Coolant Flush FL22

[kendel7]

I'm considering a coolant flush. I cannot do it myself. Will these oil change facilities, independent repair shops use the FL22 formula as Mazda recommends? Are the formulas made for Asian vehicles a suitable replacement, or do I have to visit a Mazda dealer to ensure a flush with FL22? Thanks!

 

[Conrad 16.5]

You need to ask these questions of the shop where you're considering having the work done.

Worst case, speak with the shop about suppling your own FL22.

 

[wlong01]

I'd check with the dealer first, see what they charge. I just had it done at the dealer last month and it was $78.97. Considering the coolant is about $30.00 a gallon it wasn't a bad price.

 

[Mazdiod2]

I'd check with the dealer first, see what they charge. I just had it done at the dealer last month and it was $78.97. Considering the coolant is about $30.00 a gallon it wasn't a bad price.

That's pretty good. I don't know about the 'flushing' part, but draining the coolant and refilling is pretty easy if you don't trust the mechanic to use the right coolant.
I don't think using a "Asian formula' type replacement coolant would hurt it as it seems a number of people do that without any problems.

 

[wlong01]

That's pretty good. I don't know about the 'flushing' part, but draining the coolant and refilling is pretty easy if you don't trust the mechanic to use the right coolant.
I don't think using a "Asian formula' type replacement coolant would hurt it as it seems a number of people do that without any problems.

I only wanted a drain and fill to replace the original coolant with the updated FL22 that protects better against corrosion. Since I only have apprx 50k and the car is 5 years old didn't see a need for a flush.
Coolant change is one thing I stay away from. In my younger days I went to replace the coolant on my Mustang, broke the drain plug on the bottom of the radiator, it was leaking and I drove it to a radiator shop. Along the way it must of overheated, ended up burning the valves. Had to have a complete valve job. Learned my lesson.

 

[Jmaz]

I only wanted a drain and fill to replace the original coolant with the updated FL22 that protects better against corrosion. Since I only have apprx 50k and the car is 5 years old didn't see a need for a flush.
Coolant change is one thing I stay away from. In my younger days I went to replace the coolant on my Mustang, broke the drain plug on the bottom of the radiator, it was leaking and I drove it to a radiator shop. Along the way it must of overheated, ended up burning the valves. Had to have a complete valve job. Learned my lesson.

To me, a coolant change IS a drain and fill (2X) versus a flush that uses a machine to force coolant through the engine under pressure. I've done the drain and fill (2X) twice now in a 10 year period. At 6 years the factory fill was absolutely clean and was replaced with Zerex Asian premix. Four years later at the 10 year mark the same was repeated. Clean again and no sediment in the drain pan. Used exactly 2 gallons each time. I changed the radiator hoses (and thermostat) also and there was no buildup in the original hoses after 10 years. So to me, the bottom line is that the system is clean and there is nothing to flush out.
This isn't the old days of cast iron blocks and old style coolant where rust would build up and back flushing was done to remove rust scale in the water jackets.

 

[Conrad 16.5]

I only wanted a drain and fill to replace the original coolant with the updated FL22 that protects better against corrosion. Since I only have apprx 50k and the car is 5 years old didn't see a need for a flush.
Coolant change is one thing I stay away from. In my younger days I went to replace the coolant on my Mustang, broke the drain plug on the bottom of the radiator, it was leaking and I drove it to a radiator shop. Along the way it must of overheated, ended up burning the valves. Had to have a complete valve job. Learned my lesson.

"updated FL22 that protects better against corrosion"

What updated FL22 are you talking about? I didn't realize that there was an improved version.

Or are you talking about the premix that has a higher concentration of coolant? 55/45 I believe.

 

[wlong01]

"updated FL22 that protects better against corrosion"

What updated FL22 are you talking about? I didn't realize that there was an improved version.

Or are you talking about the premix that has a higher concentration of coolant? 55/45 I believe.

There were some posts a couple months ago about heater core problems due to the OEM coolant that Mazda used back pre 2021 (I believe). I'll see if I can find the posts.

 

[skid00skid0]

Draining and filling the rad is literally the easiest maint you can do on a car.

You *can* do it. Do it! Dooooo it!

 

[wlong01]

"updated FL22 that protects better against corrosion"

What updated FL22 are you talking about? I didn't realize that there was an improved version.

Or are you talking about the premix that has a higher concentration of coolant? 55/45 I believe.

Here's one of the threads.

CX-5 heater core issues discussed on another Mazda forum​

It's pretty long but it does mention the 55/45 mix. What I've taken from some of the threads is the original OEM coolant didn't have enough corrosive agent and some heater cores were getting blocked resulting in expensive replacement. From what I read the premix provides better protection against corrosion. Confusing to say the least.