Corksport MM Inserts. My first Mod!
- Thread starter mr_mazda329
- Start date
mr_mazda329
Member
- :
- 97 Mazda Miata; 09 CWP Mazdaspeed 3
Yes Sir.
CS MM inserts was my first mod. 30 min job and I removed the 3 bolts no problem without breaker bar. I did use a long handled socket bar and gave each a whack with a rubber malet.
I wish I had ordered mine in black instead of blue. The blue stand out and black would be hard to detect by the dealership.
I wish I had ordered mine in black instead of blue. The blue stand out and black would be hard to detect by the dealership.
canyondrive
Member
an Otaku installs CS MM insert and a Horn
I followed this forum and finally made the move. Man! I don't call this the easiest job - I'm not exactly a car mech type and I was not comfortable going underneath the car and trying really hard to get that 1st vertical bolt loose. I wish I paid someone to do this...
That being said I'm glad I went under...LOL
SO it was the engine/trans that was shaking all along!
Since the purchase I felt disconnected with the car when I go on roads and curves that are bumpy, it kind of reminded me of current Eclipse convertible, which yields a lot of body flex. I first thought bad suspension flexing or car body bouncing, so I thought this car is not as solid-built as reviews say.
I'm glad I didn't try to install coilovers or body reinforcements.
I think it's a major step to get close to cars like current Si. (in terms of direct feel handling, which I've owned), without the harshness.
Another thing I've noticed is that I don't have to account for timelags of gearshifts anymore (as others mentioned many times). I used to wait a millisecond before going from a gear to another, since the gears did not want to engage right away. Now that wait is gone, and I can learn to naturally shift faster, like any stick cars should be.
I used to feel the engine "roll" when I release the crutch on 1st, now the engine movement is unnoticeable and the power feels going straightly to the road.
No wonder why everyone raves about this mod. No noticeable bad vibration coming to the cabin and I bet Mazda techs can't tell about this mod from driving it. The car just feels natural and broken-in.
Well, as others say, if people have chance, they should do this 1st before anything. To me, setting up and buying ramps and tools took kind of all day but I'm glad I did it. Such tiny parts made quite a bit of improvement.
Oh and I installed a stable horn might as well. (looked up other threads for how-to's)
Which was another b**** to me to get the car's bracket bent right without the vice, but the sound worth it. No more "horn complex" when I'm pissed at cut-off people.
look how tiny the stock horn - are you kidding? for a 260 hp car?
I followed this forum and finally made the move. Man! I don't call this the easiest job - I'm not exactly a car mech type and I was not comfortable going underneath the car and trying really hard to get that 1st vertical bolt loose. I wish I paid someone to do this...
That being said I'm glad I went under...LOL
SO it was the engine/trans that was shaking all along!
Since the purchase I felt disconnected with the car when I go on roads and curves that are bumpy, it kind of reminded me of current Eclipse convertible, which yields a lot of body flex. I first thought bad suspension flexing or car body bouncing, so I thought this car is not as solid-built as reviews say.
I'm glad I didn't try to install coilovers or body reinforcements.
I think it's a major step to get close to cars like current Si. (in terms of direct feel handling, which I've owned), without the harshness.
Another thing I've noticed is that I don't have to account for timelags of gearshifts anymore (as others mentioned many times). I used to wait a millisecond before going from a gear to another, since the gears did not want to engage right away. Now that wait is gone, and I can learn to naturally shift faster, like any stick cars should be.
I used to feel the engine "roll" when I release the crutch on 1st, now the engine movement is unnoticeable and the power feels going straightly to the road.
No wonder why everyone raves about this mod. No noticeable bad vibration coming to the cabin and I bet Mazda techs can't tell about this mod from driving it. The car just feels natural and broken-in.
Well, as others say, if people have chance, they should do this 1st before anything. To me, setting up and buying ramps and tools took kind of all day but I'm glad I did it. Such tiny parts made quite a bit of improvement.
Oh and I installed a stable horn might as well. (looked up other threads for how-to's)
Which was another b**** to me to get the car's bracket bent right without the vice, but the sound worth it. No more "horn complex" when I'm pissed at cut-off people.
look how tiny the stock horn - are you kidding? for a 260 hp car?
Last edited:
mr_mazda329
Member
- :
- 97 Mazda Miata; 09 CWP Mazdaspeed 3
Glad you like the CS Mount inserts. That vertical Bolts is kinda tight, I had to put some ass into it also. Good stuff
guy_incognito
Member
- :
- SS MS3 GT
+1
I'm planning on keeping this car for at least another 4+ years, so I don't want something that would just need replacing in a year, otherwise I'd just go with the SU or CP-e mount.
So has anyone used a CS insert for 1+ year? Has anyone really had one "wear out" yet, or is it just speculation at this point?
guy_incognito
Member
- :
- SS MS3 GT
Interesting. So the jack method makes it easier to loosen the bolt? I had thought it was mainly to make it easier to slide the mount out.
No. After taking out the two bolts for the rear mount (one that mounts to the tranny, the other to the frame), you have to take the stock mount out. Unfortunately, there is not enough clearance to remove it, so you have two methods:
1) The scissor jack method pushes the engine forward enough to slip the stock mount out and put the new one in. Place the jack horizontally so it rests against the frame and pushes against the block above the oil pan.
2) Removing two of the three tranny bracket bolts and loosening the third. You don't need to remove all three because once the third is loosened, you can swing the bracket downward to create clearance.
I tried #2, couldn't get the third bolt loose.
Silver Ecstasy
Member
- :
- 11 MS3 Sport
I've heard of some people who said the inserts wore down after time. But to be honest, I think you just get used to it.
Add me to the list of CS owners, as I just ordered mine from PG! Can't wait to install and comment!
Add me to the list of CS owners, as I just ordered mine from PG! Can't wait to install and comment!
mr_mazda329
Member
- :
- 97 Mazda Miata; 09 CWP Mazdaspeed 3
Getting used to the mount is a good thing. I can actually drive the car better as it feels more solid.
I have a MZ3 and I was able to put a breaker bar on one of the bolts on the bracket that the mount attaches to. Just a pull on the bar moves the engine enough to slide the mount in and out. Actually, rocking the engine this way this way helped push the mount back in after installing the insert into the mount. It's a tight fit going back in... lol
nazgul350r
Member
- :
- 03 MSP & 08 CX-9 GT
I have a set for the Protege and they are great!
