First oil change?

[Saskatchewan17]

So I have a question... when should I do my first oil change? I'm fast approaching 3k miles (2797 on the odo) and I want to know if I should change it at 3,000 miles. The manual says 5k is the severe interval. But what about the first change?

 

[Speed3ForMe]

I didn't change my oil until 4,800 miles and again at 9,600. Then again I do 90% Highway and don't drive very hard. I drive like a granny and cruise control my way to school at 70mph.

 

[RadSpeed3]

So I have a question... when should I do my first oil change? I'm fast approaching 3k miles (2797 on the odo) and I want to know if I should change it at 3,000 miles. The manual says 5k is the severe interval. But what about the first change?

The reason is why they recommend that is because there is chemicals in that oil from the factory that is used too break in your engine, plus there is metal shavings that need to be taken out. Slowly increase your speeds to create even wear on the internals and then about 10k can be your major oil change and put in a top syn. oil.

 

[BillTheCat]

Wow... loaded question... and you're likely to get some passionate responses. I personally followed a break in pricedure similar to this and changed my oil at 1k miles with full synthetic. If I wasn't so cheap & lazy, I would have changed it at 300 or so with conventional oil, then again at 1k with synthetic. Been every 3-4k since then. (Full synthetic)

A lot of it truly depends on how severe your weather is and how hard you drive the car.

 

[RadSpeed3]

Wow... loaded question... and you're likely to get some passionate responses. I personally followed a break in pricedure similar to this and changed my oil at 1k miles with full synthetic. If I wasn't so cheap & lazy, I would have changed it at 300 or so with conventional oil, then again at 1k with synthetic. Been every 3-4k since then. (Full synthetic)

A lot of it truly depends on how severe your weather is and how hard you drive the car.

Nothing wrong with that and there are alot of variables and get that intital crap out of then engine then start fresh with a good break in.

 

[MikeHTally]

First one at 1K, second at 3K, third at 4,500 when my spin-on conversion went on. Next one at 8,500 or so when I switch to synthetic.

 

[Saskatchewan17]

Ok... would you support my idea of changing it out at 3k then? & what kind of oil should I use... as in synthetic or not yet.

 

[BlackCherry06]

I'd go ahead and do it if I were you. There's a strong possiblility that the car has been cranked and shut off quickly a bunch, which can cause fuel dilution and moisture condensation in the oil. Add break-in metals and assembly lube to that mix and you have something that I wouldn't want circulating around my engine for very long.

5W-30 synthetic is this engine's friend. Are you planning to do oil changes yourself?

 

[Saskatchewan17]

I'd go ahead and do it if I were you. There's a strong possiblility that the car has been cranked and shut off quickly a bunch, which can cause fuel dilution and moisture condensation in the oil. Add break-in metals and assembly lube to that mix and you have something that I wouldn't want circulating around my engine for very long.

5W-30 synthetic is this engine's friend. Are you planning to do oil changes yourself?

Unfortunatley, we bought a prepayed service plan for the car, so I'll be taking it to the dealer... they use the good stuff, but I don't get to get my hands dirty. And I always gently shut it down... I idle for 20 seconds to let the turbo cool after a long or hard drive. Reading the manual really helps. (RTM)

 

[BlackCherry06]

Keep a close eye on your service department. I don't know what you mean by 'good stuff', but if you're talking about some dino or syn-blend oil, full-syn is much better. Make sure they pay attention to the viscosity. While other Mazdas call for 5W-20, this car requires 5W-30. Since dealers usually just keep a huge barrell of one viscosity in stock, you could end up with the wrong oil if they're not paying attention.

 

[RadSpeed3]

Keep a close eye on your service department. I don't know what you mean by 'good stuff', but if you're talking about some dino or syn-blend oil, full-syn is much better. Make sure they pay attention to the viscosity. While other Mazdas call for 5W-20, this car requires 5W-30. Since dealers usually just keep a huge barrell of one viscosity in stock, you could end up with the wrong oil if they're not paying attention.

Agree..x2. I would rather do a oil change myself then let someone else do it.

 

[MikeHTally]

I'd almost bet the dealer doesn't even know what the "good stuff" is. (nervous)

 

[RadSpeed3]

Their version of the "Good Stuff" is recycled mineral oil in a 55 gallon barrel. Good stuff for them = Bad crap for your car.

You can just ask them what they use and have them prove that they use fresh syn. oil if they have it.

 

[MikeHTally]

Their version of the "Good Stuff" is recycled mineral oil in a 55 gallon barrel. Good stuff for them = Bad crap for your car...

More than likely... (and only an OEM filter).

 

[Saskatchewan17]

Hmm... interesting... We've been bringing the 6 to the dealer since it was new. If I can I'll see if we can use those service cupon thingys on that and I'll see if I can do my own change. What oil & filter do you guys recommend?

 

[MATT DAMOND]

I'd recommend the factory filter. The price was less than the Fram filter, plus it looked more filter-ey.

 

[BlackCherry06]

Penzoil Platinum 5W-30 and a Mazda filter. You're also gonna need to pick up a cup-style filter wrench and above all else..use a torque wrench when tightening the filter housing. It's plastic, which is fine if you treat it properly. But if you crawl under there and try to remove it with pipe pliers, or over-tighten it (even with the correct tool), it may crack.

You don't want to know what happens after a crack forms in the filter housing. It's the stuff of nightmares.

 

[Sport6]

Also keep all your receipts for every change, it might save your pockets later on if it ever comes to that!

 

[MikeHTally]

Penzoil Platinum 5W-30 and a Mazda filter. You're also gonna need to pick up a cup-style filter wrench and above all else..use a torque wrench when tightening the filter housing. It's plastic, which is fine if you treat it properly. But if you crawl under there and try to remove it with pipe pliers, or over-tighten it (even with the correct tool), it may crack.

You don't want to know what happens after a crack forms in the filter housing. It's the stuff of nightmares.

Spin-on conversion! Yea, baby!!!

 

[meicalnissyen]

So I have a question... when should I do my first oil change? I'm fast approaching 3k miles (2797 on the odo) and I want to know if I should change it at 3,000 miles. The manual says 5k is the severe interval. But what about the first change?

about 2K ago
most metal to metal wear occurs right away as the machining marks are buffed off against each other.
the early change gets those fragments out of the system before they serve as a source of spalling