Dealer recommended transmission fluid exchange for 2016 CX-5

I wouldn't use non-Mazda ATF. I think it's a false economy buying generic fluid.

Personally, I'd rather spend the extra $15 every 30,000 miles vs risking a $3,000 transmission.
no chance you are risking your entire transmission by using generic fluid.

what do I mean? well, if by some chance, generic fluid somehow got into your AT, would it damage something? No. Does mean you should use it? also, No.
 
at 60k you would be wise to replace the filter at the bottom of the pan as well. most mechanics knowledgeable with AT work would charge you $350 to get the AT serviced properly, not just dicking around with a drain and fill.

If the pan can be dropped, and the filter can be removed and replaced, that means, you replace it.
 
at 60k you would be wise to replace the filter at the bottom of the pan as well. most mechanics knowledgeable with AT work would charge you $350 to get the AT serviced properly, not just dicking around with a drain and fill.

If the pan can be dropped, and the filter can be removed and replaced, that means, you replace it.
No way on Earth would I pay $350 to remove 16 small bolts. But if you don't have a jack or jack stands, I guess I understand.
 
No way on Earth would I pay $350 to remove 16 small bolts. But if you don't have a jack or jack stands, I guess I understand.
You think that's ridiculous. Dealer quoted me $189 to change the rear diff fluid. I asked him why so high? Just got a blank stare. It's like 15 minutes and just a half qt. of oil....
But, I guess a lot depends on how high hourly labor rates are and have gone up.
 
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Flushing ATF is not recommended if the fluid was never changed before and it has high mileage already. Something might go wrong right after the flush due to dislodged debris inside the AT.
At this point, Drain-n-Refile is fine. Filter/Gasket replacement is also recommended.
(and I doubt dealer does flushing ATF.. some service advisor has no clue)

Drain-n-refill is what I have dealer done to all my Mazdas every 30k.
Filter/gasket should be changed at some point (60k is fine, every second time).

If you plan to sell/trade-in your vehicle before 100k miles, ATF is not a problem to worry about. It will be next-owner's problem. However, most knowledgeable used car buyers would appreciate your effort in maintenance. I always sell mine with complete maintenance records (a simple spreadsheet).
 
No way on Earth would I pay $350 to remove 16 small bolts. But if you don't have a jack or jack stands, I guess I understand.

dropping the pan for AT service is not just removing some bolts. the mating surface b/w pan to AT must be perfectly clean. same as the bottom of the pan, and the magnet. bolts must be torqued correctly. new strainer. there is a whole process for adding in the correct amount of AT fluid.

$350 would be a pretty good price to do it all, far better than believing the ignorant and uneducated on a forum.
Flushing ATF is not recommended if the fluid was never changed before and it has high mileage already. Something might go wrong right after the flush due to dislodged debris inside the AT.
At this point, Drain-n-Refile is fine. Filter/Gasket replacement is also recommended.
(and I doubt dealer does flushing ATF.. some service advisor has no clue)

Drain-n-refill is what I have dealer done to all my Mazdas every 30k.
Filter/gasket should be changed at some point (60k is fine, every second time).

If you plan to sell/trade-in your vehicle before 100k miles, ATF is not a problem to worry about. It will be next-owner's problem. However, most knowledgeable used car buyers would appreciate your effort in maintenance. I always sell mine with complete maintenance records (a simple spreadsheet).

you cannot do a flush on skyactiv AT.

your mileage would need to be well over 200k of hard driving before a drain and fill in some circumstances can cause failure.

so, unless your AT is already close to failure, you should be servicing it properly.

Shame on regulations and money profit schemes for failing to point out logical maintenance.

the transmission isnt just your problem, it's your responsibility. and not just when you own the car!

