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- Denver, CO
The shipping was too expensive from that shop in Japan, so mainly Quirk Parts and Mazdaswag. Will say Mazdaswag did a horrible job packaging the struts.
Quirk Parts had both lower control arms for $185 each.
2013~2016: CX-5 Suspension noises and steering feels mushy
- Thread starter ColoradoDriver
- Start date
Quirk Parts had both lower control arms for $185 each.
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- Denver, CO
Hi all, finally got some time yesterday to do the work of replacing both lower control arms and sway bar links. Did not have time to do the struts.
Thoughts: I never want to do this job again and will gladly pay someone to do it in the future if I ever need it again. I would supply the parts and just pay the labor.
The bolt by the transmission pan for the driver's side LCA really sucks trying to get off. Wobble bit required, but even so, made it a bit hard to get the leverage needed to break the bolt seal. Impact wasn't doing it, so took ye ol' breaker bar to it first and eventually got it to break.
The bolt/nut combo holding in the ball joint was also very rusted and stuck together. The nut at least came off easily, but the bolt needed some hits with the impact and then punching it through and out with a punch and a hammer.
Speaking of the ball joint...very difficult to remove. Took some patience hitting the control arm with a hammer to eventually get it out. May have to look into a tool for that in the future, but again, I don't really want to do this job again.
Aside from that, putting in the new LCA's was pretty straight forward. Oddly enough the driver's side LCA came with grease pre-applied to the ball joint, while the passenger side one did not. Applied a little grease to that one before installing.
The sway bar links were relatively easy, just a little awkward trying to hold the one part with a 14mm wrench and using a hex socket in the middle.
The good news though is no more clunking driving around now, and the loose feeling of the suspension is gone. Will look into what sort of maintenance I should be doing to keep the bushings in good working order going forward. The old ones were sure torn to hell, but also the originals since I bought the car new in 2013.
With those fixed, I could now feel the struts isolated from any other suspension problems. A little bouncy, so I still want to get them replaced. Since I have the parts but don't know when I'd get another opportunity to do that job, I think I'll look at just paying the labor for someone to replace those, and then do an alignment. Will see.
Moral of the story though: Lower control arms are no joke, and expect it to be an all day job if DIYing. Oh and be sure to bring the penetrating oil. Not so much WD-40, but anything for rust and specifically for getting bolts off.
Thoughts: I never want to do this job again and will gladly pay someone to do it in the future if I ever need it again. I would supply the parts and just pay the labor.
The bolt by the transmission pan for the driver's side LCA really sucks trying to get off. Wobble bit required, but even so, made it a bit hard to get the leverage needed to break the bolt seal. Impact wasn't doing it, so took ye ol' breaker bar to it first and eventually got it to break.
The bolt/nut combo holding in the ball joint was also very rusted and stuck together. The nut at least came off easily, but the bolt needed some hits with the impact and then punching it through and out with a punch and a hammer.
Speaking of the ball joint...very difficult to remove. Took some patience hitting the control arm with a hammer to eventually get it out. May have to look into a tool for that in the future, but again, I don't really want to do this job again.
Aside from that, putting in the new LCA's was pretty straight forward. Oddly enough the driver's side LCA came with grease pre-applied to the ball joint, while the passenger side one did not. Applied a little grease to that one before installing.
The sway bar links were relatively easy, just a little awkward trying to hold the one part with a 14mm wrench and using a hex socket in the middle.
The good news though is no more clunking driving around now, and the loose feeling of the suspension is gone. Will look into what sort of maintenance I should be doing to keep the bushings in good working order going forward. The old ones were sure torn to hell, but also the originals since I bought the car new in 2013.
With those fixed, I could now feel the struts isolated from any other suspension problems. A little bouncy, so I still want to get them replaced. Since I have the parts but don't know when I'd get another opportunity to do that job, I think I'll look at just paying the labor for someone to replace those, and then do an alignment. Will see.
Moral of the story though: Lower control arms are no joke, and expect it to be an all day job if DIYing. Oh and be sure to bring the penetrating oil. Not so much WD-40, but anything for rust and specifically for getting bolts off.
I don't blame you. Just had the front LCAs and tie-rod ends done at a local shop for my CX-5. (Basic Beck/Arnley units.) Took nearly 5hrs, and there was a lot of hammering (for the ball joints) and wedging (to get those LCA bolts aligned for insertion). Chatted with the mechanic as the job progressed.
Only ~$250 in parts, but the labor charge was money well spent to have them do the install work.
LCA -- LCA -- Tie Rod End --
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- Denver, CO
Yeah took me about 4 1/2 hours to do the driver's side one, and then about 2 1/2 hours for the passenger side one. I had a lot more help for the passenger side one.
The mechanic had a lift, BFH and all the right tools, as well as a big gorilla to help her wrestle the LCAs into position. A touch under 5hrs for the LCAs, and about 20mins for the pair of tie rod ends, plus alignment. Money well spent, to have them do what would probably put me in traction. Can't imagine attempting to muscle through this stuff at home, even with helpers.
