Cobb AP Discussion Thread

haha yea bro the ignition was on, im not that much of a noob, but i don't blame you i've seen people do that. I checked the chords too, got 3 cobbs 1 for a 135i, STI, and one for the speed. tried all three, same issue. I'm switching from a standback to the cobb. the standback was hardwired to the ecu, but I ran the bypass and got the same thing. Dashhawk works with the OBDII, and the dealer was able to flash the ecu back to stock, but even after that still no success. Dealer offered to switch out the whole ecu for a new one. Might try that (got the extended factory warranty!).
 
humm, if the dealer will do it for free then why not. but it sounds unnecessary if the car operates fine.

go to the cobb forum and post up your info, im sure they will be able to go more in depth.
 
Got it taken care of. When CP-E flashed the ecu, they added two patches for the throttle and boost cut which were both encrypted. With both patches on the ecu, the AP couldn't flash it. Brought it to CPE and they took them off, now the AP works fine, just looking for a good map to use until my dyno tune.
 
This is copy n pasted from a list with stuff done to the car (somethings aren't mods like the dashhawk)
CP-E SRI
CP-E Catback Exhaust
Msd DashHawk
ProSport Boost Gauge
SU Engine Mount
TWM Performance Shift Knob & Bushings
RPM Street Springs
TurboSmart BOV
CPE DownPipe
PG Manifold
Saikou.Michi OCC
Denso Iridium Spark Plugs
PG Fuel Pump Internals
CPE Turbo Inlet & TowPlate License Frame
ACT Street Clutch Kit
Custom Front Mount Intercooler
Cobb AP
 
you sir only make 10 psi of boost... and holy eff with still 70% and up of waste gate duty cycle.
You sir have a problem.
 
you need to log your fuel trims and MAF. drop the speed to, we dont need that. Find a suitable safe place to do a full pull. Use 3rd gear, start somewhere between 2-3k. tip into the throttle to WOT by about 3.5k and lift around 6.2k

You got no knock, but also you got no boost. And the spark advance should be lower in those lower rpms. I would try a different map. First, inspect your car's vacuum lines and such.

Do you have a boost gauge? what does it say, where does it sit at idle? and full vacuum?
 
Thanks for the input guys, I'm new at this so anything helps. I didn't want to push it with a new map. I'll head out and give a good run after I check the vacuum lines. I don't have boost gauge (yet, another reason I didn't want to pull hard on her).
 
After running custom stage 2 maps and a few e-tuned maps, finally got my dyno tune done today. you think 300whp/340tq are good numbers for the stock turbo and block?
 
pretty good all around.

What was the dyno make/model/brand?
Correction factor?
Smoothing?

all of these can have a slight to drstic effect on what the dyno reads for numbers. A good, or should i say anyone can make a dyno read the numbers they wanna make it read.
 
All I remember was it was a Dynamite dynamometer. I asked the tuner (pretty cool guy who threw in a boost controller with the tune) how the dyno readings compared to other dynos, and he said it doesn't read as low as a mustang dyno, but its not a high reader either.
 
hey guys its been awhile since i have been on here... but i do have my ap now and love it. however im only running the stage 1+ cobbsri map when i think my mods could definitley support a better tune. ne one with similar mods to mine have a map that you think would better suit my car? or ne suggestions? my mods r in my signature.. also ne thin else i should do would be great :D thx guys
 
Tune is getting worse

So I took it out again for a harder run and the numbers are scaring me...What could be causing it...Checked the vacuum lines that I changed out when I installed the SRI and TIP. The line going from the TIP to the boost controller doesn't seem to fit right...Could this be the culprit? Thanks again.
View attachment Datalog1.xls
 
unplug your boost controller, plug back in the stock unit, and throw it away (mbc). The ms6 has its own controller solenoid built in and works much much better because you can adjust waste gate duty cycle based on rpm, you cant do that with an mbc.


DI Fuel Press. (PSI)
51979.7


WHAAAA!!! thats 5k more psi then i have ever seen before in my life from this fuel setup.


Knock Retard (degree)
47.25


your car is almost off lol.

What the hell did you do? nothing, well almost, matches a value it should have.
 
So I took it out again for a harder run and the numbers are scaring me...What could be causing it...Checked the vacuum lines that I changed out when I installed the SRI and TIP. The line going from the TIP to the boost controller doesn't seem to fit right...Could this be the culprit? Thanks again.
View attachment 184344

your AP has to be messed up because nothing in that log seems right. have you updated it at all? i'd contact cobb if you have and it's still doing that.
 
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