Final Install Pics

[Sir Nuke]

Well here is what the install of the amp under my seat looks like. it went very well...its very clean and I had NO problems.

all the speaker wires went into loom then under the console to and from the head unit...

the power lead came through the fire wall on the drivers side and down behind the kickpanel and then under the door sill with the other wiring....

The ground wire is connected under the plastic cover to the seat mounting point.

the Subs Speaker wiring went out and back along the drivers side under the piller covering and the rear door sill plate with the other wiring and then into the back to the sub.

 

[quik]

Nice and Clean

Looks good Nuke!

 

[mypfizzle]

nice.. wanna come put mine in for me -=)

 

[Sir Nuke]

nice.. wanna come put mine in for me -=)

sure thing.....lets see...

travel expences about $400 for air fire, $60 for a night in a hotel, $40 for a rental car, $30 for food, $35/hour for 5 hours (the actual install)....ahhhh that should do it....

of course you already baught all the parts....so no charge there...

$705 is my fee.....something tells me you can get it done cheaper locally...lol

(stash)

 

[Equinox]

the cool thing about having the amp under your seat is you can blow cold air onto it using your A/C, haha

 

[mypfizzle]

hmM.. maybe i should just get off my lazy ass an do it my self. -=)
thanks for the quote tho. LoL

 

[sttl013]

the cool thing about having the amp under your seat is you can blow cold air onto it using your A/C, haha

And burn 'em up in the winter with the heat!!

Make sure you close them off in the cold weather.

 

[1sty]

Sir Nuke, why didn't you cut a slit in the carpet under the seat so the power wires wouldn't be visable?

 

[Sir Nuke]

Sir Nuke, why didn't you cut a slit in the carpet under the seat so the power wires wouldn't be visable?

I am going to do that....just was working against the clock that day I did the install...as it was....I ended up I finished only 30 minutes before I had to go to work....I am going to go back on my next weekend off and hide the power/ground/ and speaker wire to the sub where it goes from the edge of the car over to the amp.

 

[Sir Nuke]

the cool thing about having the amp under your seat is you can blow cold air onto it using your A/C, haha

with the amp sitting sideways so that all the wire connectors are on the two ends away from everyones toes....the air duct is very much in the way....I used some snips to cut it off at the front...and blocked off that duct using high density foam insulation....no cold OR HOT air can come out of that duct work.

 

[Equinox]

with the amp sitting sideways so that all the wire connectors are on the two ends away from everyones toes....the air duct is very much in the way....I used some snips to cut it off at the front...and blocked off that duct using high density foam insulation....no cold OR HOT air can come out of that duct work.

wow nuke...I'm impressed you actualy did a mod that can't be fixed back to stock form. Bravo and welcome to the true mod world

 

[Sir Nuke]

wow nuke...I'm impressed you actualy did a mod that can't be fixed back to stock form. Bravo and welcome to the true mod world

lol..........WELL..........I can take the high density foam out of the duct that I installed...and it would become functional again....the duct just won't extend halfway back under the seat....

besides....the only time anyone is in the back seat of my P-5 is when we drive the thing to church on sunny days...and the kids are back there....and if their feet are cold...they should have kept their socks and shoes on!!!! lol

(stash)

 

[Kwik_Silver_MP5]

Clean install. I just got my P5 last week. I already had the head unit (Kenwood CD, CDR-W, MP3 player w/the 69 different color illuminations), 2 Power Accoustic MOFO 12's (1200watt RMS), and a Planet Audio digital mono 850RMS amp (fixin to get the 1200watt RMS model soon) installed and she thumps. The only drawback is the insane rattle from the trunk(spoiler and liscence plate frame). The spoiler should be quiet after the dyno mat gets installed. The liscence plate frame is going to be different because only the top 2 screws are acctually screwed into the hatchback. So the bottom of the plate bounces when those MOFO's hit (insane!!!!!). What to do? Should I drill holes into the hatchback and screw that *ucker shut or get some dyno mat on that? The only thing about the dyno mat is that it might look tacky, being able to see it sticking out from the sides of the plate frame. Your thought's on this? Holla
(silverp5) (beer) :wtf:

 

[Kwik_Silver_MP5]

Like I said before. Clean. I'll send you pic's of mine as soon as I get them taken. It looks pretty good. I still have to get my Capacitor and my 6x9's installed but when I get it done I'll show you the finished product. You'll be impressed.

 

[Kwik_Silver_MP5]

How powerful is the amp and what is it pushing?

 

[markmurray77]

Some people find it beneficial to put foam padding behind the rear plate to stop the rattle, give that a try

 

[Sir Nuke]

How powerful is the amp and what is it pushing?

by many peoples standards its pretty mild....its the Alpine V-Power MRP-F320 5 channel. it puts out 40 watts RMS per channel X4 and 120 watts RMS to the sub. I have rockford fosgate 5 X 7's in the front doors and rockfrod fosgate 6 1/2's in the rear doors ( both are the FRC32XX series). the sub is a JL Audio 10W0 in their box...its part # CS110R-W0.

its not going to win any contests....BUT...the way I figure it...when its loud enough...and its crystal clear...and the rear and side view mirrors are vibrating enough that you can't see what is behind you....your doin some good! lol

(stash)

 

[Kwik_Silver_MP5]

I guess you're right. But when you're @ a stop light and you crank it up and you can't read the #'s on the liscence plate in front of you (BZZZZ), now that's INSANE!!! Mind you I don't role with it turned up that loud all the time, but when the car next to you is, you can shut it up real quick. Still got more to do to her but you know, it's a comin...