Finally installed my HiBoost kit

hey man you pm'ed me a few weeks ago, your setup looks good, exactly the same as mine, with a few small differences. like for example im running no o2's right now cause i didnt know where to put my lc1, how exactly did you mount your sensor. and also my maf is located after the turbo right now as i didnt know what to do with that small "s" pipe, but after seeing your pics now i see the filter and maf mount to it. ive been running my kit now for about 7 months and my car is running very strong, just rolled over 100,000 miles. good to see another boosted es out there! heres a pic where you can see my front end is just as hacked up as yours.
l_63aac213ddec4d7616a1c49fdbec4992.jpg
 
i was considering it, but with the amount of cutting i did i left it in there hoping it would help keep it from flexing and getting crushed.


and i have an innovate LC-1 WBO2 and exedy stage 1 clutch

how do you like the LC-1? i have that kit being delivered today with the G2 gauge. have you connected it to a laptop yet? how difficult was the install? i know you have to calibrate everything...just wondering how long it took you to put in.

thanks!
 
cosmicbluejosh - thats crazy how our s*** looks the exact same. yeah it took a bit to figure out the routing of the charge pipes since theres no instructions but it's good. did you have to grind your block to fit the turbo? for the O2 sensor, get under the car and find a good position to mount the sensor where it won't be in the way, on the left side of the downpipe. mark it, then i drilled a 1/4 hole and welded the bung on there. make sure you put the plug in there when you weld it, don't bottom it out but about halfway or a little more. it'll help protect the threads. i forgot to do this on the first one and had to spend a good amount of time cleaning the threads from the slag.

for the LC-1 i ziptied it to the two A/C lines directly behind the passenger headlight right before they bend up towards the firewall. i ran the wires throught the grommet for the main harness.

how is the MAF workin out for you after the turbo? i thought about doin that.

Topher - i like the LC-1, easy install. i'd say an hour maybe if you're quick and know where everything is. it's got a few quirks, like when you go to start the car after you turn the key to ignition and the gauge does it's test, wait for the heater warmup sequence to start counting up for a second or two before you start. it seems everytime i immediatly go to start the power drain somehow resets the sensor and it goes through the entire calibration sequence. also if you hotswap the minijack cables the sensor can pick it up as a signal to change the lamba conversion ratio. i had this and my AFR's were reading in the 20's under normal operation until i hooked up the computer and changed the conversion back to 14.7
 
so today i installed, the new medieval P/S pulley, Perrin fuel rail and the wrx injectors. :) well at least i'm not running lean anymore with my IAT reading 66 degrees. lol. ECU runs them pretty good aside from some moments. still need to retune it. especially low boost where the afr drops to 8 and stumbles.

also i found out the turbo specs.

P/N - 810023

Automotive Application - HIGH PERFORMANCE E.U.A TURBO SUPER 50 STAGE ll

Turbine Housing - MONOFLUXO UNDIVIDED

Turbine - EXD 54.6, IND 61.5, TRIM 79, A/R - .63
Compressor - IND 52.5, EXD 76, TRIM 48, A/R - .50

HP Range - 300-500




http://www.masterpower.com.br/novoSite/siteIngles/prodLista.php?btTipo=1
 
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yeah it is crazy how alike they look. i didnt have to grind the block to get the turbo to fit, however i did have to cut the fan shroud a bit because i dont have slim fans. the maf is working good after the turbo, does it make any big difference on whether it goes before or after? whats that you have tapped into the manifold? im doing the 03.5 msp conversion so hopefully my intercooler wont hang out there as much after that.
 
go down to advanced auto parts, get a hayden auto, imperial 10" slimfan. it's like 50 bucks, and you can set it up as either a pusher or a puller. it works great, havn't had any problems with ti and it looks great. so much room.

doing the MAF relocation runs smoother since it's metering the acual air entering the engine, also being after the BOV you won't go rich or have the car stall when you vent the bov to the atmosphere.

