Fishdonotbounce's 2008.5 CWP Speed3 GT "Build" Thread

I ran HPS on my Neons and there was slightly more dust than stock. The Miata got HP+ with Powerslots and I didn't think it was an insane amount of dust? I mean more than stock but the pads are that much better... guess that's how I justify it lol.


PMing you btw...
 
Lewis7789 said:
Not really an inaccurate statement on my behalf. Maybe I should clarify;

With my slow-ass P5, I had Brembo blank rotors and Hawk HPS pads for 3 years and brake dust wasn't an issue with my silver Enkeis and the white GramLites. I also ran black ASA's so I can't comment on the amount of brake dust due to the color.

Peaches ran Hawk HP+ on the GramLites and they had tons of brake dust. Phen, how much brake dust did youget with your HP+, white wheels and slotted rotors?
Click to expand...

To compare the dust between HP+ and HPS would be like comparing fuel consumption between a Geo Metro and a Ferrari 458. I have a lot of dust, but I don't use my brakes much. I always downshift. Driving styles will make a huge difference. Not to mention vehicle weight, and brand of rotors. Not all rotors will work nicely with a specific brand of pads. When I bought my HP+'s, I looked thru a list of rotors that they play nicely with. For example, I believe it was Stop Tech that doeesn't work well with HP+'s.
 
Shamu got a wash today. It was disgusting once again. It will now stay in the garage or parked for most of the time since I bought a daily driver: a 1989 Ford Probe.

I got the Probe for 1100 and it is an Oklahoma car. It has 196000 miles on it and has a motor out of the same generation MX-6 in it. I took it in to get aligned and they said that I need a new inner tie rod on the driver's side. I decided to do it myself and paid 25 bucks for it at O'Reilly. I rented the inner tie rod removal tool and went to work last night. The whole process took an hour. My room mate and I couldn't believe how easy it all was. I was very impressed. The old inner tie rod was absolutely shot. I also changed the oil and the oil filter. The old oil was nasty. I took it in to get aligned today and they said that they couldn't align it because the lower ball joints were bad on both sides. They gave me a quote of 500 dollars to fix it. I scoffed. Came home and ordered two new control arms with ball joints brand new for $83.50. By the time all is said and done, I will have about 1500-1600 into the car. Considering the fact that it will keep the crazy miles off Shamu and will save me $1500 a year on gas alone, I'd say it was an investment well worth it. Easy to maintain, easy to fix, and reliable. here are some pictures of the new ride. It has different wheels than it did at the time of these pictures. The previous owner swapped them.

100_6984.JPG


100_6982.JPG


100_6976.JPG
 
we want recent pics! I would be surprised if you had closer to 2k into it by the end of the maintenance and what not and it'll still be a great deal.
 
THE Phen said:
I always downshift. Driving styles will make a huge difference. Not to mention vehicle weight, and brand of rotors.
Click to expand...

I always downshift, too, even in the Yota, but it gets waaaay more brake dust than the 626, so I'll second the vehicle weight. Maybe warped rotors allow more dust to escape?!
 
Glad you're enjoying it, Ivan!

And geeze...I wonder what the alignment shop will tell you the car needs next time? I hate that s***. Makes you wonder if they're just trying to pump money/work out of you.
 
Lol I know. The first time it was Conrad's and they've always been very honest with me about stuff. The video shows that they weren't just blowing smoke. This time I went to Mr. Tire because it was down the road. I ordered the control arms since I didn't want to mess with pressing the ball joints out and in. I'm up to $1407 with the control arms and everything. About 65 for alignment when the new control arms are installed and I'll be in at $1472. There are little things here and there that will pop up but the car is extremely cheap to replace components on. It's a great feeling having two cars.
 
Why sink unnecessary money into a daily driver when you have a perfectly good car sitting in the garage?
 
THE Phen said:
Why sink unnecessary money into a daily driver when you have a perfectly good car sitting in the garage?
Click to expand...

I guess that's a matter of personal priorities. I'd want my DD to be fun to drive so I don't hate my life (ask me how I know, getting passed by minivans on hills on the way to work) driving to and from work every day trying to save money to fix up my project. Then you have to make a special effort to go out and drive your project [pointlessly] on the weekends. I guess for me that's why a truck is a good second vehicle, as I can still DD it if the 626 goes down, or in the winter, and it can haul a lot of junk around with it in my free time.
 
The Probe is staying the way it is. What needs replaced gets replaced but no mods. It's just a point A to point B car. Nice find on the turbo setup though!
 
I cannot wait to get my new tires in. Continental ExtremeContact DW in 235/40-18. I have a tab open with the tirerack site for it and I keep looking at them.
 
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