2013~2016: CX-5 DIY Control Arm Replacement Difficulty?

[Ninjachachi]

Hi all, I have a FWD 2015 CX5 with about 85,000 miles on it and everything runs great. My front lower control arms are super creaky over bumps (which sounds like a common issue) so I was hoping to replace them.

I’ve seen some mixed reviews, but how tough is this as a DIY job? I just replaced my shocks/struts and sway bar links - and that was all pretty easy for me, so I’m wondering how much more difficult doing the control arms would be? I have a decent impact and my car is totally rust free (living in the SW) so breaking free bolts shouldn’t be an issue.

 

[edmaz]

... and my car is totally rust free...

Just about every one of the numerous significant problems I've ever had as a DIYer has been related to rust, in one way or another. So IMO you should automatically be cleared for takeoff. However, I recommend taking a good look at the bushings before doing the work, because I believe it's very likely they're still in decent shape. That creaking could be caused by other things, and bad LCA bushings usually make some type of fairly loud clunking noise instead.

 

[Ninjachachi]

Just about every one of the numerous significant problems I've ever had as a DIYer has been related to rust, in one way or another. So IMO you should automatically be cleared for takeoff. However, I recommend taking a good look at the bushings before doing the work, because I believe it's very likely they're still in decent shape. That creaking could be caused by other things, and bad LCA bushings usually make some type of fairly loud clunking noise instead.

See this video for an example of the creaking I’m talking about. It seems like it’s definitely the control arm bushings creaking (I could be wrong) Creaking Control Arm

I also believe there was a TSB for creaking control arm bushings.

 

[edmaz]

You might try spraying the LCA bushings with a rubber-friendly lubricant. My favorite by far is Fluid Film, which is safe for rubber and also has an effervescent action, helps work the stuff into cracks. It takes some time and multiple application to work on bushings, so you'll need to have some patience with this process. If spraying the LCA bushings doesn't do anything, then try it on the sway bar bushings.

 

[RedBaron]

If you really have no rust, then the job is not too bad, certainly for the passenger side. The driver side is more problematic, due to the limited access to the front inner bolt on that side - if you have a lift, then no problem.
Here are my trials and tribulations on the passenger side (start here and read on): CX-5 Suspension control arm failure
... and the driver side: CX-5 Suspension control arm failure

 

[Ninjachachi]

You might try spraying the LCA bushings with a rubber-friendly lubricant. My favorite by far is Fluid Film, which is safe for rubber and also has an effervescent action, helps work the stuff into cracks. It takes some time and multiple application to work on bushings, so you'll need to have some patience with this process. If spraying the LCA bushings doesn't do anything, then try it on the sway bar bushings.

Yeah that's my initial plan of attack. I bought some silicone lube and I'll give both sides a few sprays. I've seen some people recommend AT 205 reseal, which supposedly helps recondition the rubber as well.

If you really have no rust, then the job is not too bad, certainly for the passenger side. The driver side is more problematic, due to the limited access to the front inner bolt on that side - if you have a lift, then no problem.
Here are my trials and tribulations on the passenger side (start here and read on): CX-5 Suspension control arm failure
... and the driver side: CX-5 Suspension control arm failure

You can check out the video I linked in one of my early replies to see the condition. There really isn't any noticeable rust. I was able to completely replace my shocks/struts on both sides without using a real impact driver, something I couldn't even imagine on my last, old, midwestern rusty car lol. That front inner bolt near the transmission pan looks like a major pain. But I saw someone loosen it using a swivel and extension for an impact driver. If I do decide to attempt this, I may go at that bolt first, and if I can't get it to budge I'll let the pros deal with it lol.

 

[Jmaz]

Yeah that's my initial plan of attack. I bought some silicone lube and I'll give both sides a few sprays. I've seen some people recommend AT 205 reseal, which supposedly helps recondition the rubber as well.

