For all proteges: Info about our ride

[xeon8]

2000 Mazda Protege BJ1, 221500kms

1. 5sp Manual
2. Original motor - ZM-DE
3. Timing belt once, water pump never.
4. Runs perfectly.
5. No rust whatsoever (except for a tiny patch under the hood - only surface rust though)

 

[Dadkins]

2003.5 es 2.0 auto/stick with 114.550 miles and counting... Original engine and trans bought it with 18k in 06. 2 sets of brakes 3 sets of tires, sway bar end links, front wheel bearings, regular maintenece parts.
Needs: new valve cover gasket, slowly leaks oil onto my header - while I am in there I may do my timing belt water pump,
it has a slight stumbling idle and slight erratic misfire - coil packs / plugs should take care of this. I have a little clunk coming from the front - I think it may be the end links...again. Other than that and the relentless rust on my back fenders - a little on my drivers door inside and top of the windshild. Shes PRO!

 

[kamesama980]

02 P5 85k miles
1. Auto
2. All original
3. All original
4. I think it's slow but might just be perspective.
5. light rust in the rear 1/4s. noticed last summer it's starting in the rear door frame. Pretty bad in the engine bay next to the passenger fender engine mount.

 

[Installshield 2]

^^about a month ago i got around to repairing some rust around the mount you're talking about...i'd suggest not putting it off, as it'll eventually eat away at the actual shock tower if gone unchecked...

the front wheel wells consist of very thick sheet metal peices shaped to form the tower, and seam welded at the top...the forward peice then runs forward to that mount...and just in front of the mounting bracket, it stops (at about the 1 oclock position if looking at the wheel)...to finish the well, a super thing piece of sheet metal is layered over the thicker flange, and goes to around the 3 oclock position before staying flat and goes up to the head light area...In the well, there is a seam weld exposed to everything...that is what happened with mine, that weld rusted out in a few small spots, allowing water to wick up inbetween the thin and thick metal layering...

its very hard to explain what i mean...but was pretty simple to fix...i just filled the holes, used por-15-like rusted metal treatment, and 3m rubberized spray to undercoat the entire forward section of that wheel well...hoping i stopped it...I can see why that seam weld would fail, though...the factory does not spray that section with ANY undercoating...it was just bare galvanized steel in there, which has held up surprisingly well...but a thick coat of undercoating would've prevented it completely...

i'll be dealing with the passenger rear fender as early as this weekend, hopefully...we'll see if that one is any harder to slow down...

 

[boostracer]

03 Protege ES with 136,138 miles on 'er.
1. Manual
2. Original motor and tranny
3. Timing belt was replaced less than 20,000 miles ago, and I'm fairly certain the water pump is original.
4. Protege runs flawlessly, with no leaks. I just put in new spark plugs, oil, and oil filter less than 150 miles ago. The front wheel bearings were replaced less than 1000 miles ago.
5. I don't have any rust as far as I know. None in the engine bay or wheel wells. I guess I'm just lucky that my city doesn't use salt on snowy/icy roads.

I don't really have any details or warnings because I haven't owned the car even a year yet. I haven't really had any issues.

 

[kms1990]

2003 protege 5 143,000 miles manual, timing belt w/p were replaced at 110k miles. new hoses and drive belts, newer tires, well waxed and a new audio system (my dad had it before me, he didnt do much to audio im an audiophile so....) i started her on castrol edge with spt when i got her and a new k and n oe replacement air filter, iridium plugs and new wires done after timing belt.


tip if it runs rough, try seafoam through vacuum line on brake booster, there is a how to on here, easy to do, fun to create a smoke screen for a minute, and your prot will thank you

 

[gage311]

02 protege 236k
1. Manual
2. Original motor swapped tranny
3. water pump is original but i think the timing belt was done
4. currently not running (spun bearing check my post in how to)
5. rust is pretty bad patched 2 holes in the floor not to mention quarter panels and engine bay

I should also mention i live in Mass which does terrible thing to car

 

[MistaMazda]

2001 Mazda Protege ES 103,300

1:Manual
2: everything is original
3: about to replace the timing belt, water pump and valve cover seal for the first time
4: only problem right now is a slight oil leak from the valve cover, other than that it runs like new. i need to tighten the screws in the dash a bit because it has gotten a bit loose from the road vibrations.
5: zero rust, the car was garaged and maintained extremely well before i bought it.

the stock head unit is sub par but easily replaced

 

[lowlevel]

2002 Mazda Proteg 5 198,900 km

1. Manual
2. Original engine, clutch and transmission.
3. Timing belt and water pump replaced once, not sure exactly when but probably around recommended interval.
4. Engine and transmission seem good.. Alternator replaced, suspension bushings all bad, bearings replaced multiple times, EGR replaced.
5. Rust is pretty bad. Rotten rear fender arches, bottom lip of both front doors, under floors/foot wells, front cross member. Oil pan rusted through, had to be replaced.
Car sat outside most of its life. Rust proofed once when new, never again. Currently has front end vibration problem, suspect tires.

 

[Jackie chan]

2002 Protege5 144,000 miles

1.Manual
2.original motor and trans (except for the head at 141,000 and the clutch at 137,000)
3.timing belt and water pump done at 90,000 miles
4.Runs good for the most part, dippy idle and mild detonation. Doesn't burn any oil or coolant, no smoke, no leaks, 30-ish mpg.
5.No rust worth mentioning, vibration and noise are definitely present because i stripped a lot of the sound proofing and have awr motor mounts.