CX-5 Jack points, Pinchweld Heights, Bottlejacks and Pucks

[N7turbo]

Because it's a solid point and I may not want to lift both front tires off the ground using center point. My 1-1/2 ton jack doesn't like it as much when I make the poor thing lift the whole front end either. I guess it comes down to whatever works best for us. To each his own.

Thanks. Just trying to understand why and whether it's safe to do. I found videos doing that but with a lot of negative comments.

 

[Koko_Bandit]

The hockey puck approach still scares me. I went with the aluminum pinch weld adapter with magnets the stick to the car. You just have to remember to remove it when you finish the last lift.

However, that brings up another question. The recommended tire rotation scheme has us swapping from right front to left rear. I end up using the spare as a temporary holder when I do it myself. Does anyone have a good solution other than a shop lift?

Two jacks.

 

[Jmaz]

Thanks. Just trying to understand why and whether it's safe to do. I found videos doing that but with a lot of negative comments.

Regarding safety, I don't find it unsafe as I've been doing it this way for over 20 years with my previous cars as well as current CX-5. I don't know if there is a more solid area of the unibody than where the lower control arm bolts up and is also close to front subframe mounting area. My previous car I used a subframe bushing location for the jack saddle. Old rear wheel drive domestic cars would get the jack under the lower control arm. Anyway, reason being the lack of good jacking points and still wanting to put the jackstand at the designated reinforced locations for jacking at the pinch seam. There's not room for a jack and a jackstand at that location. And I don't see much in the way of suitable support points under car. Don't want it to slide off jackstand (it's happened) and maybe puncture/dent the underside of the unibody.
If there were negative comments about doing it this way I'm curious as to what they refer to. Maybe I have been doing it wrong. Who knows.

 

[N7turbo]

Would be great if I could modify these.

 

[ruthrj]

I use this style of pinch weld adapter on 4 jack stands. I lift the car using the designated front and rear jack points from the owners manual, and place the jack stands at the pinch weld locations. It’s a little bit of a hassle but it works. I don’t lift or lower the car all in one go: I alternate front and rear with three shortened lifts (or drops if lowering the vehicle). This helps prevent the jack stands from tipping over while supporting the car.

I used to use the spare tire years ago before I got a second pair of jack stands. I prefer having the whole car up now.

 

[Conrad 16.5]

The hockey puck approach still scares me. I went with the aluminum pinch weld adapter with magnets the stick to the car. You just have to remember to remove it when you finish the last lift.

However, that brings up another question. The recommended tire rotation scheme has us swapping from right front to left rear. I end up using the spare as a temporary holder when I do it myself. Does anyone have a good solution other than a shop lift?

I do the same. It's a good time to check out the spare and the area in the car where it lives.

While I have the wheels off of the car, one at a time, I take the opportunity to wash and wax the wheels, inboard and outboard.

I have lots of jackstands, but I never use them while doing this job, just my floor jack and the spare tire.

 

[N7turbo]

I use this style of pinch weld adapter on 4 jack stands. I lift the car using the designated front and rear jack points from the owners manual, and place the jack stands at the pinch weld locations. It’s a little bit of a hassle but it works. I don’t lift or lower the car all in one go: I alternate front and rear with three shortened lifts (or drops if lowering the vehicle). This helps prevent the jack stands from tipping over while supporting the car.

I used to use the spare tire years ago before I got a second pair of jack stands. I prefer having the whole car up now.
View attachment 328825

I saw those, but they won't work with my jack stands which have round platforms. I linked to some round candidates earlier. It's either that, cut the ones it came with, or go DIY with hockey pucks.

 

[N7turbo]

Got a pair of these in today (at right) to test. The rubber is very hard so that seems good. The groove however is not deep enough, and they aren't as large so they don't sit securely on my stands.

I chose them because they're half the price of those from FM, but they'll still need a little modification to deepen the groove.

Then I'm left with the fact that they don't secure to the stand but instead sit on the outer rim. I'm afraid they might slip off which could be a deal-breaker. Unless super glue would hold them on.

 

[N7turbo]

All,

I have decided to initiate a return for the rubber jack adapters and instead try these.

They look great and I shouldn't have to spend time modifying anything. They will also be more solid. Will update soon!

 

[propflux01]

The hockey puck approach still scares me. I went with the aluminum pinch weld adapter with magnets the stick to the car. You just have to remember to remove it when you finish the last lift.

However, that brings up another question. The recommended tire rotation scheme has us swapping from right front to left rear. I end up using the spare as a temporary holder when I do it myself. Does anyone have a good solution other than a shop lift?

I just use four jack stands. Lift the car on one side with a floor jack (the jack should be able to lift the car enough to install both stand front and rear). Install stands. Go to the other side, jack up, and install stands. Now, all 4 wheels are off the ground. I can check the underbody, change the oil, and rotate all four tires at once. I've done this on many different cars for years with no issues.

