CX-5 Premium Plus Engine leaking oil

[KukiMazda20]

Chances are that you're not going to be stuck in the middle of a Wyoming desert, or anywhere else, because of a slow weeping leak of oil anywhere on your engine.

I could be wrong though; I was once before...

I was once in the desert, and once in the middle of the intersection. Not fun at all.

They are not a bot.

I don't care honestly, but it seems weird that we talk about leakage and he states how amazing his car is. Honestly, it is very weird. They use GPT chat for chat boots nowadays - also for public forums to switch the gear a little bit.

 

[Antoine]

@KukiMazda20

First of all...Please use the "+ Quote" option instead of replying to each post separately (they have since been merged). Secondly...If your intention here is to simply complain about your Mazda experience, please save that for Mazda and their Dealers. We're an independent community dedicated to supporting the Mazda ownership experience...We're not a dumping ground for Mazda-related grievances and or AI conspiracy theories.

Thank you, now please stay on topic and keep it contructive.

 

[AL Cx5]

Hm, wonder how nicely you describe these new Maxda CX5... Lol. Some bots maybe???? I'm not sure how your posts have any relation to the issue and the theme I posted????? Few drops of positive marketing maybe?

I'm not a bot.

I'm suggesting not throwing the baby out with the bathwater.

So far, I've not found the perfect car. They ALL have imperfections. The manufacturer builds this cars to meet a price point. Years ago Mercedes were extremely expensive but built to last a life time. The market forgot the long term value. To survive Benz had to cut costs and quality.

Our CX 5 is in one of the most competitive market segments. Would you have paid $5,000 more for your Mazda knowing it would not seep oil and other upgrades? I wouldn't.

Is seeping oil acceptable? Not in my book but not a deal killer. I did a search and found many other brands engines are seeping oil too. My guess 98% of the owners never look under the hood or under the car. The engine seeps oil and never causes a problem.

I continue to find extra touches on our CX 5 that know one sees but makes it a better car. This weekend I lowed the car using a coilover kit. The rear shock has a small boot that protects the top of the shock from dirt. I've never seen that before. The front shock mounts and bolts are massive. Torque spec on the bolts is 170 ft #s.

The bump stops are at least 10s longer than on my 2500 ram or Honda Accord. The rear shock mounting bracket is cast aluminum and firmly holds the shock to the body in stead of a through bolt. I could go on.

If an oil seep is a deal killer, sell it and move on...

 

[Odrapnew]

I was once in the desert, and once in the middle of the intersection. Not fun at all.

Are you saying your CX5 stopped working 2x due to the oil weep/seep?

 

[edmaz]

... The engine seeps oil and never causes a problem. ...

These timing cover seeps/weeps/leaks are caused by insufficient RTV, and RTV will shrink a bit over time. So 5 years from now the seep turns into a dripping leak, and the vehicle is no longer under warranty. Still not a problem at that point?

 

[AL Cx5]

These timing cover seeps/weeps/leaks are caused by insufficient RTV, and RTV will shrink a bit over time. So 5 years from now the seep turns into a dripping leak, and the vehicle is no longer under warranty. Still not a problem at that point?

"Does RTV shrink?


RTV silicone comes in a range of thicknesses (viscosities), so it can be applied to surfaces by spraying, brushing or pouring. It doesn't shrink as it dries. The final product is highly chemical and temperature resistant. RTV silicone remains flexible after it cures."


Gosh, at the five year mark I expect to do some maintenance. I'll be looking for this and R&R it.

As mentioned in Post #43, this a very competitive SUV segment. All the manufactures have to sell their CX-5 type SUVs priced within a few hundred dollars of each other with similar features. Gone are the days when the buyer will pay a premium for a vehicle that will last a life time.

When we were shopping we didn't consider maintenance beyond fluids and filters. Yet every car and truck I've owned required something else over the life of the vehicle. Even the old Benz that lasted a life time required maintenance beyond changing the oil and filters.

Your complaint sent me looking at how difficult a job it is to R&R a valve cover gasket. It looks like it will take me about an hour and $20 for parts. After 5 years of ownership a $20 part and one hour labor is acceptable.

In the time I've spent reading and responding to this post, I could have changed out the valve cover gasket for $20.

 

[KukiMazda20]

I'm not a bot.

I'm suggesting not throwing the baby out with the bathwater.

So far, I've not found the perfect car. They ALL have imperfections. The manufacturer builds this cars to meet a price point. Years ago Mercedes were extremely expensive but built to last a life time. The market forgot the long term value. To survive Benz had to cut costs and quality.

Our CX 5 is in one of the most competitive market segments. Would you have paid $5,000 more for your Mazda knowing it would not seep oil and other upgrades? I wouldn't.