You can check out the video I linked in one of my early replies to see the condition. There really isn't any noticeable rust. I was able to completely replace my shocks/struts on both sides without using a real impact driver, something I couldn't even imagine on my last, old, midwestern rusty car lol. That front inner bolt near the transmission pan looks like a major pain. But I saw someone loosen it using a swivel and extension for an impact driver. If I do decide to attempt this, I may go at that bolt first, and if I can't get it to budge I'll let the pros deal with it lol.

A few months ago I purchased OEM Mazda control arms and had them installed by a local mechanic. My small impact wrench which has no problem loosening something torqued to 150-200 ft-lbs couldn't loosen one of the bottom facing bolts on the rear of the control arm. That bolt is torqued to a smaller value than the front horizontal bolt of the control arm which would require an extension and swivel joint that further reduces applied impact torque. So it went to somebody who does this stuff every day and has a lift and air tools. Besides, lacking both of those items, I get tired of working at ground level sometimes. BUT a starting point for me was if the ball joint pinch bolt could be loosened even though it wasn't rusted very much at all. And after removing the nut from the pinch bolt I discovered that my impact wrench couldn't even rotate the bolt. So another reason to take it to someone who can put a torch and air hammer to it if needed. On this subject, RedBaron has detailed his adventures with his 'pinch bolt from hell'.

So what I'm saying is you might want to try loosening the pinch bolt as a first step if you are considering doing the job yourself as well as having a beefy impact wrench.
Another thing. In addition to the control arms I purchased all new mounting bolts from Mazda. Those 8 bolts (3 per side + 1 pinch bolt/nut) were pricey @ around $50 total (probably not all needed but cheap insurance relative to the LCA, shipping and labor costs).
Those new bolts had a thin red coating on the threads which , although thinner than I've seen on other bolts, may have been a 'threadlocker'. Meaning that those control arm bolts might require substantially more loosening torque than their specified tightening torque.
Just detailing my approach and findings relative to installation of new LCA assemblies. Good luck in whatever you decide.

 

[rickrolled]

Hi all, I have a FWD 2015 CX5 with about 85,000 miles on it and everything runs great. My front lower control arms are super creaky over bumps (which sounds like a common issue) so I was hoping to replace them.

I’ve seen some mixed reviews, but how tough is this as a DIY job? I just replaced my shocks/struts and sway bar links - and that was all pretty easy for me, so I’m wondering how much more difficult doing the control arms would be? I have a decent impact and my car is totally rust free (living in the SW) so breaking free bolts shouldn’t be an issue.

Did you move forward with this ? Howd it go? facing same issue on my 2018 after a hard impact on curb ..bent the lower control arm and took out cv axle

 

[madar]

Just had mine flagged for both lower control arms with worn bushings at my favorite indie shop. Brought it in for a state inspection and wheel alignment. 86k miles. Total bill will be $1100. One of those things I guess.

 

[edmaz]

Just had mine flagged for both lower control arms with worn bushings at my favorite indie shop. Brought it in for a state inspection and wheel alignment. 86k miles. Total bill will be $1100. One of those things I guess.

Did they take you under the vehicle and show you what they had found? Not questioning or doubting it, just strictly a curiosity question about shop practices.

 

[Jmaz]

Just had mine flagged for both lower control arms with worn bushings at my favorite indie shop. Brought it in for a state inspection and wheel alignment. 86k miles. Total bill will be $1100. One of those things I guess.

If it's $1100 for just LCA replacement and alignment I'd really be questioning it. Somebody is getting rich if that's the case.

 

[madar]

Did they take you under the vehicle and show you what they had found? Not questioning or doubting it, just strictly a curiosity question about shop practices.

I trust these guys, been going there over 30 years. I've been hearing an occasional knocking noise the last few months and the last time I looked at the bushings they looked questionable. Ball joint seals are torn so it's time, in my book anyway.

If it's $1100 for just LCA replacement and alignment I'd really be questioning it. Somebody is getting rich if that's the case.

