First CX-5 oil drain

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erhayes

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2022CX5 PP
I just did my first oil change and wanted to share my findings. When I removed the drain plug I looked at the oil pan to remove the plug gasket and non was there. I found the aluminum gasket painted on the plug. The pan was pained with plug in place. I had to use a sharp knife and insert it between the plug and gasket and give the knife a sharp wack with a piece of wood to remove it. I can only wonder how many engines have two gaskets running around. Just a thought. Ed
 
I just did my first oil change and wanted to share my findings. When I removed the drain plug I looked at the oil pan to remove the plug gasket and non was there. I found the aluminum gasket painted on the plug. The pan was pained with plug in place. I had to use a sharp knife and insert it between the plug and gasket and give the knife a sharp wack with a piece of wood to remove it. I can only wonder how many engines have two gaskets running around. Just a thought. Ed
Had a similar issue with ours. I do not lift the vehicle, so I didn't get a good look at it to see if it was painted on. I used a similar method to get it off.
 
Mine was the same way. I know that I'm tempting fate but I reused the stuck on aluminum washer even though I have a bag full of them.
 
I just did my first oil change and wanted to share my findings. When I removed the drain plug I looked at the oil pan to remove the plug gasket and non was there. I found the aluminum gasket painted on the plug. The pan was pained with plug in place. I had to use a sharp knife and insert it between the plug and gasket and give the knife a sharp wack with a piece of wood to remove it. I can only wonder how many engines have two gaskets running around. Just a thought. Ed
Yep it’s been mentioned many times before:

⋯ only hiccup was I had a very hard time getting the old aluminum crush washer off the drain plug flange, it was really stuck on there, I had to use an xacto knife blade to separate the old crush washer from the drain plug.

note: I can easily see for any first timer to think that there is no crush washer or if they lost the crush washer when it's actually there stuck on the plug flange, I thought the same thing it looked like one piece and the crush washer was missing, but when I compared the new crush washer supplied by Med center Mazda versus the drain plug, I can clearly see the crush washer stuck on there. I used a miniature flat blade screwdriver but that didn't work so I used an Xacto knife to get that damn thing off. I hope no one doubled up on the crush washers thinking the original crush washer was part of the drain plug.
 
It also takes a ton of torque to break it loose. I thought the shop must have overtorqued it, but the 2nd time I did mine, it also took some effort to crack it free. Now I use a Fumoto valve.
 
I don't tighten mine too much. I use a 14mm neoprene washer like the Honda plug has.
 
I just did my first oil change and wanted to share my findings. When I removed the drain plug I looked at the oil pan to remove the plug gasket and non was there. I found the aluminum gasket painted on the plug. The pan was pained with plug in place. I had to use a sharp knife and insert it between the plug and gasket and give the knife a sharp wack with a piece of wood to remove it. I can only wonder how many engines have two gaskets running around. Just a thought. Ed
It seems like you have been here forever, this is your first oil change?
 
Foolish question: I have a 2020 Signature purchased October 2020; what type of drain plug do I have? In other words, what tool will I need?
 
Foolish question: I have a 2020 Signature purchased October 2020; what type of drain plug do I have? In other words, what tool will I need?

I think the newer models use hex bolts, so you'd use a hex socket. I don't remember the size though.
 
It’d be interesting to see how much oil you need to change the oil on your 2.5T?

Obviously that would depend on where he prefers the oil level to be on the dipstick.

oil level.JPG


For some reason I can't seem to find the previously available approximate oil capacity listed in the 2020 CX-5 owner's manual or my 2018 CX-9 owner's manual (both online versions), but logically, an approximation makes the most sense based on both user preference and the range considered "OK" between the MAX and MIN marks on the dipstick. When you also consider other factors like drain time, oil dilution/consumption, prefilling the oil filter, etc., an approximation makes the most sense.

You can say the same about torque specs, to a degree. Stating a range instead of a specific value accounts for the variance in accuracy that some consumer-level torque wrenches may have, as well as any variances that may occur from a torque wrench that may not be calibrated perfectly. It would make sense to assign a hard value if the instructions stated to use a torque wrench that has been verified to be correctly calibrated and accurate to the in/lb, but they do not.
 
I pour an entire 5qt jug of oil in the engine. It should be ok. I think there is a certain amount of flexibility in how much is ok.
After all the oil level sometimes goes down after a number of miles.
 
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