Is seeping oil acceptable? Not in my book but not a deal killer. I did a search and found many other brands engines are seeping oil too. My guess 98% of the owners never look under the hood or under the car. The engine seeps oil and never causes a problem.

I continue to find extra touches on our CX 5 that know one sees but makes it a better car. This weekend I lowed the car using a coilover kit. The rear shock has a small boot that protects the top of the shock from dirt. I've never seen that before. The front shock mounts and bolts are massive. Torque spec on the bolts is 170 ft #s.

The bump stops are at least 10s longer than on my 2500 ram or Honda Accord. The rear shock mounting bracket is cast aluminum and firmly holds the shock to the body in stead of a through bolt. I could go on.

If an oil seep is a deal killer, sell it and move on...

It is very Interesting how you don't hold the manufacturer responsible for the defects of the products they sell for not so little money and the way you shift the responsibility and burden to the customer. I would like to know your role in this forum.

 

[AL Cx5]

It is very Interesting how you don't hold the manufacturer responsible for the defects of the products they sell for not so little money and the way you shift the responsibility and burden to the customer. I would like to know your role in this forum.

You sound like a troll.

If you were a friend of mine who keep complaining that after 5 years, a $20 part and 60 min to install is required. I would give you $20 to shut you up.

48 posts over a $20 part. I have wasted my precious time and moving on.

Troll on....

 

[sm1ke]

It is very Interesting how you don't hold the manufacturer responsible for the defects of the products they sell for not so little money and the way you shift the responsibility and burden to the customer. I would like to know your role in this forum.

They have the same role you do, as an owner of a Mazda and a forum participant.

 

[sm1ke]

Guys and gals, if a post or user seems suspicious to you, don't hesitate to use the Report function. The moderators and admins will investigate as soon as they can. I'd advise against interactions with the supposed trolls/bots in the meantime. Mistakenly calling someone out for being a troll or a bot can lead to fruitless interactions that don't contribute to the conversation (see above).

 

[edmaz]

... It doesn't shrink as it dries. The final product is highly chemical and temperature resistant. RTV silicone remains flexible after it cures."

This isn't about what happens as it dries. Every type of non-metal gasket degrades to some extent as it ages. And oil coming through to the other side of the cover means the RTV did not adhere completely to both surfaces. It's not going to ever fix itself, and I'd be willing to make a hefty bet that it will be worse in 5 years.

....
Your complaint sent me looking at how difficult a job it is to R&R a valve cover gasket. It looks like it will take me about an hour and $20 for parts. After 5 years of ownership a $20 part and one hour labor is acceptable.
....

You have an incredibly narrow viewpoint. I could easily make that repair as well, but how about the OP of this thread? And also what about the other 99% of owners, who either can't or don't want to DIY something like this. And even more importantly, why should anyone who buys a new vehicle have to even consider making a repair of something that's clearly a manufacturing defect? They provide a warranty, so the OP should be able to use it to get any automaker mistakes like this one fixed at N/C.

 

[AL Cx5]

This isn't about what happens as it dries. Every type of non-metal gasket degrades to some extent as it ages. And oil coming through to the other side of the cover means the RTV did not adhere completely to both surfaces. It's not going to ever fix itself, and I'd be willing to make a hefty bet that it will be worse in 5 years.


You have an incredibly narrow viewpoint. I could easily make that repair as well, but how about the OP of this thread? And also what about the other 99% of owners, who either can't or don't want to DIY something like this. And even more importantly, why should anyone who buys a new vehicle have to even consider making a repair of something that's clearly a manufacturing defect? They provide a warranty, so the OP should be able to use it to get any automaker mistakes like this one fixed at N/C.

I agree if it leaks during warranty Mazda fixes it. On engines I've rebuilt, I find RTV at the corners in several places. The timing cover/ engine block/oil pan is an example. It's common engine assembly practice across the auto industry to use RTV.

To assume that any car will go 5 years and not need some maintenance beyond what Mazda recommends is living in a fantasy. Fantasy, car is the least initial or same cost as other cars and never needs any maintenance beyond what is in the owner manual.

My point, a $20 part is darn cheap. An hour of labor if one is not inclined to follow instructions on YouTube is not out of line. Maybe cost $150 out the door. That is $30 per year or 3 cents a day. One could have this performed at an oil change or when replacing the spark plugs since it not effecting operation.

Estimated Cost to Replace Mazda 2.5l Valve Cover Gasket

I challenge folks to google Toyota and Honda engine seeps oil and see all the different posts. This is not an isolated Mazda issue. Is acceptable? Each owner has to come to their own conclusion.

My 09 Accord seeped oil around the valve cover gasket. I choose to ignore it until the 100K mark when I was adjusting the valves. Oil was not dripping on the ground.