BOTH control arms replaced, alignment, state inspection and emissions testing. Nobody's getting rich. When's the last time you actually had work done in a garage? Everything is up these days.

 

[edmaz]

I trust these guys, been going there over 30 years. I've been hearing an occasional knocking noise the last few months and the last time I looked at the bushings they looked questionable. Ball joint seals are torn so it's time, in my book anyway.

I guess no shop would generally feel the need to show the issue to a long-term customer who doesn't ask. I don't go to repair shops myself, and am just curious about stuff like this.

 

[madar]

I guess no shop would generally feel the need to show the issue to a long-term customer who doesn't ask. I don't go to repair shops myself, and am just curious about stuff like this.

Yeah, I don't have a garage, so suspension work I generally don't do. I'll do shocks, brakes and some other light nonsense (plugs, oil changes, a timing belt or two). These guys have had a stellar rep for years. Still way cheaper than a dealer. I've had a few cars for many years longer than I've had this without having to do suspension work (Toyota Corolla for 17 years, Plymouth Voyager for 13 years) , and the guy at the shop says he sees quite a few front end problems for Mazda.

 

[Jmaz]

I trust these guys, been going there over 30 years. I've been hearing an occasional knocking noise the last few months and the last time I looked at the bushings they looked questionable. Ball joint seals are torn so it's time, in my book anyway.

BOTH control arms replaced, alignment, state inspection and emissions testing. Nobody's getting rich. When's the last time you actually had work done in a garage? Everything is up these days.

Even if each OEM Mazda LCA is $200 each (I paid ~$165 each for mine) that's $400 plus shipping/tax for say ~$475. Add in alignment for ~$125. That's $600. So ,emissions testing and state inspection (these can't be too expensive) sure leaves some pricey labor in the remaining $500.

 

[madar]

Even if each OEM Mazda LCA is $200 each (I paid ~$165 each for mine) that's $400 plus shipping/tax for say ~$475. Add in alignment for ~$125. That's $600. So ,emissions testing and state inspection (these can't be too expensive) sure leaves some pricey labor in the remaining $500.

Garages don't figure it the way you did. For example, one Mavis tire dealer broke it down this way, $214 per LCA, discounted from $315, labor and wheel alignment coming out to $875. State inspection and Emissions would be another $100. Then the state has to get its cut at 6% tax. I checked a few Mazda parts places, including MazdaSwag, a sight mentioned on here and the 2 lower control arms would be about $468. Mazda-Parts online was higher. I've seen them for considerably less at Rock Auto, I'm not too sure I'd trust the quality. I don't know where or when you got yours but it sounds like a steal nowadays if it's OEM. Labor rates are going through the roof if you want to pay for something done.

 

[Jmaz]

Garages don't figure it the way you did. For example, one Mavis tire dealer broke it down this way, $214 per LCA, discounted from $315, labor and wheel alignment coming out to $875. State inspection and Emissions would be another $100. Then the state has to get its cut at 6% tax. I checked a few Mazda parts places, including MazdaSwag, a sight mentioned on here and the 2 lower control arms would be about $468. Mazda-Parts online was higher. I've seen them for considerably less at Rock Auto, I'm not too sure I'd trust the quality. I don't know where or when you got yours but it sounds like a steal nowadays if it's OEM. Labor rates are going through the roof if you want to pay for something done.

Thanks for getting back to me and I stand corrected. I'm amazed that state inspections or emission testing could total $100. Those used to always be cheap so I guess I'm still in the dark ages. Checking the invoice, my LCA's were purchased 9-2-22 from MazdaSwag for $165.15 each. But the numbers were KD3534350s and KD3534300s, so different from yours. I went with OEM Mazda to avoid fitment and reliability problems. Some of the things I read about certain aftermarket LCA's were a turn-off no matter how cheap they were.
Well anyway, if it's needed then there's not much choice to have it done right. Like yourself, it's a job I wasn't easily able to do so I willingly paid a local mechanic to install them. At the same time he also installed new tie rod ends that I provided as the boots were torn just like the ball joint boots.
I will say that the front end tightened up nicely after this work was done. Gotta keep "my baby" in good shape.

