Drops to low idle after boost

sorry for the newb questions but what is the pcv? where is it located? i looked up the millenia one that they sell and was just wondering....
also the bpv is the bypass valve right?
 
hey take some pictures of your engine bay. I personally think that your intercooler pipes or intake is lose so when your hiting boost theyre expanding and your losing meter'd air.
 
I now think that the problem is with the MAF. The sensor is fine but the crappy cone setup the the previous owner did is way to close to the MAF and I think that turbulent intake air is causing the MAF to freak out. I will get some pictures of my engine bay so you all can tell me what you think.
 
I now think that the problem is with the MAF. The sensor is fine but the crappy cone setup the the previous owner did is way to close to the MAF and I think that turbulent intake air is causing the MAF to freak out. I will get some pictures of my engine bay so you all can tell me what you think.

I got the same thing, cone filter right after the MAF. Post up whenever you look into it maybe thats whats wrong with mine.
 
Does this idling problem have anything to do with my crappy gas mileage i been getting (105 miles on 1/2 tank) sometimes worse. I dont drive WOT everywhere and try to drive without boosting too much but it still sucks. Any kind of help?
sorry for the thread jack....
 
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Idle problems....

Ok, I'm having somewhat of the same problem except that my MSP sometimes will die as Im driving..... That will happen only when I gun the car or when I boost it. Then when I press the clutch to switch gears, the RPM touches the 0 then comes right back up....but sometimes as I mentioned, It'll just die on me while I'm driving...

I'm really getting piss off....please give me some ideas of what it is...
Thanks

Here's my setup...I hope it helps
 

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Ok, I'm having somewhat of the same problem except that my MSP sometimes will die as Im driving..... That will happen only when I gun the car or when I boost it. Then when I press the clutch to switch gears, the RPM touches the 0 then comes right back up....but sometimes as I mentioned, It'll just die on me while I'm driving...

I'm really getting piss off....please give me some ideas of what it is...
Thanks

Here's my setup...I hope it helps

You either have to run a dual bov/bpv setup or relocate the maf. The maf is reading the air coming through the intake and pulling fuel to compensate the air. Then before the air enters the throttle body the bov is releasing it. Now the car has all that fuel pulled by no air to mix with it so it is causing the engine to flood or run too rich which is causing the car to stall.

Here are how to's for both solutions.
dual bpv/bov:
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=40956

relocate maf:

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=105437&highlight=relocate+maf


Hope this helps both of you.
 
Yes, that is a common problem with most turbo cars. My advise on a bov is dont run one. They make really good bpv's now and it is more efficient anyway.
 
Daaaaaamn, today I cleaned my throtlle body, My MAF, cleaned my Idle Air valve......NOTHING works!!! I mean what else can be the problem ?!?! I'm still experiencing the same thing.....I rev the engine at about 5-6 RPM let the gas go and the RPM drops to to 0 then comes back to regular idle....... Im completly confuse guys.......
 
Hey man im in the same boat as you, just did the seafoam and reset the ECU. Changing my oil in the morning. I think i will try to figure something out with the MAF. Whats the differance with the BPV and the BOV?
 
BOV blows to the atomsphere and a by pass valve blows off back into the intake. I think what is going on with our cars is that the MAF is very sensative and controls the fuel dilivery versus the old hot wire MAF's worked were not as sensative and used a MAP sensor on the intake manifold to diliver intake measurements. If the intake is to short then the MAF will get a crappy signal that is not smooth and consistant. I haven't fixed mine yet but hopefully soon I can get some parts.
 
put in a bpv and run the dual set up. u will get the stalling if you do not have the bpv.
 
BOV blows to the atomsphere and a by pass valve blows off back into the intake. I think what is going on with our cars is that the MAF is very sensative and controls the fuel dilivery versus the old hot wire MAF's worked were not as sensative and used a MAP sensor on the intake manifold to diliver intake measurements. If the intake is to short then the MAF will get a crappy signal that is not smooth and consistant. I haven't fixed mine yet but hopefully soon I can get some parts.

Yea i got a cone filter right after the MAF, it sucks the hot air coming right off the fan. I want to do hardpipes and run the dual set up and hopefully it will help
where can i get a good bpv? Can i run it with the Forge BOV?
 
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They make forged bpv. The hot air is not the issue it is the lack of smooth flowing air across the sensor. I dont understand why anyone would want to run a BOV except for the cool sound it makes.
 
You either have to run a dual bov/bpv setup or relocate the maf. The maf is reading the air coming through the intake and pulling fuel to compensate the air. Then before the air enters the throttle body the bov is releasing it. Now the car has all that fuel pulled by no air to mix with it so it is causing the engine to flood or run too rich which is causing the car to stall.

Here are how to's for both solutions.
dual bpv/bov:
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=40956

relocate maf:

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=105437&highlight=relocate+maf


Hope this helps both of you.


About the setup, I just recently installed a BOV on the car. Well I had a Forge BOv and simply replaced it by the one I have now. But my Idling problem started before I even touched anything on the car. Can a boost leak cause my bad idling ? If so, how do I determine it ? This Idling problem makes me want to quit on my MSP...nah thats crazy talk lollll
 
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