It didn't even occur to me to post on a Honda forum that this is a massive engine defect and Honda should have a recall. I fixed it and went on.

I followed a YouTube video how to adjust the valve lash and replace the valve cover gasket. I scrapped the RTV off the Honda valve cover and engine head, install new gaskets and RTV on the corners. Poof, no oil seep.

For the those who want to save 2 to 3 cents per day maintaining a vehicle or enjoys pushing ones edges here is a link below.

If the OP was just a bit more humble and lived near by, I would put a new valve cover gasket on his Mazda just for practice. The time it takes to take my car to a shop/dealership to install a valve cover gasket warranty or not, I'll replace it and come out a head.

Valve covers have leaked on many cars engine way back with cork gaskets. The valve cover is a different material than the engine block. It expands a different amount than a cast iron or cast aluminum engine head. It's difficult to seal long term.

My Cummins diesel valve cover has not leaked in 265,000 miles. Hats off to Cummins for this design. The Cummins valve cover is a simple rectangle covering an inline 24 valve inline 6. It's massive, like the rest of the engine.

BUT the Cummins water pump is a 40,000 to 60,000 mile device. The belt tensioner and idler need to be replaced at that time as well. Folks grumble about the water pumps not lasting and it's generally accepted this is part of the charm of owning a Cummins that will go 500,00 to 750,000 miles. I'd rather change out a valve cover gasket then a water pump any day....

A $20 valve cover gasket replaced every 5 years is not a 747 crash......

How to replace a valve cover gasket

 

[KukiMazda20]

These forums are an obvious waste of time. Mazda loves you and your money more. Yes, spend $37000 and fix it after 5000 miles by yourself. I am amazed at how logic works with some folks. Reverse logic/communist philosophy... Go for it. Fix your brand-new cars.
We love you Mazda

 

[KukiMazda20]

I agree if it leaks during warranty Mazda fixes it. On engines I've rebuilt, I find RTV at the corners in several places. The timing cover/ engine block/oil pan is an example. It's common engine assembly practice across the auto industry to use RTV.

To assume that any car will go 5 years and not need some maintenance beyond what Mazda recommends is living in a fantasy. Fantasy, car is the least initial or same cost as other cars and never needs any maintenance beyond what is in the owner manual.

My point, a $20 part is darn cheap. An hour of labor if one is not inclined to follow instructions on YouTube is not out of line. Maybe cost $150 out the door. That is $30 per year or 3 cents a day. One could have this performed at an oil change or when replacing the spark plugs since it not effecting operation.

Estimated Cost to Replace Mazda 2.5l Valve Cover Gasket

I challenge folks to google Toyota and Honda engine seeps oil and see all the different posts. This is not an isolated Mazda issue. Is acceptable? Each owner has to come to their own conclusion.

My 09 Accord seeped oil around the valve cover gasket. I choose to ignore it until the 100K mark when I was adjusting the valves. Oil was not dripping on the ground.

It didn't even occur to me to post on a Honda forum that this is a massive engine defect and Honda should have a recall. I fixed it and went on.

I followed a YouTube video how to adjust the valve lash and replace the valve cover gasket. I scrapped the RTV off the Honda valve cover and engine head, install new gaskets and RTV on the corners. Poof, no oil seep.

For the those who want to save 2 to 3 cents per day maintaining a vehicle or enjoys pushing ones edges here is a link below.

If the OP was just a bit more humble and lived near by, I would put a new valve cover gasket on his Mazda just for practice. The time it takes to take my car to a shop/dealership to install a valve cover gasket warranty or not, I'll replace it and come out a head.

Valve covers have leaked on many cars engine way back with cork gaskets. The valve cover is a different material than the engine block. It expands a different amount than a cast iron or cast aluminum engine head. It's difficult to seal long term.

My Cummins diesel valve cover has not leaked in 265,000 miles. Hats off to Cummins for this design. The Cummins valve cover is a simple rectangle covering an inline 24 valve inline 6. It's massive, like the rest of the engine.

BUT the Cummins water pump is a 40,000 to 60,000 mile device. The belt tensioner and idler need to be replaced at that time as well. Folks grumble about the water pumps not lasting and it's generally accepted this is part of the charm of owning a Cummins that will go 500,00 to 750,000 miles. I'd rather change out a valve cover gasket then a water pump any day....

A $20 valve cover gasket replaced every 5 years is not a 747 crash......

How to replace a valve cover gasket

Yes go for it. Love you Mazda and your money. Let's fix that valve cover gasket. LOL I wonder how it works with new jets

 

[Antoine]

These forums are an obvious waste of time. Mazda loves you and your money more. Yes, spend $37000 and fix it after 5000 miles by yourself. I am amazed at how logic works with some folks. Reverse logic/communist philosophy... Go for it. Fix your brand-new cars.
We love you Mazda

Great, let me then save you a lot of time by permanently banning your account.