 

[madar]

Thanks for getting back to me and I stand corrected. I'm amazed that state inspections or emission testing could total $100. Those used to always be cheap so I guess I'm still in the dark ages. Checking the invoice, my LCA's were purchased 9-2-22 from MazdaSwag for $165.15 each. But the numbers were KD3534350s and KD3534300s, so different from yours. I went with OEM Mazda to avoid fitment and reliability problems. Some of the things I read about certain aftermarket LCA's were a turn-off no matter how cheap they were.
Well anyway, if it's needed then there's not much choice to have it done right. Like yourself, it's a job I wasn't easily able to do so I willingly paid a local mechanic to install them. At the same time he also installed new tie rod ends that I provided as the boots were torn just like the ball joint boots.
I will say that the front end tightened up nicely after this work was done. Gotta keep "my baby" in good shape.

Car is in the shop today, hopefully he over quoted like he usually does. I also go with OEM when possible, particularly when it comes to suspension. Brakes gets a mix with aftermarket and OEM. I just replaced a front brake hose last week and it cost almost $45, dealer price with a 15% discount that I get. ! 'm quoting state inspection price from last year, don't know what it'll be this year. Funny thing is, inspection prices are different in different counties. State of Pa is actually considering doing away with SI, which I think is a mistake.

 

[yrwei52]

Did you move forward with this ? Howd it go? facing same issue on my 2018 after a hard impact on curb ..bent the lower control arm and took out cv axle

Wow, I just had a similar accident several weeks ago on my 2016 CX-5 GT AWD hitting the curb hard and bent the passenger side LCA at the ball joint area and damaged the ball joint too. Luckily the CV axle seemed fine. I got an OEM right side LCA and had the Brakes Plus to do the replacement and 4 wheel alignment. Usually I’d like to DIY for such task (not the alignment of course), but after I read @RedBaron‘s write-up replacing the LCA and decided to let the professional do it fast (they finished the whole job in 3 hours after I got the OEM LCA from my Mazda dealer, whereas it’d take me may be a couple of days only to replace the LCA) and wife can drive the CX-5 ASAP.

 

[yrwei52]

Thanks for getting back to me and I stand corrected. I'm amazed that state inspections or emission testing could total $100. Those used to always be cheap so I guess I'm still in the dark ages. Checking the invoice, my LCA's were purchased 9-2-22 from MazdaSwag for $165.15 each. But the numbers were KD3534350s and KD3534300s, so different from yours. I went with OEM Mazda to avoid fitment and reliability problems. Some of the things I read about certain aftermarket LCA's were a turn-off no matter how cheap they were.
Well anyway, if it's needed then there's not much choice to have it done right. Like yourself, it's a job I wasn't easily able to do so I willingly paid a local mechanic to install them. At the same time he also installed new tie rod ends that I provided as the boots were torn just like the ball joint boots.
I will say that the front end tightened up nicely after this work was done. Gotta keep "my baby" in good shape.

Apparently Mazda uses different front LCAs for your 2014 CX-5 and @madar‘s 2016.5 and my 2016 CX-5. The part numbers on your front LCAs are KD35-34-350S / KD35-34-300S and ours are KA0G-34-350J / KA0G-34-300J L / R.

For the price, I paid $285.23 for a right LCA which is 20% off from current MSRP $356.52 and it’s the same as @madar’s. You paid $165.15 each on 9/2/2022 from MazdaSwag and look at now how much higher they are from the same seller:

That’s a big 50% increase in 19 months! Talk about the inflation that we currently have!

And I agree that using Mazda OEM LCAs to avoid fitment and reliability problems. Aftermarket LCAs have one size to fit all CX-5 MYs which is a turn-off to me too.