 

[RedBaron]

I have decided to initiate a return for the rubber jack adapters and instead try these.

My worry about metal 'pads' like these is that they can crack and/or scratch the underbody paint and allow rust in. At least gets some rubber sheet material and pad between the car and the pads.

 

[N7turbo]

My worry about metal 'pads' like these is that they can crack and/or scratch the underbody paint and allow rust in. At least gets some rubber sheet material and pad between the car and the pads.

Here's a picture of the driver side rear jack point. Here, you are actually jacking against some underbody "carpet" and plastic. But at any time that isn't the case, point taken and consider putting something in between.

 

[N7turbo]

These are very nicely made for how cheap they are!

Only one zonk from me though: the magnets cause them to rotate as they get close to the car, so you need to get your hands on them to align them on the jack or stand. I could live without the magnets as the CX-5 is covered in carpet and plastic and they don't really stay up there anyway.

 

[N7turbo]

The CX-5 is now too low to access the front jack point straight away, so to lift the whole car, I used this method: https://youtu.be/X2XdxPJnpNE?si=3wi7MB2Gxlo4lPdQ

Once I had the car on level 1 of the stands, I was able to access the front jack point to raise the stands higher:

And the rear jacking point to raise the rear stands higher:

 

[Conrad 16.5]

The CX-5 is now too low to access the front jack point straight away, so to lift the whole car, I used this method: https://youtu.be/X2XdxPJnpNE?si=3wi7MB2Gxlo4lPdQ

Once I had the car on level 1 of the stands, I was able to access the front jack point to raise the stands higher:

View attachment 329182

And the rear jacking point to raise the rear stands higher:

View attachment 329183

I watched the above vid.

If the front/rear is too low to get your floor jack underneath, for me, it's SO much easier to drive the car up onto my homemade ramps and then put the floor jack into position and then get the jack stands set-up.

Another thing, look how he places the jack stands under the pinch welds. Metal to metal contact but he worries about scratching the diff, so he uses a rag on the floor jack?

 

[N7turbo]

I watched the above vid.

If the front/rear is too low to get your floor jack underneath, for me, it's SO much easier to drive the car up onto my homemade ramps and then put the floor jack into position and then get the jack stands set-up.

Another thing, look how he places the jack stands under the pinch welds. Metal to metal contact but he worries about scratching the diff, so he uses a rag on the floor jack?

Yeah, I saw that. He needs to use jack pad adapters. At least that is a super lightweight car. Other than that, his methods were solid. Ramps are another option for the CX-5, but it's riskier with a rear-wheel drive or MT car if you're not on really level ground.

 

[Conrad 16.5]

Yeah, I saw that. He needs to use jack pad adapters. At least that is a super lightweight car. Other than that, his methods were solid. Ramps are another option for the CX-5, but it's riskier with a rear-wheel drive or MT car if you're not on really level ground.

I have no problems getting my rear-wheel-drive MT MX-5 up on my ramps.

What risk are you referring to?

 

[N7turbo]

The fact that the front (non-drive) wheels aren't locked. I see you have a lip on your ramps, which is smart.

 

[Conrad 16.5]

The fact that the front (non-drive) wheels aren't locked. I see you have a lip on your ramps, which is smart.

The front wheels aren't locked? I'm not following here.

Once up on the ramps why would that matter? If I'm doing something that doesn't require the wheels to be off the ground and I'm only using the ramps, the parking brake is on. Yes, that's the rear wheels only but the front ain't going anywhere in this case.

If I need the wheels off the ground, I pull onto the ramps, set the parking brake, and then place my floor jack in position and raise the front end, then place the jack stands, and lower. I can now raise the rear and place the stands.

I don't see the risk here.

 

[ruthrj]

The front wheels aren't locked? I'm not following here.

Once up on the ramps why would that matter? If I'm doing something that doesn't require the wheels to be off the ground and I'm only using the ramps, the parking brake is on. Yes, that's the rear wheels only but the front ain't going anywhere in this case.

If I need the wheels off the ground, I pull onto the ramps, set the parking brake, and then place my floor jack in position and raise the front end, then place the jack stands, and lower. I can now raise the rear and place the stands.

I don't see the risk here.

Over 10 years ago, I was a complete dummy and drove my CX-5 over a set of Rhino Ramps. I pressed the gas and the car crept halfway up the ramps. Movement stalled so I applied more pressure to the gas pedal. The ramps shot out from under the front wheels and I was immediately humbled.

1) I wasn’t applying the parking brake correctly.
2) I had the ramps on a slick concrete floor.
3) I didn’t see the risk and thought I knew what I was doing at the time XD

I’ve come a long way as a DIY’er over the last ten years. I would much prefer your wood ramps to Rhino ramps.