3 made me think to look into spring tensions on the MAZ3 valve.

Are you saying you would get surge while accelerating under those conditions or when lifting the throttle from one of them?
 
Not for the hybrid at all, it uses a conical spring and tension is adjusted by a ratcheting knob. The fact that the spring we use for the VAGs isn't stiff enough at the highest tension to get the spring to seal at idle on the 2.3 made me think to look into spring tensions on the MAZ3 valve.

Are you saying you would get surge while accelerating under those conditions or when lifting the throttle from one of them?

Surge was using the blue spring and lifting off the throttle yes..
 
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Here is the way that we typically rate the springs:

Black <10 (made specifically for the MSP)
Green 5-15
Yellow 15-23
Blue 23-30
Red 30+

That being said those numbers were derived based on our replacements for the Bosch 25mm valve used on a VW/Audi 1.8T. From what I've gleaned with our prototype hybrid valve for the MS cars the 2.3 requires much greater spring tension than the VAG 1.8Ts.

Tentatively I will extend the following:

Blue - stock boost
Blue with shims - <20
Red - >20

Input?

I've already asked that all future valves come pre-installed with the blue spring.

thats what i told patrick r. when i tested these for you guys....blue spring for sure. i am in the middle zone right now. i am at 19-20 psi. i like the sound of the blue +2 shims better, but the little voice in my head keeps telling me to keep the red one in.
 
thats what i told patrick r. when i tested these for you guys....blue spring for sure. i am in the middle zone right now. i am at 19-20 psi. i like the sound of the blue +2 shims better, but the little voice in my head keeps telling me to keep the red one in.

OK i must be doing something wrong can anyone verify ??? i am at stock boost using the yellow spring because when i lift of the gas my car doesent surge. Using the blue spring i get surging. Am i just crazy ??
 

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