1-800-Accountant
1-800-Attorney
1-800-GPdoc
1-800-AutoMechanic
All good numbers to have, in my book.
Had a Miata some years back. Used to do all my own maintenance, short of the exhaust system (welding). Suspension, brakes, minor electrical, timing belt / water pump / tensioner, belts, hoses, air intake, plugs/wires, minor other engine bay components. Easy to keep running in top shape, on that car, back then. Bigger, heavier cars, more stuffed into the engine bay, more-complicated suspension ... sure isn't a first-gen Miata, I'll say that.
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@ColoradoDriver I'm in a similar position as you regarding suspension. My struts are starting to feel worn - I'll look into getting them done once I gather some money for that. Otherwise, just a crack in the passenger side LCA bushing, but everything else is good.
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- 2014 & 2019 CX-5 Touring(s)
That's interesting. As reported on another thread, I agree it's hell to get the pinch bolts and ball post out, but I had no problem getting the new LCA's on at all.
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- Denver, CO
Putting the new LCAs on wasn't really a problem, but the bushings part (that has the two bolts, 1 long, 1 short) was definitely difficult to get to align right without it moving off center. Not that difficult, but took a bit of finagling for me.
Yes, that statement caught my attention also. My mechanic who installed them for me said the job went easier than expected. Even though I didn't do the job, I can't see much of a problem getting things lined up. I will mention that a big reason I purchased OEM Mazda LCA's was I wanted a quality part that fit, not some aftermarket that complicates the job and ties up the lift and offers no monetary savings in the end. Mechanics appreciate parts that fit. I've read about some aftermarket LCA's not fitting, or if installed, change the camber when the ball joint is installed in the knuckle.
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- Denver, CO
Hey all, so been driving a bit and gotta say, feels nice having a firmed up suspension again. That said, I definitely feel a difference in the front and rear when say going over a speed bump. They aren't leaking, but I think at some point in the near future, I'll go ahead and replace the rear shocks too.
Also, I never felt like my CX-5 was out of alignment too badly, but after the most recent alignment, it's definitely tracking nice and straight. I've never gotten an alignment since new until I had it done this month and everything was still green except for a couple spots. I forgot to get the printed our report, so will have to double-check the video they sent me that had a picture of it.
Sorry, best pic I could get from video. Rear toe was off, but now corrected. Oddly enough, front alignment was pretty good after replacing all those parts lol.
Also, I never felt like my CX-5 was out of alignment too badly, but after the most recent alignment, it's definitely tracking nice and straight. I've never gotten an alignment since new until I had it done this month and everything was still green except for a couple spots. I forgot to get the printed our report, so will have to double-check the video they sent me that had a picture of it.
Sorry, best pic I could get from video. Rear toe was off, but now corrected. Oddly enough, front alignment was pretty good after replacing all those parts lol.
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200955
If this is not an AWD vehicle there is no reason why you can't run the front drive system with the tires raised off the ground (floor). Support the car with jack stands beneath the front doors on either side. Chock the rear wheels, parking brake on. You can remove the front wheels if you wish. In this configuration you can actually turn the steering with the car running and in drive. Check for pads dragging, noisy front bearings, splash shields rubbing and CV joint noise. If it is AWD you'll have to put the entire car on jack stands. For sway bar noises, remove the links and see if the bar drops down - if not the bushings are still tight around the bar at the hoop clamps and just fine. If you can shine a flash through the bushings at the sway bar their junk. There should be absolutely no play in the steering wheel when rocked gently from side to side. If there is you have a loose coupling bolt or a worn coupling. If it's electric steering check to see if there's play at the coupling under the dash. You can only check the upper strut bearings with the car on the ground or by physically removing them but usually they "click" when turning because the bearings have gone dry of grease or internally rusty. I believe you have only one thing causing your issue, finding it may take time, fixing it will take a bit of cash if you have a shop do it as they might play on your "unkown cause" and up-sell you on things you don't even need. Best of luck!
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- Denver, CO
AWD for mine.
Already fixed. Replaced lower control arms in the front due to torn bushings. Went ahead and and replaced the end links as well. While I was at it, replaced the struts too. Problem solved.
Did the strut replacement make a big difference with handling and steering feel?
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200955
I didn't notice "and had an alignment done". This is required after this amount of work to the front suspension so actually your problem isn't solved.
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- Denver, CO
Of course I had an alignment done afterwards. It's actually noted in this thread already if you had bothered to read 4 posts above.
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- Denver, CO
More in the stability when going over bumps was the biggest thing I noticed - for the struts.
As for the lower control arm bushings and end links - much more stability when turning and such and eliminated noise. With the old arms that had torn bushings and end links with damaged bushings, the turning felt very loose and not very stable, and I would get periodic metal on metal noise.
