Cylinder 2 defective

isbre

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2003.5 Mazdaspeed Proteg
I imported my 2003.5 MSP back home to Norway after my semester in USA, a fun car to drive on these roads but maybe a mistake moneywise.

The car broke down yesterday, like 2KMs (just over a mile) from a Mazda dealer, but that doesn't help much since even as the car is covered under the factory warranty and a total care extended protection plan there is absolutely no help to get from the warranty as the car is not in North-America any more.

The dealer says cylinder 2 is defective, either something found its way into my engine or a valve loosened up and hit the piston. From loosing power to check engine light flashing happened within 10 seconds. Before it was absolutely no unfamiliar noises or any signs of trouble at all.
Anyone else experienced this?
and can anyone tell me how this can happen and how to prevent it in the future.

For those who like to read, here is the story of what happened:
I was accelerating into E39 (equivalent to your highways) at first rather fast up to 30miles and then slower up to about 40-45miles. I noticed that I had to press the gas a little bit further than normal to keep a slow acceleration up a very short hill, and the my boost gauge showed me slightly less boost than expected, but I didn't think much of it. About 5 seconds after the check engine light blinked three times before going into solid. I pulled over first chance I had just some seconds later and the car died when I depressed the clutch. When I opened the hood I saw smoke coming from the turbo itself and a little oil lying around the top of the turbo.
The engine oil and coolant level is both OK and the engine temperature gauge was at normal temperature when it happened. I started the car and drow very slowly about 1/4 of a mile to the nearest parking lot. The car started OK but the engine was running everything but smoothly, and when I am closing in on 2000RPMs I can hear a ticking sound which I think is the turbo trying to spool up. The check engine light starts with a solid light and then starts blinking after a while.

My car is a 2003.5 MSP, 42 800miles with mazdaspeed lighweight flywheel, extigy clutch, NGK iridium lower temperature spark plugs, a boost gauge and a MPI tuner installed (don't think it does much though.) otherwise stock. I am the second owner of the car so I can't know for sure, but I think this car has never seen more than stock boost. It had an injen intake, but is now running with stock air intake the last approx 9 000 miles.
The engine oil is about 200 miles old.
 
A little update

I had a friend come over and started dismanteling the engine today, and his verdict is in. The engine block survived, the head and valves seamed OK, but piston number 2 is kind of cone-shaped and needs to be replaced with the rod.

Still the question remains, what caused this and how can I prevent it from happening again?
anyone got some suggestions?
 
I'm using 98 octane fuel RON measured. It adds up to 93,1 AKI. During my one semester of study in USA I used 91-93 on my roadtrips, and 94 in Rapid City where I studied.

Here is a picture, please tell me if you want me to clean all the oil and take another
 

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Not much response on the first picture, so I'm uploading two more. Here is piston 1 (working) and piston 2 (defective) and a picture from the side showing how bad condition the pistonrings was in. Still hoping someone might tell me what might have caused this.
 

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I see the edge is melted. Looks like she got lean. Is the rod bent? Where did rest of the skirt end up?
 
OK, lean of fuel or lean of oil? Can this be the wrong tuning of the MPI or something in the engine block?
The rod is still perfect, but what do you mean by the rest of the skirt?
 
Lean of fuel maybe not enough timing retard? Looks like the whole side of the piston is missing. Were you able to retrieve that. Any damage to the block?
 
I don't know much about tuning unfortunately, the guy I bought the car from helped me tune the MPI. - about 1400 miles ago.

It looks more like something is broken off than just melted, but that is the thing, I didn't see any parts there. It was not in the oil pan. But when the guy helping me dissasemble the engine took the pistons off I wasn't there to look for it.
The block seems perfeectly OK, we tested by inserting one of the working pistons and look for imperfections, found nothing.
 
Can I weld my LSD

I have read a lot of broken LSD and that you can avoid the problem by welding your LSD. I have some questions about the LSD.

I now have the engine away from the car trying to find the parts I need to fix my engine. The transmission is easy to access. Can I take out my LSD and have someone weld it for me, or can you only weld an unused LSD?
If it is possible to weld my LSD; is it hard to take it out and put it back into my transmission and do I need to replace anything when taking it out?
 
OK, I've just been slow at finding info on which pistons I might get
Still trying to figure out if it was just a poor quality piston, knocking or something else that caused my engine to break down. Anyone got a picture of how a piston that is a victim of knock looks like for me to compare?

It seems that I have to wait 3-4 weeks for Arias or JE pistons, I haven't found CP in stock anywhere but ********** said that they are expecting them in soon. I can get Wiseco pistons directly off the shelf, but don't know anything about them. Anyone know if the wiseco pistons are any good?

And what is better to use for gaskets; mazdaspeed OEM gasket set or Cometic?

thanks
 

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