I have more than 300k KM on my 6 speed auto. the valvebody, solenoids are all in near perfect transmission. ive had the full service done on it 3+x now.

the pan should be dropped every 80-100k, cleaned inside along with the magnet, filter ("strainer") changed. unless the bottom of your pan is clean, you dont just drain and fill.

it's painfully evident that not all of us can understand simple vehicle maintenance, it is not stated at all in the manual. go figure.
 
dropping the pan for AT service is not just removing some bolts.
It kinda is.
I've been doing ATF on my Mazdas as well as my other cars for years. It's barely any different from a regular oil change.
If an oil change is a 1/10 on the difficulty scale, changing the ATF and filter is a 2/10.
 
Sorry to intervene,
I have couple questions, I have read information here and there. Just wanted to know the what the general consensus is on doing the drain and fill.
Any procedures before or after?
Does the fluid has to be warm up before draining?
Car has to be level or can it be tilted (jack stands in the front)?
3.5 quarts is what normally is drain?

I have done the brakes and oil. Want to start doing the trans fluid in intervals.

Thank you.
 
You check the level while the engine is idle and at temperature, while parked in level ground. And yeah, it's 3.5 quarts, give or take.

To drain, it doesn't have to be level. There's a drain plug that will get 90%+ of the fluid out of the pan. Mind you, that it won't drain the torque converter at all. That's why many people who have neglected their ATF changes will do 3 in a row, to make sure all of the old fluid is completely out of the system.
 
You check the level while the engine is idle and at temperature, while parked in level ground. And yeah, it's 3.5 quarts, give or take.

To drain, it doesn't have to be level. There's a drain plug that will get 90%+ of the fluid out of the pan. Mind you, that it won't drain the torque converter at all. That's why many people who have neglected their ATF changes will do 3 in a row, to make sure all of the old fluid is completely out of the system.
but it is not required to reach temperature before draining, correct??

Thank you. Appreciate it.
 
Sorry to intervene,
I have couple questions, I have read information here and there. Just wanted to know the what the general consensus is on doing the drain and fill.
Any procedures before or after?
Does the fluid has to be warm up before draining?
Car has to be level or can it be tilted (jack stands in the front)?
3.5 quarts is what normally is drain?

I have done the brakes and oil. Want to start doing the trans fluid in intervals.

Thank you.
Spend some time and read following long discussions:

Guide ATF Drain/Fill

2016.5 CX-5 Transmission fluid change questions

Transmission fluid change without filter replacement

The best is to get an OBDII scanner to get proper ATF temperature when you check ATF level with engine idling:

Just an FYI that, if you have a Windows laptop, you can get the Forscan live data tool up and running on it for as little as $20. Forscan currently offers a free download of their software for Windows, and you can buy an inexpensive OBD adapter to read TFT (and a whole lot more as well). The Forscan doc states that they no longer support the lower-priced adapters, however they still work just fine for the simple stuff. This is a very easy and inexpensive way to get TFT the way the manual says to do it. But as always, your vehicle your choice.

Mazda specific OBD2 reader recommendations?

Finally, most members have found they need 3.75 quarts of Mazda ATF FZ for a simply drain-and-fill if you drained the ATF completely and check the ATF level at proper 122°F temperature with engine idling.

Here’s a schematic by @FerrariF1 showing how the ATF temp affecting the ATF level measurement:

9904FAF5-C3DA-439B-9275-F91A599F7916.gif
 
but it is not required to reach temperature before draining, correct??

Thank you. Appreciate it.
Draining the ATF when it’s warm will speed up the process. The ATF temp is important only when you check the ATF level as stated in my previous post above.
 
I had my mechanic change the transmission fluid (drain & fill) on my '16 CX-5 sport at around 81k. Changed the filter also. Used the Mazda fluid.
 
Ok so as a new Mazda owner is the Mazda transmission easily harmed by not changing the tranny fluid? The reason I ask is I have 3 high mileage cars in my driveway that have never had fluid changed and still operate fine.
2004 Corolla 220,000 miles
2006 Impreza 180,000 miles
2010 Corolla 237,000 miles
Also past vehicles
Chevy S-10 290,000 miles no trans fluid change
Saturn Don't recall miles but high 2's I'm sure but 2 engines no trans issues.
So why should I be worried?
 
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