Ok, thanks Forzda and Mister... I meant I reset the sensor by unplugging the battery and holding my foot on the brakes til the brakelights went out... then drove around to let the MAF recalibrate...
Cobb AP Discussion Thread
- Thread starter djdanny5000
- Start date
Ok, thanks Forzda and Mister... I meant I reset the sensor by unplugging the battery and holding my foot on the brakes til the brakelights went out... then drove around to let the MAF recalibrate...
dougefresh_
Member
- :
- 2006 MS6 wwp
MAF cal if off, but not the end of the world... still within = +/- 7. It does need to be calibrated for sure. He is def in CL, and if you look at his APP it is pretty stable (i.e. cruising). Just an FYI, the ECU doesn't always target stoich in CL. For the most part, yes. But if you look at the CL and CL/Part throttle tables even more so, you'll see that the target AFRs become richer than 14.68 at higher loads and rpms.
I honestly think your KR is related to the Stage 1 map. I had the same issue when I first bought an AP a year ago and was running a stage 1 tune. I returned the AP a few days later because at the time I didn't have the time to study up on tuning, etc. I have seen this CL/part throttle KR at least a dozen times on msf with stage 1 tunes. I have never seen anyone with a stage 2 tune post/complain about. I don't know if it is because of more aggressive timing on stage 1 tunes vs. stage 2 tunes or what. I never bothered to look because I only bought my AP a few months ago when I was set up to run stage 2. With the same car, gas station, etc... I hardly get any KR anywhere with the stage 2 tune, and very little at WOT, but usually none.
I personally don't think the MAF cal is going to help your KR issue, but it definitely should be done regardless. Not sure what your other mods are besides the CAI? My suggestion would be too hook up a catted dp, and a cbe and move up to stage 2. If that's too much dough, hook up a TP like me, and a cbe. You can get both for like $500. Stage 1 tunes ftl imo.
My only mods are the COBB SF intake and the AP. My issue with moving up to Stage 2 is that I just bought the car used from Mazda, and I've got a 7 year extended warranty. I've read about the smoking issues with dp's, and I would rather keep something on the car that could be easily replaced for warranty work.
Seeing as I don't have ATR, would someone be willing to help me calibrate the MAF if I reset and get the calibration datalog? I don't get any knock whatsoever at WOT, but the car is leaner than I'm comfortable with.
Seeing as I don't have ATR, would someone be willing to help me calibrate the MAF if I reset and get the calibration datalog? I don't get any knock whatsoever at WOT, but the car is leaner than I'm comfortable with.
where does it sit under wot?
i run 11.59 as it sits now which is still too rich for me. 11.9 - 12 is my goal.
Yea, i'm TOO lean, even for no knock. Up until yesterday, I was running 11.23 - 11.59, but today I recorded this during a log. I going to baby it until I can get some help doing a maf cal. My logs have been real funky today.
no datalog for me but i am having the same issues. kinda corrected it a bit after my last cal.
my stft's stay around +/- 6% during light and part throttle.
my ltft is sitting at -3% for under 30g/s, then its to -6% for 30-99g/s, then it goes back to 0 for over 100.
afr is still 11.59
.dougefresh_
Member
- :
- 2006 MS6 wwp
Yeah, I have the same warranty... not sure what good it'll do me now! So you're smart for keeping it as is. The catted DP gets less smoke than the TP I have. I never used to smoke w/ the stock exhaust (3x after long idles), but started smoking a bit more w/ the 3" cbe. The TP made things MUCH worse, and I would smoke after idling for like 2 mins. Anytime you decrease backpressure, it can make the smoking worse. However, I recently upped my idle to 950rpms (in ATR), and I haven't smoked since. I'm still using 5W/30. I'll probably go w/ 5W/40 with my next oil change.
i've been watching for smoke since i added the dp and still none at all.
did log today. WOT in 3rd gear. 65 degrees today so kinda cool. man the car pulls hard. really feeling this dp now. changed throttle position for APP.
things look decent. little pattern i've noticed here and in other logs. around the 4k mark, you'll notice fuel pressure dips a tad then picks back up. whatever thats all about. but other than that things look good.
did log today. WOT in 3rd gear. 65 degrees today so kinda cool. man the car pulls hard. really feeling this dp now. changed throttle position for APP.
things look decent. little pattern i've noticed here and in other logs. around the 4k mark, you'll notice fuel pressure dips a tad then picks back up. whatever thats all about. but other than that things look good.
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this would be a good time for fuel pump internals if you don't have them already. In my case with the downpipe alone after 5 grand my fuel pressure was dropping down to the 1300's. 1400 seems a bit low for 4 grand at WOT. As long as your hitting AFR's. I hold now 1700-2000 all the way to red line.
Yeah, you might want to let the coolant and especially the oil get up to operating temp before beating on it. Your log shows coolant temp @ 183 which is way too cold. The oil lags way behind the coolant on heatup and cool down....
Also your MAF seems off a bit as the g/s are 20-30g/s low which may also explain the high positive LTFT.
i did let it warm up before i drove it and prolly drove 4-5 miles before i did that log. i figured that was sufficient since my oil temp gauge wasnt moving any.
so is that low at 2.3k to be 30-50 g/s? ltft is 2.96 withing the +/- 8 tolerance. they say in the book not to chase the ltft trying to zero them out goes you'll just make your self crazy.
i'm gonna log that maf calibration test and see what i looks like.
so is that low at 2.3k to be 30-50 g/s? ltft is 2.96 withing the +/- 8 tolerance. they say in the book not to chase the ltft trying to zero them out goes you'll just make your self crazy.
i'm gonna log that maf calibration test and see what i looks like.
hey guys, whats up with these step colder spark plugs. cobb says if you run anything more than stock boost you should use step colder spark plugs.
is this really neccasary? how would one know if this actually helps anything or even needs to do this in the first place? i want my car to be in peak performance condition but i dont want to spend money needlessly.
is this really neccasary? how would one know if this actually helps anything or even needs to do this in the first place? i want my car to be in peak performance condition but i dont want to spend money needlessly.
- :
- MazdaSpeed 6
grab these
http://www.protegegarage.com/1574-product-1574.html
before installing them make sure there gapped properly.. .28 or .26 i believe, Denso says they come pre gapped but its always good to check.
they will help and their definetly not a waste of money
http://www.protegegarage.com/1574-product-1574.html
before installing them make sure there gapped properly.. .28 or .26 i believe, Denso says they come pre gapped but its always good to check.
they will help and their definetly not a waste of money
dougefresh_
Member
- :
- 2006 MS6 wwp
grab these
http://www.protegegarage.com/1574-product-1574.html
before installing them make sure there gapped properly.. .28 or .26 i believe, Denso says they come pre gapped but its always good to check.
they will help and their definetly not a waste of money
+1 on the Denzos and the gapping. Definitely check/gap them properly... mine are at .28, but .26-.28 is what's recommended iirc. Many people have had them come out of the box and the gap varied quite a bit (.25 to .30 or something). Just remember to keep the stock plugs in case you decide to Seafoam the car at some point... you don't want to fowl the Denzos!! I also think you are supposed to replace them every 15K miles. Not sure how necessary that is, or when people replace them, but that's what is recommended.
You can save $15-20 buying the plugs on ebay or sometimes even Amazon has deals
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79535
There is someone on this forum who turned the idle up to 1000RPM and got rid of the smoking.
I think the best option for the health of your engine would be a catch can.