Remember...Mazdas247 has a zero tolerance policy towards trolling, meaning users who engage in such activity can be immediately and permanently banned without warning.

Now back to the topic and not wasting our time, thank you.

 

[Trouble]

So what was the verdict...I have the same identical thing happening in my 2020 CX-5 I am told valve pan gasket

 

[yrwei52]

⋯ The rear shock mounting bracket is cast aluminum and firmly holds the shock to the body in stead of a through bolt. I could go on.

This aluminum rear shock top mount is prone to crack. and if you have a Gen-1 CX-5 you can’t get it separately other than getting it with the whole OEM rear shock which is now almost 3X more expensive than pre-pendamic. You can’t get this shock top mount from aftermarket rear shocks as they don’t include the mount.

2014 Rear Shock Mount

2016 rear shock mount?

2016 CX-5 Rear Shock Mount

2016 CX-5 GT Broken rear upper strut mount

And:
“Saved about $40 per shock vs OEM reusing the old mounts, but YMMV. If I ever replace these again, I’ll get OEM for the included mounts.”

Yeah, the KYB mount was a no-go. Too small!

good news though is that the original mounts look fine. The rubber bushing looks to be in good condition. No cracks or damage. Florida car most of its life so conditions have been gentle.

rear shocks are replaced. You’ll need a 12mm box wrench and a pair of vice grips to remove the mount. Grab the stem with the vice grips and unscrew the 12mm nut. It had some blue lock tite, so I applied some when installing the mount to the new shock. Saved about $40 per shock vs OEM reusing the old mounts, but YMMV. If I ever replace these again, I’ll get OEM for the included mounts.

rear right shock was definitely bad lol. Some seepage down the side. Pic included to show it doesn’t push as far as the old drivers side.

On to the struts!

Also here:

Hi, I'm new here. I am a certified auto technician in Ontario Canada. I'm retired now but still get into repairing autos.
My GF 2015 CX 5 rear shock mount broke. I didn't want to rewplace the entire shock ($390.) Dealer CDN $
I did a lot of on line research & phone calls. Also looked for a used part.
Here is what I did , I used a top shock mount part # DA6A-28-380 from Mazda.
Used on a CX-3 2017.
Was $17 usd plus shipping.
I removed the old broken mount from the body, cut the damper cover at the bottom of the mount, removed the mount from the shock & installed the cx 3 mount to the shock & then to the body. I removed the cut portion of the damper cover from the inside of the old mount & before I installed the new mount I squeezed the upper damper cover into the new mount (not knowing this was only pressed in) I could have removed the cover from the mount without cutting it, but I think it would be difficult to install into the new mount. I used a vise. I applied some Lepage 2 in 1 sealant to hold the shock damper cover in place.

 

[yrwei52]

So what was the verdict...I have the same identical thing happening in my 2020 CX-5 I am told valve pan gasket

IMO, you should pursue getting the oil weeping or leaking fixed by the Mazda dealer if you still have the warranty. But honestly the lack of good skilled tech to fix those problems, especially the front timing chain cover, by the dealership can be problematic, and the seepage could re-occur after the repair.

 

[AL Cx5]

This aluminum rear shock top mount is prone to crack. and if you have a Gen-1 CX-5 you can’t get it separately other than getting it with the whole OEM rear shock which is now almost 3X more expensive than pre-pendamic. You can’t get this shock top mount from aftermarket rear shocks as they don’t include the mount.

2014 Rear Shock Mount

2016 rear shock mount?

2016 CX-5 Rear Shock Mount

2016 CX-5 GT Broken rear upper strut mount

View attachment 328087

And:
“Saved about $40 per shock vs OEM reusing the old mounts, but YMMV. If I ever replace these again, I’ll get OEM for the included mounts.”



Also here:

Wow, that is corroded! What does the rest of the undercarriage look like?

When I lower the car, I'm going to rattle can the rear shock mounts while it's apart. If I drive on chemically treated roads, I'll spray upper shock area with water when I return.

I'm still in the honeymoon phase with out CX 5. I'm taking notes.

 

[Trouble]

IMO, you should pursue getting the oil weeping or leaking fixed by the Mazda dealer if you still have the warranty. But honestly the lack of good skilled tech to fix those problems, especially the front timing chain cover, by the dealership can be problematic, and the seepage could re-occur after the repair.

Yes still under warranty they are saying it's just the valve pan gasket that is causing the timing chain cover to be with oil..the pics that are in the first of the thread is exactly the same as mine..I hope it is just the pan gasket