EGT sensor in the manifold.

yeha i'm lookin at a msp front end, and skirts.
 
yeah ill have to get that fan when i get back, im in iraq at the moment. you got yours set up as a puller? so esentially our maf setup is the same because even though its after the turbo its still before the bov. this is the first boosted car ive had so im still learning the ins and outs. im gonna get the msp conversion from pg most likely.
 
yeah mine is set up as a puller. there's not enough room between the radiator and the A/C condensor. but it still fits perfect.

also i took the stock fan, took the motor out, beat it open and cut the brushes off the connector and soldered the fan wires to it so i didn't have to cut the harness in the car :)
 
could you please post your SSAFC map for me please... i wanna compare what i got to what you have... i figure the ES and Pro5 ECUs probably have nearly the same stock tune
 
could you please post your SSAFC map for me please... i wanna compare what i got to what you have... i figure the ES and Pro5 ECUs probably have nearly the same stock tune

yes they are the same.

EDIT: the temps here have been in the 50'sF i've had IAT temps reading 60-70F.

since i put in the 440 injectors i am running crazy rich. 9.6-10 afr in boost. i havn't had time to tune it so i try to stay out of boost, so my map is pretty much useless right now. if you are running 440 injectors you can probably leave everything above 0inHG at 10 to start and pull from there. i have output B set at over pressure, .01 PSI. i'm at 9.4 in the map from .5-4.5 PSI and my afr is still 9-10 also i think i'm gonna switch the load setting from vacuum/pressure to absolute pressure and see if it runs better.

with the 440 injectors theres some weird "hole" around -10inHg, (i'm guessing from -12inHg to -8inHg) at anything over barely touching the throttle, for some reason it goes rediculous rich, 8-9afr. above that it sits around 11.5-11.8 until boost. i'm gonna have to find where this hole starts and set the ouput B there and tune it. my gas milage sucks dick right now.

lookin at your mods, you definitely need larger injectors. have you maxed your MAF voltage yet? thats how i tuned with the stock injectors, i set everything at like 12.5 or higher until i maxed the MAF voltage. then every 1,000 rpms i backed off .2 until i could pull through that rpm without hitting fuel cut.
 
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thanks. I'm not sure what's the max number I can put in. Been kinda hard to tune by myself. I did try putting in 12s and I get fuel cut.
 
the max depends on what the unchanged voltage is. if it's already high your not gonna be able to go much over 10. you need bigger injectors. try backing off at that rpm until there is no fuel cut. but make sure you don't go lean.
 
wow, very impressive! the install looks very clean. the FMIC looks badass behind that stock bumper haha! how do you like the synchronic BOV? i've heard all good things.
 
this is not NA guys, theres no room for trial and error.

you cant floor to find out the car goes lean, then back it out. thats too dangerous for the engine, espically with a t3/t4 turbo.

NA cars can do that because theres alot more room for error. but when turbos come into play it is a hole other ball game
 
wow, very impressive! the install looks very clean. the FMIC looks badass behind that stock bumper haha! how do you like the synchronic BOV? i've heard all good things.

the synchronic bov is pretty good. i'm running it with the anti-stall valve as well. as shady as that thing looks it's holding up so far, except the cap that goes on the end to cover the bolt fell out. lol. it's my first turbo so i really have nothing to compare it to. it sounds great, responds fast, even at very low boost. hell it opens even when i keep it in vacuum. only problem i had was i missed the part about the preload screw in the manual. i guess to fit them in the box they ship them with the preload screw all the way tightened. so i was getting rediculous compressor surge. after backing it out all the way which is where the manual says it should be, no more surge.
 
this is not NA guys, theres no room for trial and error.

you cant floor to find out the car goes lean, then back it out. thats too dangerous for the engine, espically with a t3/t4 turbo.

NA cars can do that because theres alot more room for error. but when turbos come into play it is a hole other ball game

how else do you tune? better to start rich and pull from there. as long as your smart about it.
 
yea start rich and pull from there. dont let the car go lean, and keep watching the car go lean. the engine doesnt like it.

for example- it is like punching yourself in the head. do you have to do it a second time to tell your self it hurts? lmfao.
 
i know, thats what i was saying, hence maxing out the fuel cut. bigger injectors are whats needed, but if you can get it just below fuel cut and not be running lean it should be fine. ran like that for a week
 
yup kinda scary...
hehe jamesk... i keep punching myself in the head.... im gonna stop doing that... as an extra precaution i even turned the boost down
well that should change shortly when my MSP ECU comes in...
then when i get my microtech installed i'll be kissing both the MSP ECU and SSAFC goodbye
 
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