Drops to low idle after boost

Noway I paid $125 for my EGR but I priced a IAC and it was like $625.

Actually, I got screwed by Mazda !! I asked for a IAC valve but they ordered the solenoid valve.... So yeah, IAC = $600

F*****************CK !!
 
IAC's usaully dont go bad. That would be the last thing I would do. I just noticed today that during electrical loads in my car like the power windows and even just hitting the brake when my lights are on will cause my idle to drop slightly. So I am going to have my altenater tested this weekend maybe even setup a grounding kit.
 
Yeah, thats what I heard from reading a few blogs !! The alternator never crossed my mind... Thanks for that bud !! But I'm not familiar with a grounding kit. You mind explaining what it is ?
 
Basicly your engine and transmission need to grounded to the chasis which should be grounded to the negative side of the battery. The altenator should also be grounded. The more connection to ground that you have the better that all electrical will conduct and travel fliudly. To do this you can either buy a grounding kit or you can make your own with some 4 gauge wire and a bunch of concector. There are also stabilizing systems that are sold. I dont know a lot about them but I am sure they are just a compacitence system.
 
Basicly your engine and transmission need to grounded to the chasis which should be grounded to the negative side of the battery. The altenator should also be grounded. The more connection to ground that you have the better that all electrical will conduct and travel fliudly. To do this you can either buy a grounding kit or you can make your own with some 4 gauge wire and a bunch of concector. There are also stabilizing systems that are sold. I dont know a lot about them but I am sure they are just a compacitence system.

Well, I tried everything at this point so I guess I'll try this one as well. Thanks for the explanation man, its much appreciated !!!

I'll let you know if it works out !!!
 
Nah, I'm running a Injen intake. If you go on page 4 of this thread, you can see my setup. I really dont know what give with the car. I cant even gun the car cause it'll just either drop the Idle to 0 then come back and stay around 200-300rpm or, it'll just stall the car....
 
sorry if this was covered already...when the last time you cleaned the intake?
 
I cleaned the in take a couple of weeks ago. The reason i asked about the intake is because a local tuner shop felt that our MAF is a very sensative type and after market setups mess with the intake readings. Most gues just relocate the MAF to before the intake on the cold side or even to the hot side before the IC. I am in the process of looking for a FMIC setup so I can switch everything over. What ever it is my car is running really rich right now and gas prices are not getting any lower.
 
Well fellas, so far so good on my last ajustment. I went and got new battery cable attachments and had a local speed shop fab me up a new intake peace so now my itake has an elbow and a bracket that holds it in the approx. stock location. The bracket is for support so it is no longer just hanging in the engine compartment. I reset the ECU and drove around town for an hour or so and have not seen the idle drop problem yet. I hope that fixed it but I am going to keep an eye on it and I will keep you all updated. I still want to put together a grounding kit for it.
 
Well, I am sad to say that after all my efforts the problem still exist. I am now thinking a little differently about this issue. It may have to do with the turbo set up itself and the compression ratio. If anyone has anymore ideas please chime in.
 
same here man, i put a stock intake back on and i also rechecked all my vaccuum lines again. My vaccuum is still at 28 and i still get horrible gas mileage and the idle drop problem.
just wondering.....what does everyones else vaccuum show with the A/C on? when i cut mine on....it goes to 22-23, isnt that where its supposed to in the first place?
 
Thats pretty normal vac. When the ac comes on the a relay forces the engine idle to go up to compensate for the load of the ac. I actually get about 22inches at idle and about 20inches with the ac engaged. I will figure out what the issue is with the idle problem. It is just a matter of time.
 
Here is a couple of pictures. If you want to see any specifics, let me know.

DSCF0900.jpg

DSCF0901.jpg
 
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Here is an update on my idle drop problem. IT STILL EXIST!!! I had to replace my battery to day because the interstate battery that was in there leaked all over the driveside engine bay. I cant win for losing with this car so far. I went and picked up a optima yellow top and tried to clean up the mess the best that I could. After I left the parts store I took off hard and noticed that when I dumped the clutch on 3rd gear it felt like I had some serious clutch bounce and lose of power. I tried early shifting hard into third and it didnt bounce at all so I thought maybe my clutch is going out. I went out on an empty road by my apartment and dropped the clutch on first gear at about 3000rpms and it spun my bad tires and took off but when I got to third I brought the rpms up to about 2000 and dropped the clutch and it started bouncing again. I dont get it(dunno). I am going to do somemore research and figure this out.
 

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